Gwbarm
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Posts posted by Gwbarm
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I second rebuilding your original carb, i usually buy the all balls kit it comes with new screws, of course you can buy OEM jets and parts individually at a greater expense. The screws sometimes get very tight usually from dried varnish around the threads i would spray them good with carb cleaner let them set for a while and then spray them down with PB Blaster. I have had to get many out with pliers, i usually use the smallest needle nose vice grips but channel lock work just fine. I have never tried impact driver im sure it works, i was just always afraid it might break the carb, that pot metal does get a tad brittle with age.
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That almost sounds like the float level is too high or the needle is not completely shutting off the fuel flow. I would check all those things when you take it apart. It shouldnt be leaking at the bowl gasket so pull the gasket out carefully clean the surfaces good and reseat it. I have had trouble with the carb drain leaking even after i replaced the o ring they would still leak a bit, i might have to reseat it several times to stop the leak, so check that seal out good also. Just some thoughts.
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I use mostly for work also, dont care for the mud or see how much mud i can get on myself or the quad, i guess as iv gotten older i think, if i go through that mud it will be fun, but then i will be wet and muddy the rest of the day and when i get home i will have to clean all that mud off the quad. I do like riding through the woods, it so relaxing, and i do like riding to the creek getting off, fish for a while, generally on my own land i like the solitude of being the only one in the woods.
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I use a screwdriver in the hole and turn slowly to tell when im at top dead center with a finger over the hole to tell when im on the compression stroke, but timing marks are good too if you can see them while turning over the engine.
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It seems if it was overflowing at the float bowl it should leak more at idle than higher speeds, as you go faster the level in the float bowl goes down and should not be coming over the side.
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Im not a real expert in that area but i always thought yank was just a slang term left over from the civil war between the states in the 1800s.
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Even if condensation did form it shouldnt be enough to get into your carb and cause problems, so it probably was water in your gas can.
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If the oil is still that black the inside of the engine is extremely dirty, i would run it a little and to try to get the new oil circulating and clean things up and then change it again.
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I havent tried the Alcohol but the Berryman B12 Chemtool is the best carb cleaner i have ever used. Walmart or any autosupply stores carry it. Autozone, Oreileys, Advance.
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I just took the tank off mine, very simple to do, these plastic tanks are so easy to clean, just washed it out with the water hose mine didnt even have any crap in it, then let it dry for a couple of days, but if in a hurry use a hair dryer to dry it out, so easy compared to the metal mororcycle tanks i usually deal with, 30 years of crud varnish and rust i usually use muriatic acid to clean them, nasty stuff, dont have to do any of that with ATV tanks, but i do use Berryman B12 chemtool as an additive to keep the carb clean and water formation in the tank to a minimum and i always use non-Ethynol fuel in my small engines. More expensive but it does help.
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Sorry about that, I’ve only seen one in the 70s test drove it what a piece of junk it was, I knew it wasn’t a straight six I just assumed it was a v 6 never even thought of GM making a boxer engine.
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No it was not a boxer engine, it was a v6 and had dual carbs.
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Oil may very well have caused it , more friction and heat generated in an air cooled engine that was already too large of an engine to be air cooled, it was produced as rival to the volkswagon, volkswagon did it right, although even those, you did not want to run it under 40 MPH very long, GM did not, those air cooled six cylinder engines were prone to overheat especially the middle cylinders. Engine failure was pretty common in those engines. I didnt even know Rotella was around in the 70s.
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Not required, but you can register and pay the fees if you want in my state, but still not road legal.
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That sounds like an interesting project.
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They do appear identical, but do have different part numbers. So there is some little difference but i couldnt see it on the diagram.
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They are good like that , when everything is right thats all it takes.
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That is strange it doesnt fit, unless there was a spacer that fell out, you tighten the bolts to move the shieves father apart.
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Most of the 250s held about 2.2 quarts, start with 2 quarts and check it with the dipstick, add slowly when it gets on the stick, it will fill up fast, dont overfill, you might also check for a crack like Mech said they do warp and if it warped and was torrqued down to close the gap the housing cover may have cracked, had this happen before.
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Just for reference: the top link is the 90-95 wiring harness, the bottom is for the 90-95 CDI
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Yes that makes sence, if the stator is from a newer warrior, as far as i can tell the newer ones did have an 8 and 6 pin CDI connector. I tryed looking up the newer warrior OEM part but it only showed a CDI at an angle that you couldnt see the pin configuration. I revisited your ebay purchase and it does seem right for the 97-2001 warrior, didnt see a link for the harness you bought but if it plugs in it may be compatable. I dont see warriors very much, but it appears the later years went to the 8 and 6 pin configuration just like the big bear 400, i have never seen a 350 with that confuguration. Just reviewing everything I would have bought exactly what you bought thinking it might work. Working on a project like this there are so many variables to over come, i love it, its like putting a puzzel together, may not be worth the time and effort you spent but when you are finished it works, and you are proud of your accomplishment.
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Try to figure out what year the engine is, I saw a wiring harness with pigtails on eBay it is for a 90-95 warrior they also had the pig tail CDI that goes with it . So I’m thinking your engine is somewhere in that range
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The biggest problem there is, if this is a wiring harness is for the Big Bear 400 there is no aftermarket CDI available, ask me how i know. It is still very doable, you just might have to do what the guy on the video did. The other option is find the right harness for the warrior, from Mechs reasearch, it doesnt sound like you got a harness for a warrior. Study the warriors harness so you will know what it looks like if you go that route. I dont see how you can figure out how to wire the CDI you bought unless there is a schematic as to how it is wired internally. Mech might have more options right now thats all i can think of.
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The big bear 400s have 8 and 6 but they didnt come out until 2000.
Need opinions on whether I should pull carb on 2005 Scrambler
in Polaris ATV Forum
Posted
That definately needed some attention you should run better with a new filter on, did you find any other obvious problems with the carb.