Krazo

UPDATE replaced front diff seals around CV axles, new cv axles, new upper/lower ball joints, new wheel bearings, inside/outside seal around wheel bearing. Did both left and right side. first did left, then right. filled the front diff with 75-90, drove it in front yard and parked it in garage. Now the fun starts. I notice a small leak on the floor under the front diff, gear lube leaking out. it looks like its coming out thru the new seal where the cv axle comes out of the differential. AND its coming out both left and right. so i cleaned it up a bit with brake clean, and planned to refill the front diff so I can pinpoint exactly where its leaking from. Well, i decided to put a bit more gear oil in first, I take out the 'level' plug then the fill plug. I notice the gear oil is now draining out the level plug. Apparently I must have really overfilled it when I first wrapped up all that work. SO, I decided to let it drain out the 'Level' plug hole until its done. This is where I've stopped work. I'm thinking that just maybe overfilling it caused too much pressure inside and thus it leaked out. now that the gear oil level has dropped it where it should be, I'm hoping it will stop leaking. I've got all the plugs back in and i'll drive it a bit tomorrow morning, park it and leave clean cardboard underneath to see if it leaks anything. However I'm concerned that just maybe the aftermarket cv axles dont mate well with the suzuki brand front diff seals and leave some type of small enough gap for the gear oil to leak out. Pics to come of one cv axle where its mating to front diff. you can see the gear oil about to drip off. Any thoughts from the experts here?

to each his own. not my place to judge another. that said, while i certainly dont understand the drive of the rat race, I'm sure in some ways I'm just as guilty of pushing it further.

Any thoughts on cheap eBay brake pads? Looking at this set for $17 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-sintered-brake-pads-For-SUZUKI-LT-A-700-Kingquad-2005-2006-2007-/183736227820?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Yeah that’s where I’m at. Work at a desk for a living but enjoy tinkering with stuff like this for fun. Fortunately my FIL is a retired diesel mechanic who has been a great resource. And it’s always good to find a knowledgeable community like this for more specific help.

Thanks Mech. Appreciate all your feedback. I’m beginning to think your the only one on this forum.

ok, finally starting to get some parts in and about ready to finish the front cv axle replacements. but ive got a question. - the front diff fluid is 75-90 gear oil. I also replaced the wheel bearing which is pre-packed with who knows what kind of grease ( id assume some hi-temp wheel bearing grease but ...) Should I grease both ends of the CV Axle when I install? ive got some stalube moly-graph EP that I would think should be fine for this in both places. While I wouldnt just lather up the end of the cv axle, i am somewhat nervous about the grease mixing in with the gear oil and even the other grease in teh wheel bearing. I'm not gonna buy the suzuki special type of grease. I'm sure its a basic MP. but the manual doesnt say anything about greasing the ends of the axle when replacing. I cant imagine NOT greasing these ends, that just seems like asking for a failure of some kind. any thoughts? (really just looking for a "yeah thats what i did and it worked fine")

seals on differential, hub has a sealed bearing. seals are ordered, nothing ever in stock should be here in 3-5 days. Anyone have experience with Caltric atv parts? ordered a set of ball joints from them. cheap price, just hope their not cheap parts. looking at front brake parts from them as well. https://caltric.com/

Front cv axles are in. I plan to start replace these ASAP. However it just hit me, I didn’t get any seals for the differential or the hub. Are there seals I should replace? Anyone got a part number? Also now thinking maybe I should check ball joints while I’m in there.

$60 seems reasonable. The stock Suzuki part was like $200 on partzilla. maybe cheaper other places online or at local dealer. Today I did start it up and let it idle for a while as I worked in the garage. no issues what so ever. it took a while, but the fan eventually kicked on so I would assume it got warm enough for the thermostat to open up and let the antifreeze to flow. no leaks anywhere. Id like to think the cleaning up the radiator kept it cooler for longer, preventing the fan from kicking on every other min. I think the fan only came on 2 or 3 times in a matter of 15 min. my uncle was here this weekend and he suggested I test the thermostat before install. Not a bad idea, but id never done it before. I didn't. But I did put the old one in some near boiling water and didn't notice anything happen, like it opening up. Anyone ever test a thermostat?

