Gwbarm

Not much way to tell without knowing which lift kit was installed some come with and some dont, i would just measure and try to find them in that size.

There should be an aftermarket one available, have you tried amazon or Ebay.

Thank you for sharing, great article.

I clean them good, spray them down with arourall and let it sit for a couple of weeks spraying several times daily untill the plastic doent soak it up anymore, good to soak some moisture back in, wet sand all the way up to 3000 grit and polish. Time consuming but works fairly well. Clear coat is the best looking and fastest I tried heat but just couldnt get it even enough to please me, but it looked a lot better.

This would have been the first run of the Kodiak 450, 2004 to 2008, some minor changes over the years but most parts from those years should be compatable.

Florida seems to be the go to place, but its getting kind of crowded down there.

Thats bad about the bearing sometimes they can be stubborn hope you get it sorted out.

I am not familiar with that one but there are so many out there. Have you got it run or what patrs are you looking for. As NRA said i wouldnt spend much money on it just get something better to spend time and money on. When i get something like that that i want to see run i have adapted parts to fit just to get it running just because i brought it home and i need to see it work more as a challenge than anything else, but i woulldnt rely on it for a daily rider.

I have run into that problem also dont seem to be many for that model Kodiak, plenty for the Grizzly, not sure why that is. I even reached out to one of the aftermarket companys and still didnt get a good answer, just not available.

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It should have them if the brake light switch is working, sometimes they get corroded badly and need cleaning. What problems are you having.

I have never seen one for just the 500, its always for the 500/550/700.

What RPM is full power on your machine.

Have you had it running since you got it. It doesnt look like the piston hit the plug but something did and it hasnt run since or the scarred area would be black like the rest of the plug. Maybe it snapped a ring that would account for low compression, but i would think if that happened compression would be even lower.

The very reason i decided to spend the money and get a new one.

Does it run well at that setting

Has it been running fine and just quit or is it new to you or have you seen it run before.

Yes #38 is the seal and if you bend #36 getting it out i would replace that also along with 39 which is an O ring, im sure its quite brittle. Great description of changing the U joint Mech its always good to heaar little tips and tricks for getting them in and out.

Im sure Amsoil was very good for that old engine, helped clean things up a bit. If it was a year before it started leaking, it was just putting it back in service and the old tired seal went bad.

Thats a pretty fancy light for Harbour Freight, i dont have one with the advance degrees on it, i guess its time to upgrade, but i use it so rarely. Thanks for the tip Mech, i didnt know you could change the advance by increasing the air gap.

Columbia Tenn is a nice place, been there many times, everytime i pass i think this would be a nice place to live. Good that you promoted the site!

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Good reasearch!

I have had leaks from changing to synthetic oils on older machines, but not this severe. it was just time for it to go.

Thanks for the detailed explanation! I did see your videos. Your girlfiend may be right, the amasol cleaned up your engine so well it made the bad seal show its ugly face. Amosol is great oil but for these older machines i have been sticking to Dino oil just because thats what was recommended. All that aside the seal was bad and was going to show up sooner or later. Labor intensive, a little, expense not that much, machine would definately be worth the repair, it runs and sounds good. You have to pull the drive shaft the connection at the engine pulls off of a splined shaft then you can get to the seal, the wheel bearing no biggy there just pull the wheel and you can get to that. The tire rolls fairly true so i think the bearing is your problem