Gwbarm

I was avoiding going there hoping it was a carb issue. You have checked that out by putting a known working carb on with no change. You have checked the compression and it was good so the valves should be OK, although i would check the valve clearances to make sure they are in spec. Generally i dont suspect the CDI until it does not spark at all, and it may not be the CDI, but that does control the advancement of the timing to some degree. The service manual does lay out steps involved to determine a malfunctioning CDI, which involves checking stator resistances, pick up coil resistance and primary and secondary coil resistance, along with check power in and ground to the CDI so you could check all these things and see if they are up to specs. Sometimes you can have a weak ground so check all those connections good. Do you have a service manual? If not i will see if i can locate one.

Got the starter working it was the soloenoid but it is actually attached to the starter loose connection crazy to have to pull the engine for that. I was prepared to replace the starter. Finally got it turning over with the key it has a hand parking brake like a car that has to be pulled to start the engine. Still wont start not even hit on starting fluid so its either bad out of time or coils bad.

Sand dunes in Utah, sounds like fun.

It looks like you are also Quad poor, nice looking bikes.

Interesting no change. What are you running for a CDI my other suspect would be the timing isnt being advanced enough to keep up.

You need your stator and pickup coil wires going to the CDI if any of those are hacked need to reattach them , need ground power and coil wire leaving the CDI.

I rewatched your video I think its fuel related its not wanting to take gas either not enough or its getting too much, it seems to settle back down when you let off the gas, hard to tell without seeing what the exhaust looks like.

Wow! Another one i have never seen or heard of. I guess i need to get out more.

This may not be exactly your model but should be close to the same

When in gear it puts an extra load on the engine, pulling its weight and your weight around.

Thanks for sharing

I think the A in your engine code is the date i have not been able to find anything to decipher the code, but from memory i think the A code was for the 2003-2005 models.

It really wasnt that big of a job, but it seems as im getting older everything is a big job.

I was thinking it sounds carb related or fuel delivery also. May check petcock and clean filter screen and make sure you are getting an adequate fuel supply, if you didnt do it when you cleaned the carb pull out the emulsion tube and make sure the little holes are open, also there is a small jet down in a hole thats easy to miss.

Just aquired this Honda 4514. I had heard of them and seen them but had never really looked at one. Amazing machine from the 90s. It has a 14 HP inline 2 cylinder engine. A cute little fan like the old school cars had and a little radiator. It has a timing belt on the back of the engine running the cam and a water pump. Just like a miniature car engine with electronic clutches to turn blades on and off. Pretty hight tech for the 90s not a small thing and built like a tank weighs in at 600 pds hydrostatic trans. I have found out that almost anything you have to do to it the engine has to come out starter timing belt water pump. Very expensive parts i think most got junked for that reason, i did find out they were built by John Deere except for the honda engine. Does anyone here have any expierience with these.

Thinking back i have had this happen to me twice before, and both times Marvel Mystery oil was involved, the first was a 60s honda motorcycle engine got it pistons were stuck let it soak in Marvel for a while freed up the piston got it started and pouring white smoke, at the time i decided it was either rings still stuck and worn and aluminum piston hitting bore or the Marvel Mystery oil burning off causing the smoke, still not sure which. The second time it happened was on a fresh rebuild so i know that was not from stuck rings, i didnt have any assembly lube so i put it together with Marvel Mystery oil, after starting tons of white smoke for a while, then i determined that the Mystery oil was not letting the rings seat properly, too thin and slick, after running for a while everything was good. Never used it on a rebuild again. Still use it to unstick piston though. May not really apply to your problem but not knowing the history of your engine just thought i would through that in.

Thats good i figured you had tried that already next i would replace the soloenoid . If its glowing red its internally shorted.

White smoke is generally a sign of water leaking into the combustion chamber, but i dont think yours is water cooled. A matt black plug is usually a sign of a rich carb mixture and oil burning is shiny black, but you might have a combination of both going on and the plug looks matt black. I think i would first go through the carb is it aftermarket or OEM if its aftermarket i would not even rebuilt it , either get OEM(best solution but expensive) or get a new aftermarket one. You also might get away with just a cleaning you can try that first and see if anything improves.

A new thread would be easier to keep track of and maybe get more responses. But it sounds like a tired engine with lots of blowby, do a compression check and then add some oil to the cylinder and see if it increases. It could also be flooding is the smoke blue or black and what does the plug look like shiney black or matt bllack.

It may be the engine has locked up, since you said metal shavings were on the plug, not a good sign, have you tried turning it with a wrench to see if its free. Oh yeah you can. put a rope on the pull start to see if it moves.

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Not much way to tell without knowing which lift kit was installed some come with and some dont, i would just measure and try to find them in that size.

There should be an aftermarket one available, have you tried amazon or Ebay.

Thank you for sharing, great article.

I clean them good, spray them down with arourall and let it sit for a couple of weeks spraying several times daily untill the plastic doent soak it up anymore, good to soak some moisture back in, wet sand all the way up to 3000 grit and polish. Time consuming but works fairly well. Clear coat is the best looking and fastest I tried heat but just couldnt get it even enough to please me, but it looked a lot better.