Great point. Never thought about possibility it could be injector, I've primarily worked on carbureted motors. Was that a difficult install, putting a new one in? Where did you get it and what brand did you go with? the suzuki oe part is significantly more than the aftermarket ones i'm seeing. Just put the thermostat in today but haven't had a chance to ride it. I've also got new front cv axles coming in, suppose to be here tomorrow and will put those in soon as I can. With cleaning the radiator and replacing thermostat, if that doesn't keep it running cool, I'll look into the possibility of new injector but hoping that's not the issue.

Thanks for the heads up on the orientation of the thermostat. It does have a rubber gasket fitted around it. I also see the hole on one side of the thermostat. i'll make sure it goes in correctly. havent seen the loctite gasketmaker. i'll have to take a look. always used RTV on vehicles, but yes have to be careful how you use it, can easiily cause problems if your not careful.

I ended up getting some green 50/50 and putting it in. Used duck tape over the hole In the air filter line. Started it up and let it run for 15min. Fan never kicked on so not sure the thermostat opened up either. It was cold out. But it’s filled up. Hope the new CV axles are here Monday along with the thermostat and air cleaner piece. I’m ready to get all these new parts in a this thing put back together. You know if there’s a gasket for the t-stat housing? Don’t see one in the service manual. Seems odd. If no gasket, ad it looks like metal on metal, what about RTV for a gasket?

Cold front coming in with temps expected to be 15-20*F for next few days. Well below freezing. Don’t want to use water in those conditions. Vehicle is in my garage which shouldn’t freeze but …. Maybe I’ll just go get some green antifreeze and fill it. Rather not fix a blown head gasket

coolant was the standard green color. I assume that is ethylene glycol based. I put the rad back together and got it in. ready to pour fluid in but I dont have any distilled water. i'll pick some up tomorrow. I should also be able to pick up the t-stat and other air tube piece I need. I really dont want to run the motor without replacing, repairing the hole in teh air hose. I suppose duct tape would be a short term solution. I also dont want to fill the rad with coolant until have the air hose repaired and t-stat replaced. so, maybe I shouldve waited to do all this at once. but hard to find the time to complete all jobs at the same time. anyway you make great points about gaskets drying out and the need to get water back in the system. hopefully it'll happen sooner rather than later.

Do you mean to put the Rad back on and fill the whole system up with water? or just fill up the Rad and plug the holes?

OK, so I called Lucas Oil and verified with them that the Universal Hydraulic & Transmission Fluid is their equivalent to the mobil424. I used that and changed the final gear oil. In doing all this maintenance, I found the left front CV axle boot at the wheel was off the joint, grease going everywhere, big mess. apparently been like this a while and I just noticed. SO, I ordered a set of CV axles for the front. The ones on their are original. I thought about buying the kit to rebuild/repair the boot and replace the joint but for all the work involved, I decided to just bite the bullet and buy new axles for left and right front. should also mention I work for oreilly auto and get a good discount on parts. just under $200 for the set. also getting brake pads ($6 per side @ my cost) for the front too. might as well while ive got the wheels off considering I just got this machine and it'll be nice to know these things are taken care of. so all these parts had to be special ordered and should be in sometime early next week. Also found a connector in the cooling duct, aka a soft rubber piece in the filtered air line to the motor, has a 2" diameter hole in it and the rubber is cracking its so old. so I ordered that part and should be able to pick it up when I get the new T-stat. In the meantime, since I am already suspect of the cooling system, i was checking out the radiator and saw its all clogged up where the fan sucks air through. So i went ahead and drained it since i'll be changing the T-Stat. Then pulled the radiator off to clean it up. Tried compressed air and only got so far with that. Light brushing got some more dirt out but still clogged pretty good. decided it was time to pressure wash it. Didnt take long with that and this thing is now free and clear of all dirt and debris. fins still in great shape, can easily see through the fins and this looks almost new. flushed out the inside with hose. tomorrow or sometime next week i'll hook it all back up with the new T-stat and flush water thru the system a few times before I refill with antifreeze.

