Charlesawest936

Good morning, I'm really at the end of the rope with this bike. If someone can give me any other ideas I'd really appreciate it. I have a Yamaha Moto 4 350cc 2x4 that I got for my step daughter and I can not get this thing to fire except for 1x each time I either turn the key off or if I let it sit a few mins in between trying to start it. I'm not exactly sure what year it is because I haven't been able to find the vin number yet on it. What iv done so far is, checked ohms on the stator and all 3 white wires go to .001 no connection to ground like it shouldn't. My cdi is new and getting the same results with the old 1 as well. On the cdi iv got 2 plugs and 3 single wires. The singles are orange that goes to the coil which is a known good coil because I took it off of my Kodiak that runs and put the old coil back on the Kodiak which still runs. There's a single red wire and brown wire which goes to the source coil on the stator when checking ohms on it it shows .303 ohm's the blue and white wires for 1 of the pick up coils shows .199 ohms and the other pick up coil green and yellow wires shows .200 ohms so all are within factory specs. Iv changed the ignition switch and the neutral light does come on like it should but I'm still only getting the single spark when you first try starting the bike. Any ideas? Oh iv also changed the rectifier regulator also. And when checking for spark I'm putting the plug wire close to the head bolt without the plug or cap on the wire

No it definitely won't hurt any ideas right now are good lol. I honestly haven't messed with the pull rope lately iv just been starting it with the electric start although I am concerned about that 1 way bearing being engaged the whole time the bike is running and it eventually messing something up

I remember after pulling it apart the 3rd time I used a digital mic to measure the starter Idle gear hub and made sure that it was perfectly round and not out of shape or anything else I can't remember the exact measurement right now but I know the mic didn't change change but maybe a decimal point anywhere on the hub otherwise I would've wanted to change it. Well iv got the motor back together right now and it starts up just fine and I can kill it and every once in awhile the pull rope will rotate the starter with it but if I start it with the button I sometimes get lucky and it frees up so that the next time I try pulling the rope it's free and works as it should but keeps repeating itself so I'm going to just have to try getting another bearing and idle gear and see what it does

Hello QuadCrazy guys and gals. Iv got a 2007 Kodiak 450 that's iv been trying to get running again after having to split the case so I could change a few of the transmission gears since the previous owner over did it and broke teeth off of 3 different gears. Anyways iv got the motor put back together and put back on the frame and I keep having problems with the one way bearing on the starter Idle gear locking up and causing the starter to spin with the motor. Now I am able to pull the rotor/flywheel off and then I have to pry the one way bearing off of the idle gear after this happens. But I am able to reset the bearing and put the starter gear on and I then put the keyway on it then I slide the rotor with the one way bearing bolted to it on as far as I can and I lock down the rotor by holding it and tightening it down. At this point all is great I'm able to rotate the crank by hand counter clockwise and the starter and idle gear are free like it's supposed to be and if I reach back behind the rotor and spin the idle gear counter clockwise it engages and spins the crank like it's supposed to. But after hitting it with the starter a couple times it locks up again. I'm pulling my hair out with this damn thing. Before I split the case to fix the transmission it didn't have any starter related issues. Also the starter Idle gear hub where the one way bearing rides doesn't look bad or anything same as the bearing it looks fine as well. Any ideas before I have to order a new bearing and idle gear? Oh also if I put it together and only use the pull rope of course it doesn't lock up, only does it after a few times of the starter being used.

I'm putting the case half's back together on my 07 Kodiak can anyone please give me the torque specs for it?

Hey guys iv kinda gotten myself into a pickle here and hopefully someone that really knows about these kodiaks will chim in please. Anyways whats going on is iv got a Kodiak 450 that was stuck in gear when i bought the bike. Stuck in gear meaning that the transmission was locked up. The motor still ran good it just wouldnt move. So i pulled the engine and split the case and found that 3 gears had teeth broken off of them. And might i add, the metal that these gears are made of is complete trash! Well at least the metal that my original gears are made of are but the gear-set that i ordered the metal looks to be made of a completely different material. Not sure if this is the correct word for it but i wanna say "Pot metal" is what im thinking iv heard that be called before it has like air bubbles throughout the whole thing it looks like. Anyways my issue is that the gearset that i ordered looks almost identical all except 2 of the gears the ones that the chain goes on which drives the output shaft that runs the middle drive gear so i found a chain thats supposed to be for a kodiak 400 since those are what gears i bought that didnt come with the chain. I was just assuming that the good chain that i had was going to fit the new gears. Does anyone know anything about the transmissions in these bikes that wouldnt mind helping me out? The 400 chain should be here in the next couple days when i get it ill let yall know if it ended up fitting the gears i have or not

Not a problem bud i just got the gears in that i ordered and 2 of them are different so hopefully i can get it figured out.

What i would do is either pull the cover and pull the belt off of it and run it just to make sure that the noise is actually coming from the clutch itself. If the noise is still there id pull the clutch and check out the rollers in it. And no sir theres not a special tool thats needed to remove that clutch its just a 22mm socket and then it pulls right off.

Well i ended up finding the problem the other day. After getting the case split open finally i found 3 different gears that have teeth broken off of them. Everything else looks good. I was lucky and was able to find someone on ebay that was selling the complete transmission gear-set seriously for $40 with free shipping. So i ordered it and the complete engine gasket set so that i can get it put back together

Im fixing to be splitting the case on my 07 kodiac 450 to see what is binding up inside. Are there anything special that i should look for other than the low gear being stuck on its shaft

Ill try taking the belt off but i finally got the bike running today and it runs really good i did notice that with it idling its just fine but if you rev it up a bit it starts to make a clunking sound almost like its trying to go into gear and it doesnt matter where the shifter is i cant get it into low gear though. And as far as the front diff goes i havent been able to turn the front driveshaft but the bike will roll because i have the rear diff removed.

Hello im really needing some advice on where to start for the problem im having. I know that iv got to pull the motor and split the case but is there something i should be looking for? Im guessing its not a very common issue with these bikes because i cant find a single thing online about anyone else talking about it. Anyways my issue is i bought a 2007 Kodiak 450 from a friend whom said he was hauling a** on it down the road and all of a sudden the back wheels locked up. He pulled the rear diff and it seems to be ok i cant spin the rear prop shaft at all no matter where the shifter is.