Gwbarm

Just noticed the other link didnt work try this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175598402017

Those choke plungers are bad to get stuck in the bore, 

I havent searched for them lately i will take a look, yes it was new.

Sorry i mispelled it

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=niche-cycle&store_name=nichecyclesupply&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211

 Good point! 👍

I usually use a small hammer to get the races started in and once in the hole get a piece of iron pipe or socket the right diameter to push it to the correct position, you can hear when it gets there the sound will be different. I have used a punch but feel it goes in evenly with something of the right diameter.

Thanks for the info, i will look for that app. I figured they should have one just havent looked for it.

I have a 2000 Big Bear and the new Mikuni i put on definately fixed my running problems, i found a dealer on Ebay, Nikki Cycle, that was selling new Mikunis for 1/3 of the price of an online dealer. I was skeptical to order thinking it may be a fake, but it was a true Mikuni.

All Big Bears are manual shift. Have you tried adjusting it out with the shift linkage adjustment, did it shift when you were riding it. Im afraid you might have to take it back apart and line it up correctly.

Glad you got it working, what’s important here is that our combined efforts helped a fellow member, that’s what it’s all about, good luck 🤙.

The races seals and O rings are in the Amazon kit, minus the bearing grease, grease is cheap, i prefer Amazon over Ebay for easy returns, if wrong or doesnt fit right and fast shipping.

Good work getting those out, sawzall is good, you can usually find something that will work around the house without having to buy something for a 1 time use. i have so many of those one time use items that i can never find when i need them again. I am like a tool junkie, cant stand not to have the right tool when working on something.

You will also need to hammer the old bearing race out and the new one in for the new bearings.

Garmin E-Trex works well for me.

I also have the seal driver that i can never find when i need it, i usually get them started with a small hammer then get a flat piece of metal that covers the whole seal and tap the metal gently, i feel the metal pushes it down evenly, probably not necessary,

The Ebay bearings were caltric a semi reputal aftermarket supplier, looked cheap and finish was bad.

The second was pivot/works never heard of them but they looked like quality bearings they were more expensive, but i would go with those.

I use chiesels a lot but i have never had good luck splitting nuts with them,i always use something else, probably operator error

All Balls make good parts i would think there bearings would be good also.

No, this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Separator-Pressure-Extractor-Removing/dp/B0C33NJTKJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=BESZ5MO8BMXG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.s0HjjzshN_7JFqfTGH-4IAZ5q6Q5uLK_006Mnyp-QCiY71FZ8vAM_qcp10v4PWuWWlO6hvY1nraclo9i8D7BnXRICbsVgdefSHelgKvVruCFWVVvnoHyleLVwpX2Hluf3oqmlS8t9_OSqPcWm133kKvLMSRtxYLBMTKKUbVJjhbY9ecH508bFZW2UJvQT5st-JzDcTZzaGAJdTQhLK_ljJ7dEYVmRfFgDCGwMnjMv7bRmoSZJCJLgnp16lliQQBB8FOTm0PXdp3gz-YJ3rrKbklbSkElwl-wBAGHtSEdybY.tmeJGFnL0j4wmGR5pGzNe0nxvv596WLzStQDJiYKaEA&dib_tag=se&keywords=nut%2Bsplitter&qid=1709254298&sprefix=nutsplitter%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Or you can use your dremmel to cut them off if you have the metal cutting disk, or a grinder if you have that.

That doesnt sound like a bad price, then yow would have everything new and installed correctly,as i recall there is a certain sequence the bearing have to be installed to be correct and you can get it wrong, just check the ratings if its aftermarket for good reviews

Good advice Mech! My only addition is my expierience with CDI is they either spark or dont spark and even if they dont spark its not always the CDI other thing need to be checked before replacing, but yours is sparking if its a good blue spark thats what you want, it may not appear really blue in bright light but if its a healthy spark with a pop you are probably OK. If its a weak spark not much pop and you really have to determine if it was actually a spark or inconsitant spark it could be a ground problem.   

Good point Mech! I usually run a thicker oil in an engine that has been sitting for years on first start up to get everything oiled and lubed up and turning again, run it for a while to hopefully get the inside cleaned up  good, thicker seems a little stickier than thin, probably not, but thats what i do. Then change back to manufacturers grade after running for a month or so.

Dremmell will help, but if its biting into the metal of the shaft it wont make any difference, but will make it look neater and cleaner. 

Looking at the axel design it looks like with the snap ring removed it should have come off either way,  appears to have the same taper on each end. Where it stops it appears that it may have gotton hot there at some point in its life , looks like baked on oil you might clean thaat good with wire wheel and it might slide right on, but the metal may have expanded from the heat in that area causing the problem.

Good job! Makes me want to get out and work on mine, but this time of the year i have so much yard work to do.

Great you got it all apart, its sometimes easier when you get it out and can work on it. Your shaft looks good i think better thaan the ebay one , bearing carrier doessnt look bad, so you just need some bearings and a sprocket hub. Good work!

Yeah! The more i thought about it , thats what i would do also, i did find one on Ebay wasnt that great and he wanted way too much for it. Also found this one wasnt bad for the money.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285414198526?epid=26017014636&itmmeta=01HQSKYC2BCH3QCKVNVYVN78S6&hash=item4274030cfe:g:vXcAAOSw6SJky9cQ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAABAIsz1lU3nJVQNHecZlJx2fs1N3a7rKZm9%2FZ%2BhQo2LjhBNi7JYJOeoY1sncPZfwO6x3EUqJhB3rgzFl0Xmvr0JpQSKwNi11TvUvTArwXyGdFFuitBjd1uDZW%2BzQEjs%2FY3wzVrOUfWH%2FniB7zzF8wHeKy4Cz61AMHG4nOwMiYTvkldvUMZXHCVu2GCspsgSpcmWssFxRSxnc3Vqx0X0b0YwhANcB0Y7yotWjbIxT%2FpLiCEvysSxATm2oOB%2BGpzRDvbaQsmUCLXEdSbGCbMqsF%2B0D3YMEMKfv2%2F9aDyhX%2FwzHXQD1UYQV0RBq5q%2Fd6sKmhBkrtl%2BPJDTr2uQn0qjnw5DwI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7DB-bO-Yw

I think once you get it out there will be more options as to how to get it apart.

Thats a good plan! I might have missed something along the way, just a thought, if everything else is good, you are just trying to get the wheel studs to grab in the hub, get the old ones out by splitting the nut, try some new ones and see if they grab after you install them, as an option. If you want to get everything new for piece of mind thats a different story. 

You can, you can spread those brackets apart and the whole thing will come out. I couldnt see a lot of your photos and videos not sure why yet. Been trying to figure it out. i could see this one and the last photo you posted. Is your shaft damaged or are you just doing it to replace the bearings, i know your sprocket hub was damaged.