Thanks for tip on the cooling system. I'll def give that a try. Changed spark plug and also got the front diff. oil changed today. held off on the coolant flush until i can get a t-stat. a little warmer weather would be nice too if I'm going to get the hose out and flush the system. I also looked into the rear diff. and it calls for Mobil Fluid 424. I'm not familiar with this fluid. a quick search looks like its just basic tractor fluid. Most are conventional and come in 5gal buckets. I need 30 ounces. I was wanting to use synthetic fluids in this machine. Any thoughts on a Mobil Fluid 424 synthetic alternative? I found an Amsoil Syn Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission oil sold in quarts. Also saw Lucas UNIVERSAL HYDRAULIC & TRANSMISSION FLUID but its not synthetic. Also, Any idea what this open screw hole is for? its on driver side handle bar. mirror maybe? im skeptical on that but not sure what else.

thats not too far, i'm in SW MO. you familiar with Shawnee NF? Theres a group that does an annual squirrel hunt over there in late September. never been but looks appealing. can you ride on quads on Shawnee?

I have looked in that manual for the fluid specs. However it wasnt as specific as I hoped. it said a 90wt hypoid gear oil for the front diff. well all gear oils at Oreilly are multi weight 75-90, 80-90 etc. and I dont recall any saying hypoid on them. However I would assume hypoid is pretty standard for all gear oils sold, whatever hypoid is, and a multi-weight gear oil should be fine. as for the coolant, the manual just says use any coolant that is compatible with aluminum radiator. well, thats any (99%) coolant out on the market today. green, yellow, orange should all work by those standards. has green in now, id rather use yellow. But Mech you have a good idea, just flush it a few times with water and that should remove 99% of coolant in there. I should be able to switch it just fine. I did call the local Suzuki dealer and asked a few of these questions. the guy said there is a screw on the water pump which I can remove and it will help drain the coolant from there as well. any of you familiar with that? Mech, have you changed the T-stat in these? easy to access? i hadnt thought of that but makes sense and if its easy to get to, why not while im in there. yesterday was first time i really had this thing out. it was cold, snow on the ground, pulling my son on a sled. and the I could hear the fan kick on, a little more regularly than I thought it should have given it was 35 degrees outside. but im assuming that means it was operating as it should have.

new to atv's. just got this 05 KQ 700. seems in good shape, has 3500 miles and about 350 hours. but its dusty/dirty as heck, looks like it sat in loafing shed for years. found mouse nest when i changed the oil. anyway, like i said, just got it, seems to run fine but I want to do some general maintenance as I'm not sure what that was like with previous owner. so far, I've only changed the air filter, put in a new K&N, it was the ONLY option I found at local O'Reilly's. Changed oil and filter and also put in a new battery. Next up is spark plug, front differential and drain/refill radiator. Is there a good way to flush the radiator and block to get the existing coolant out? draining will only get so much out. But the main question I have is what fluids are best to use in the front differential and the radiator? for the front diff, I was just going to use some 75-90 synthetic gear oil, prob Luca. any issues with something like that? As for the coolant, I'm pretty sure its green in there now. If I cant flush the system, I'll prob just go with green since I dont want to mix colors. But id rather use yellow or orange. However is there really a manufacturer preferred coolant?

welcome mellephants. im new here as well. also joined for manual, and the info. 10 posts not too hard to hit. I got the manual for mine here. however mine is searchable. But its grainy and has some sections blacked out, i'm assuming it was just bad scanning on the part of whoever scanned the orig. document. anyhow... I ended up buying a used manual on ebay for like $20. several on there, most have a buy it now price or best offer. so i offered a few $20 and one took it. didnt mean to diverge from the topic but i'm no help there.

When i think of differential gear oil, id think 75-90 or 80-90 gear oil. not sure ive seen a straight 90. not sure id use a grease in there. that doesnt sound right.

it came locally, only 25 min away. listed on fb marketplace for 3500, i paid 3200. came with owners manual and original tool kit. prev owner said he bought from a friend of his who ran an auction co and they picked up from someone cleaning out everything. something like 3500 miles. i'm excited to ride, never really had one before.

new here as well. I got an 05 zuki king quad 700. came off a farm where it was used to check cattle for last 10 years. prior to that not sure how much use it got but couldnt have been much. everything seems in good shape. I parked it in the garage and been trying to find the time to do a tune up; air filter, oil & filter change, spark plug. oh it needs a new battery too. got all this picked up at the local oreillys but just cant find time to work on it yet. after this stuff, i'd like to tackle the differentials and brakes. previous owner didnt do anything besides change the oil yearly.

Youtube is a great resource. always nice to watch, rewind, watch again.