Gwbarm

Nice looking little Quad I would mix 2 stroke oil at 40 to 1 and maybe clean the plug, they are bad to get oil fowled.

Thanks appreciate the response haven't used Rotella but have heard good thing about it.

I just put one on a Suzuki that I just bought, made by Labworks only one with 5 stars, after I bought it I looked closer and it only had 1 rating so 1 guy really liked it. I was initially going to rebuild my mikuni but when I got it off I didn't have a mikuni it had no name on it so I assume its aftermarket. The good thing about the Labworks is it came with new choke valve, which I needed, mine was stripped out not even attached to old carb, and all hoses, just put on and good to go. At first it wouldn't start then I figured out I had petcock issues put it on prime and runs fine. Haven't got it to idle correctly yet and can't find a mixture adjustment screw. May have to adjust throttle cable a bit. But is is running now, what a powerful beast.

Just went to get gas, premium non ethanol is not available at the station that has it, I haven't bought any non ethanol since the gas increase, even though its gone back down ethanol fuel is 3.09 gallon here and non ethanol is 4.09 gallon.

I also use non-ethanol fuel but not the premium just regular, no reason other than the book recommended 87 octane. I don't use fuel stabilizers, never thought they helped that much. The only additive iv ever used is Berryman Chemtool it works great for keeping carbs clean.

That sounds like your clutch is not engaging or transmission issues.

Just a poll to see what brand and type of oil others are using in their ATVs

Good choice just ride it, keep some extra plugs and wrench in your tool box so you don't get stranded and get some RPMs up and see if it starts cutting out, best way to diagnose is ride, of course if it starts making loud clanking noises stop.

Mysterious that it only happened after you used the trickle charger, I might check the fuses sometimes they get corroded and loose.

Nothing like feeling the wind in your face and the rumble under your seat.

Not really that familiar with the 96, is it foot shift or hand shift, semi auto or auto. If its auto I would check the shift cable if it is semi- auto I would check to make sure the cir clip is still in place on the shift shaft. Those are the easy things to try first.

If they turn a little i wouldn't think the transmission is locked, may the output bearings are a little corroded and stiff, brakes could also be corroded causing it hard to turn but not completely seized.

Synthetic oills burn differently from mineral oils, might explain no smoke. I run mineral oils in all my ATVs and motorcycles that are air cooled. I do run synthetics in all my automobiles .

Recommended oil for Kodiak 400 Yamalube 10W40 or equivalent with API SJ rating.

Actually you have to have title and bill of sale to register it in my area . But registration is not required, it makes no sense, I recently found out that the bill of sale to use for ATV is personal property bill of sale of sale not motor vehicle bill of sale ,no where to put vin # or anything identifying the ATV. I just wanted to get a title in my name probably don't even need it at all.

Thanks I appreciate the response, I've been looking for a new wiring harness the one I got with the bike is so chopped up, I may just rewire it myself, I've been trying to figure out how to power it up from the battery to see if it runs might have bad cdi or other problems .

If you didn't see any smoke you might have a good tight engine that hasn't been abused, the Kodiaks are water cooled so should run cooler than air cooled engine, less wear.

When I see plug that looks like that I think it is flooding, but since you put a new carb on it with no change I would suspect it was not getting a hot enough spark which would point to the cdi, and it also sound like the timing isn't advancing enough to keep up with the increase in throttle which would also point to cdi. It could be burning some oil but I don't think that's your problem, the plug looks sutty black and not shiny black. When its running is the smoke black or blue.

I don't know how far you have it tore down but I would try really hard to get it unstuck if you don't break a ring it usually will come back, now if its seized from running with no oil that's a different story you can use a bore scope to find that out

Agreed parts have gotten so expensive there aren't cheap fixes anymore. Around here parts bikes are going for around 500.00 im talking about complete junkers so the parts are well used, end up costing more than anticipated, been there, done that.

Good advise mech. I have glued them back on before with JB weld, you just have to really roughen the surface ,I did it just for a quick fix on an old beater that I didn't want to spend a lot of money on still holding a year later but I don't really trust it.

Not really familiar with the Coleman but Belts do stretch a bit over time but there should be an adjustment for that.

Glad to see so many young people learning to restore these older bikes, and putting them back on the trails.

Mech, that is the best explanation of brake fluid and shoe diagnostics I have ever heard, thanks for the info.

I tried using a Garmin once years ago and it didn't seem really accurate maybe moving too slowly