Gwbarm

Good job! Glad to hear you got it running for minimal cost.

I agree with the Honda 250 my father has one, has had it about 30 years, i think its a four trax not 4 wheel drive its an 87 model, engine bulletproof , starter not so much, and its not the starter itself it the gears, they break and get into the stator expensive repair, I think its happened 3 times since he has had it. It always makes a clunk sound when starting even with new gears and starter, never any carb problems or running problems. The only thing, I never liked the way Hondas reverse switch worked, push the plastic button and pull the brake lever at the same time. It always worked I just never liked it.

Did a little more research, No ATV can be operated on public roads in the state of miss. Requirements to get a title. My state does not require ATV to be titled, but this is what's involved. Most states handle ATV titling and registration via the state motor vehicle agency. In general, most states require some basic information for these transactions: A certificate of title or manufacturer's statement of origin signed over to you. A signed application for title. An ATV bill of sale. Proof of vehicle identification number (VIN). A notarized lien release, if applicable. Proof of liability insurance. An application fee.

One other thing I thought was interesting. I went online to get a Bill of Sale for ATV. The one you are supposed to use in my state, for ATV, is personal property Bill of Sale. No place for buyers address sellers address or Vin #. Interesting they do not fall under the motor vehicle Bill of Sale like motorcycles. I still don't think iv gotten a correct answer from DMV she seemed like a deer in headlights when I asked the question.

Sound like the engine is not locked up I would squirt some oil down in the cylinder to make sure rings are well lubricated before I turn it over much. I would pull the drain plug not completely at first just to see if any water comes out then pull it all the way out and let all the oil drain out look at it to see if its milky looking, and change the oil. From the photo it appears the master cylinder needs replacing you can take it all apart clean it and try soaking the rubber parts in brake fluid but in my experience it won't come back. As far as electrical look for corrosion on connectors and fuse box and check the ground. Hope this helps a little, 25 years is a long time to sit out in the weather.

Sounds like you on the right track if I had done all that you have done with no change, CDI would be what I would look at next , electronics kill a lot of older bikes because of cost to replace. Maybe try freezing it next, iv done that to revive old battery sometimes it works but most time it doesn't.

Thats the way it works here. In order to get title you have to buy the first year tag not an option. You can let it expire the next year and never buy another but if you ever want it tagged again you have to pay back taxes.

This is in my state Mississippi may not be that way everywhere, but here 50 dollar title fee plus tag not sure how much that is plus insurance and i guess certificate of Authenticity comes from the manufacturer Honda, yamaha etc. Not even sure how to go about getting that.

Went to DMV today to see what's involved in getting a title, you have to have old title to get new title, or certificate of origin from manufacturer and proof of insurance.

It seems every ATV i look at to buy used has no title, does everyone loose there title, or do they change hands so often the title is lost in the shuffle. The ones that do have titles are triple the price. I am new to buying used quads is this pretty standard procedure. I know all quads are good and tough but thought it might be good to hear opinions as to what member think is the best, from your experiences.

I like Berryman Chemtool get it at any autoparts store and Even walmart they make it in a spray also, not sure if Walmart has that, but any carb cleaner will do, minimal exposure to the vacuum diaphragm on the slides and rubber parts.

I would start by taking the bowl off and cleaning them carefully taking them apart and you may get by without parts.

Yes look up rebuild kit by your bikes vin #. They look like they have been into before.

What bike is this? 2 cylinder. I would keep the parts from each carb separate there may be small differences in castings. May not make any difference but that is what I do.

It seems every ATV i look at to buy used has no title, does everyone loose there title, or do they change hands so often the title is lost in the shuffle. The ones that do have titles are triple the price. I am new to buying used quads is this pretty standard procedure.

Do you mean the float valve in the carb didn't shut off the gas, if so you could drop the carb bowl and try cleaning the needle and seat.

Thanks for the response. Those were my thoughts exactly, but so far, buying on marketplace, they are never quite as good as the seller says, but usually I buy them cheap enough that I can get them running and be ok, if all the parts are there.

I am looking at a 2001 Kodiak 400 on marketplace haven't bought it yet, he says it has no spark but engine turns over and wants 500.00 for it . Is that a reasonable price ? Im a little skeptical . In my area these older bikes are selling in running condition 2500 -3000. Seems high for a 20 year old quad

Thanks ! They may be all close to the same wiring. The manual I downloaded from this site said 2000 big bear/ Kodiak maybe the kodiak is water cooled.

Thanks! I did download the 2000 big bear, kodiak manual it was showing a water cooled engine mine is not water-cooled so that may not be the right manual. I thought all big bears were air cooled. It may not make a difference if all the wiring and components are the same.

How do you know which model Big Bear you have, I didn't know there were so many different models in 2000, I think mine is aYFM400FWN the only reason I think that is from a vin# internet search before I found this forum. Thanks!

If your fuel tap has on, off and reserve not vacuum operated, if it has a prime setting it does. My 01 big bear does not have one but it may have been changed, they are troublesome, my 04 eider does have one. I have several motorcycles from mid 70s that do have them so they have been around a while.

Thats great information I hadn't thought of that . Thanks!

Thanks so much for your help I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I did take the control cable off from the stator side, that cable goes to the fender mount shift, hi, lo, and reverse. The cable is free, so something tight inside the cover, but it does move from end to end, just no clicks or stops to designate what gear you are in. My game plan before I pull the engine is to pull that cover see what's going on in there, the flywheel magnets have a reputation for coming loose . It does run but not for very long, typical symptom of missing magnets. If no luck there, pull the clutch cover there is a little spring on the gear change mechanism that can break. I can do these things without pulling the engine, I think. I did put a magnet down the oil checking hole didn't pull out any metal pieces, so I thought that was a good sign. I really hope I don't have to pull the engine im either getting older or the engines are getting heavier. Thanks again for your help!

Thank for the reply it does have selectable 4 wheel drive and the front wheels are not locked up but don't know if it actually works. I did look at a repair manual didn't really help with diagnosing the problem other than transmission not functioning solution fix transmission, but it is very good at showing how to take things apart and put back together, when I can I will download the one here and see if its better. The eiger doesn't seem to be as popular as some of the other Suzukis but I've been impressed with it so far with all the abuse its had the steering is still tight like new. Im afraid im going to have to pull the engine and go into the trnsmission.