Gwbarm

Never rode one of those, but i know they had a great engine.

You might check to make sure the throttle plate is going all the way back and not binding open slightly. Other than that good reasearch i have never tried using OEM parts in a chinese carb, really didnt think they would work.

I havent used a Nikki carb but i have been very happy with the Nikki parts i have used. Thanks for the info!

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Thanks! The reason i asked, i was looking at your harness to cdi plugs connector, im not that familiar with the warrior, but the plugs look very similar to my big bear 400 wiring, it has the larger plug and the smaller plug. A lot of the others i have seen have both plugs the same size.

Good point! Never really understood why they do that unless to pass strict safety requirements from the different countries

Yeah, took a good fall a couple of years ago at 65, you dont just get up and shake your head and keep going like you used to, in fact you get up slowly and see if everything works, then try to determine your pain level. Luckily nothing was broken, which was a miracle in itself, but i still have trouble with neck and shoulder on that side. So 4 wheel are good.

 Thanks for the reply! Suzukis are no longer here in the states, the Nissan i have looked at briefly, the Pathfinder, and the Murano. 

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Thats great, sometimes it just a matter of jumping in there and doing it, sometimes i plan on doing the job longer than it actually takes me to do it,  I try to figure every aspect of what might go wrong, because usually if it can go wrong it will. Glad yours went smoothly.

The wiring harness you bought, did it say it was for a Big Bear or a Warrior, and what years are we talking about.

According to the specs, the CDI is only for the Warrior or the Kodiak. Since the Kodiak came only in a 400, the 350 engine must be from a Warrior or a Big Bear. If its chain drive that would be the Warrior engine.

Sorry! I must have missed that, you might be right on track. I got confused i thought you were working on replacing the wiring harness on a Big Bear, iv been noticing that happening more often as i get older.

You will get it , life does take priority, I know very well.

Interesting, it sounds like the wiring harness was not for a Big Bear, i think they were all shaft drive, or i havent seen one that wasnt.

This video may help you identify some of your wires. Not exactly what you are doing but may help.

Im trying to keep up so i will just start at the beginning. You bought a wiring harness but its not the right one, then you bought a CDI , im assuming it plugs into the wiring harness you bought, but is it the right CDI for that harness. Its hard to get a CDI for a harness when you are not sure which harness you have. You seem to have it wired up is anything working. Im still studying the wiring, i wasnt sure what your question was. 

3 hours ago, Mech said:

So, depending on whether your bike is belt or manual transmission you could eliminate some of the babbit pages and carry on scrolling down and clicking from tab to tab watching for the flicker that indicates one of the diagrams has changed

All Big Bears were manual , and all Kodiaks were automatics, they were so close to the same, if you wanted a manual shift you got a big bear and if you wanted an Automatic you got a Kodiak, and the Big Bears were 4 wheel drive all the time, i think they changed that on some of the later models, the Kodiaks could go to two wheel drive, or 4 wheel drive.

I used that all balls kit also , it is a very nice kit and worked well.

Yes Mech thats the way i figured out if i was looking at the correct diagram , i would compare it to my bike to make sure wire colors were the same, although they were pretty much the same with all the 400 series of that year, and check to make sure all the componets were there in the diagram and on my bike. I still wasnt exactly sure but they did seem to match up. Just noticing there is no FWN for the 2000 model listed what year is yours. I do remember the YFM400 were the same numbers for the Kodiak and Big Bear and the other letters after specified what model.

I very rarely find one of these out of time, those engines are very resiliant and the valves rarely need adjusting, but this one is older and more than likely been rode hard and put up wet many times. Wrong plug will definately do it, i usually just put in the factory recommended plug.

Then there is the carb most of the after market carbs that i have seen have 25 jets, which may be right since the aftermarket ones are slightly different, but the OEM one is 22.5 and the kits i have bought also have the 22.5, but it may not be correct in the aftermarket carb. I think i would keep working on the OEM carb, see if you can get it to  factory specs. Aftermarket carbs seem to run lean right out of the box even with the 25 jet, so that might be some of your problem. I have noticed the same spitting and sputtering and not smoothe acceleration with them, that is why i have been working to get all of mine back on OEM carbs. 

I found no sticker on mine to tell me which one i had ,so i did one of the internet vin# searches and it came back same as yours, YFM400F or YFM400FH Buckmaster, so i figured since mine wasnt camalflaged in color it was the YFM400F. I have just been playing like that was it, still not positively sure.

That sounds like a good plan definately the best way. I dont like using easyouts either and i think the smallest one would still be too big.

Never heard that but maybe AGM reacts differently to being maintained daily. I know they dont like to be charged with high amperage  or quickly.

I would try everything possible to get it out, before drilling, that is a tiny screw and would be easy to get into the threads and then the carburetor is ruined. I would soak it completely in a combo mixture of carb cleaner and penetrating oil, and use heat if there is no head left on the screw at all and it down in the hole,  then you have to drill a small hole and use the smallest ease out and it still may be too big, i dont like using easeouts but are sometimes necessary.