CK1999_400ex

another day of FREEKING RAIN here and about 40 deg. rain and cold for the last 2 days on top of the already flooding river ... so riding's gonna be bad for weeks ... maybe months ..

yup have several in my tool boxes ... i even still use them on a few on my rides and rides that i work on for people in my shop ...

belts are hard to know if they are worn ... with the cost of the belt not being to bad i would replace it and see ... now i have also seen some clutches do the same thing as that ... the little rollers and shims in them will start to ware and will not let the clutch engage all the way ...

i have the steel loops in the garage floor and also have an alarm system on the garage ... but i also have a nice little sneaky trick called a baby monitor that will alert me to any noise in the garage ... then its hot lead flying and bad guys dieing ... plus i keep my truck and van parked against the roll up garage door ....

what it all boils down to is cost ($$$ ) maintance and repair and upgrades... and the cost of it ...

i made a cooling system on my 400ex .. i used an engine compartment air circulation fan from a 1985 pontiac fiero ... i made a custom aluminum mounting bracket an an old plastic laundry detergent jug to make a shroud for it ... the oil ran alot cooler (20 to 50 degrees) in regular riding conditions ..

yes they are a great addition ... especially on sport quads with extended front suspension ...

if you have a non drilled rotor on the rear the mudd and debrees will not ware the pads as fast cause its not getting inbetween the rotor and pads as much as with a drilled rotor ....its a proven fact... i have raced and ridden with several racers and have a few friends that are mechanics for racers and on wet muddy tracks and sandy tracks they will chainge the rear rotors to solid non drilled so the pads will last longer durring that race ... drilled rotors dissapate heat better than non drilled ... but will cause brake pads to ware much faster because the holes in them will pick up debries and hold them in the holes and wear the pads much faster ... take this from a 40 year old man who has a small repair shop and has raced and has alot more experience than kids on this site ...

dealers do crazy things ... they will sell there name brand plugs at a cheaper rate just to sell the name and raise the price on the others to make up the difference (they cost the dealer the same ) ... i was talking to the local dealers son who runs the store/shop and he told me all kinds of crazy stuff they do just to make a buck...

if you have the rotors with holes drilled in them its going to wear out pads alot faster in the sand and mudd ...i chainged my rotors over to solid non drilled and brake pads lasted 3 to 4 times as long ... and i was riding about the same conditions as you ...

yes your rite ... just got off the phone with the local honda shop and they said the honda plugs are NGK .. and only have there name put on them but have the same part # as the regular NGK plugs ...

do you know who makes the honda plugs ? ill have to call my buddy at the local honda dealer and see if they know ...

here is what i usually do on a new atv that i buy .. i get on ebay and find a used air box lid ... then when i get it i drill 3/4 inch holes in it and get some little filter plugs at menards or another home care center ... you can just leave the holes open also ... that way you still have the original equipment lid and an extra that has the mod ...

i usually get my brake pads on ebay ... you can get a full set (front and rear) on there for what it costs for just 1 pair at the dealer or some online atv parts places ... and i have not had any problems with items i buy from ebay ...

the biggest issue with the polaris grinding is that the machine is usually idleing to hi and the primary clutch is grabbing the belt and turning the trans main shaft ... you can idle it down some and then try ..and they have a spring kit that allows it to rev more b4 the clutch will grab and is great for some riding conditions and styles ..

i think its money well spent ... a running machine is worth more than a dead 1 ... and i have a completly restored 1985 honda 110 that i did several years ago ... it looks better than when it was new ...

the belts cause friction on the clutches in the cvt system and then they need vents to help keep the clutch cooler ... it also allows ait to come in and actually helps cool the lower end ov the motor/block ... some atv's even have recessed areas in the lower parts of the motors that help kool the motor when the air flows through the vent system for the clutch ..

that hits most of the areas to check .. good thred ...

they fit different bikes better than others ... but ... you can have both with it ... but yours looks better than any i have seen yet ...

i use NGK and have sence the late 1980's when i was riding a honda 250R ...<<the good old days.. it was what came in it and i have tried other plugs but not with the luck of ngk.. they cost any ware from $3.29 to $5.00 depending on what riding toy they are for

i even got rid of my big money pits (harleys) this year and im still not very much ahead ... this economy is getting a little better but its still not what it was 4 or 5 years ago ...

JUST WONDERING ?

so im wanting to know what brand of plugs you prefer to use in all of your riding toys and a little info about why you use that brand .. and what do your plugs cost in your area ..

i have a very old garmin that i have used from time to time ... but usually dont take it with me riding unless we are going some ware that we have never been b4 and dont know the area ..

no problem... lol... i have 1 also for my kawasaki V Force 700 but havent got it on yet ... im hoping to in the comming winter months ....

if i can ever get enough money ahead i would love to come out for a week of riding...