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Thats interesting in my state you can register it with a title they will take your money but you still can't ride it on the road legally. They said to be road worthy had to have DOT approved tires and seat belt so asked why do I not need a seat belt on my motorcycle he said because it has 2 wheels if it has 4 it needs a seat belt that's crazy. I think they make stuff up as they go along.

Its very possible aftermarket switch is not wired the same you might switch some wires around and find the right circuit

That looks like the choke plunger it screws in, mine was plastic so it didn't damage carb threads, it came with the new carb that I ordered, I doubt it comes with a kit so you will need to order separately, if you are not replacing carb. If its not broke you may be able to clean up the threads and screw it back in.

Looks like a Trail Blazers paradise

Not sure if yours is wired like this, but the few water cooled units I have worked on have a thermo switch on the radiator that turns the fan on and off as needed, if you bypass this switch the fan will only run with the key in the off position, that's my reasoning for thinking the thermo switch is bad. Now if yours has a relay like Dave suggested that may be different.

Very nice upgrades , lights are really nice.

This is by far the best quad site I have been on . Appreciate all the information shared, and the Administrators are so helpful. Just wanted to relay my appreciation. Thanks everyone.

Sounds like the thermostat that turns the fan on may be bad.

If this is aftermarket, I would double check that its wired like the old one, not all aftermarket is plug and play I found out recently.

I ve never had much luck at rebuilding these small master cylinders, bores are too corroded, just relating my experience, plus the kits aren't cheap for what you get. Im not telling you not to try, I will try anything once, maybe even twice, plus there is nothing more valuable than getting your own experience.

Mikunis are great carburetors , but when they get some age on them I have a problem with them flooding out, not sure what your problem is but if you have a clean carb and won't adjust I would start looking at the jets and needle for wear.

Rocky Mountainatvmc.com, and Motosports.com are the two places I use the most to find parts, they have everything.

Used one for front brakes on a Big Bear no problems yet.

Sorry! Didn't mean to question your mechanical ability, that's why I said if it was me, I question mine quite often.

Just for grins I might try to start it just to see what it does, maybe check the compression, sometimes the rings will free up, soak them with carb cleaner, and PB blaster that will take care of the rust and dried gas residue. Make sure valves are not stuck turn over slowly before starting.

In my expierience the factory manual setting is just a starting point to get it running once running if good that's great, but there are other variables that affect it also age and wear of engine, I adjust mine by ear . Set it to factory specs get it running turn it left slowly until the engine slows or starts running badly, then turn it right until the same thing happens and somewhere in between the two points when the engine is running the fastest and smoothest is the sweet spot. Sometimes the best running position with the engine warm results in hard starting when cold so may have to enrich the mixture a little.

Beautiful country nice ride, what more could you ask for.

I would try to determine if it electrical or mechanical, listen closely when you flip the switch for the solenoid click. Maybe jack it up so you can turn the wheels by hand and see what's happening or not happening. If it was me I would think about everything I did when repairing to make sure I didn't forget to do something important.

Sounds like it might be low of fluid , noise coming from front back or engine area.

Make sure there is no load on the throttle cable they are not a perfect fit on an aftermarket carb, after everything else you have done I might check the timing, it should not be off, but to advanced could cause a high idle, the only other thing I can think of is running to lean, I didn't have this problem, but I have known guys who put on aftermarket carbs describe your problem, and ended up drilling out the jets.

It will probably work good for many years, I have one on my Eiger that's bad I turn it to prime to fill carb for a minute and turn it to on I start it after a few minutes it runs out of gas, turn it back to prime and it runs again, I wasn't sure if reserve was vacuum operated because reserve works but on does not.

Don't know if this helps: https://www.standardmoto.net/pages/1600310/Products

I decided to go with Suzuki EcStar 5000 mineral oil, I know suzuki doesn't make their own oil but I was getting a headache trying to figure out which oil was best, I have a tendency to over engineer things. . This oil for this engine that oil for another and then there's the 0w-16 oil I don't know how you get a 0 wt oil. Im from the old days when you used Castrol GTX in your motorcycle and whatever brand you liked for your car. Example: A little off subject but, my daughter got a Volvo XC 60 4 cylinder turbo, she was using a oil change place to get her oil changed, no dipstick, you check the oil electronically, oil light kept coming on after just a few hundred miles, took it to dealer they said they were putting the wrong oil in it , bottom line, castrol and Volvo got together and made an oil specifically for their cars Castrol Edge Volvo, it says Volvo right on the bottle, the only oil for this car, not the same castrol edge you get everywhere else. So I think this may be why I went with the suzuki oil, this little experience took everything that I thought I knew about oil and lubrication and threw it right out the window. Sorry to be so long winded this was an experience I wanted to share.

I certainly will, I am currently working on a different project but it is next on my list.