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About Heywire77

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    Occasional Poster
  • Birthday 02/05/1970
  1. Finally running good I got my part in today and it is fixed and runs good.
  2. When you get your meter I would first do the test on the ignition switch, and the kill switch that I posted on here.with yours running and then you cut it off and it would not start back it could be the ignition switch or to do will the kill switch because it has a diode in there with the kill switch.
  3. Here is some test from the manual I have it is for the ignition switch and the kill switch and diode , I would try these test before pulling the wiring harness . 1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position. 3. Connect the red tester lead to the red wire; then connect the black tester lead to the orange wire . 4. The meter must show less than 1 ohm. 5. Turn the ignition switch to the LIGHTS posi- tion. 6. Connect the red tester lead to the red wire; then connect the black tester lead to the orange wire 7. The meter must show less than 1
  4. Ok wait and the end of your comment you say you have negative volts but further up you said you have 370 volts to the coil . Is that positive or negative volts you have to the coil?
  5. Also I looked again and in the manual I have it says it has 250 to 375 volts to the coil
  6. First check the orange and white wire at the cdi module with a volt meter does it have 12 volts that is with the key on , also try it with the key turned on all the way to the lights on position if it doesn't have 12 volts then let me know . Another thing to try is try to see if you have spark with using the pull rope to try and start it try in both key positions with lights on and off , and make sure you have the plug grounded good against the head or something . Buddy's this things have lots of wiring problems I cut all the tape off the wires and even the heat shrink were they would have 3 o
  7. I am waiting for the new trigger to come in it is suppose to be here Friday so all I had checked is to see if it fired the spark plug.on a cdi ignition system the stator has a source coil that is wrapped and has the yellow and white wire in mine that power travels to the cdi and it changes it in to dc volts hundreds of volts and holds it till the trigger picks up and sends its signal to the cdi then it fires the coil , mine had volts to the coil but they were negative volts and I could take the terminal off the coil and touch it back and it would fire the plug.i would bet a lot of times the tr
  8. I don't have any friends who have the same machine to test parts and I don't like buying parts and it not being the problem , I found the problem this morning it was the trigger I to it and the stator back out for the 4th time and tried heating the trigger with my heat gun and watched the ohms go up to 216 then I out it back in the atv and it started having spark , tried it a few times and then went in and ordered a new stator with the trigger because I couldn't find just the trigger anyway that is electrical parts for you because it tested good every time I tested it but after reading up on c
  9. I tell you what this will be the last arctic cat I buy and soon as it is fixed it will be sold ! From all that I have read and came up with these are pieces of crap and you know what they say you can't fix crap!
  10. Just came in because to dark now to see I rechecked everything once again I checked the ignition switch wiring , all the grounds , and checked the voltage to coil it is now showing - 145 volts that is to the white wire with blue stripe and then to good ground, and I can check it from the black wire to the white/blue wire at coil and it is the same negative volts and I have my meter hooked up right that is crazy , I pulled the side cover back off and stator out and checking it
  11. Everything checked good I have a manual now , only thing is the coil peak voltage was suppose to be 250 to 375 volts and it only had 80 volts to the coil, so is that the stator doing that or is it the cdi now giving it enough volts because I read in manual that the cdi ampflys the voltage to the coil ? Because I have ohms right at the stator three black wires and the source the white and yellow wire have right ohms .any thing you can think of would be great I had before pulled the whole wiring harness down and apart all the plastic are still off atv I pulled all tape and the heat shrink off wi
  12. I was finally able to get the manual to download last night I found one for my atv .
  13. Hey I also pulled all the plastics off pulled the whole wiring harness apart and only found one little corrosion areas fixed it but still no spark .have had the side cover off twice and I rewound the stator the magnets are great, also I can take the blk/white wire off the coil and touch it to it and it will fire the spark plug everytime I do it .also when checking the ohms on the coil do you put the ohm meter on 2000 ohms because if so I can't get a reading checking from the two terminals I can put it on 20k and get readings to show up . I put a used coil on it I got from eBay .
  14. I am still fooling with this dam arctic cat , it has drove me nuttz ! Does anybody know the ohms the trigger is suppose to have mine is a 2006 Artic cat 400 fis 4x4 and the trigger is only reading around 180 ohms and when I spin the engine over it will go down and sometimes goes up to 500 ohms with spinning over but just sitting it only has 180 ohms I can't get the dang coil to spark I can get it to spark if I take the black/white wire off the coil and touch it back everytime I do that the spark plug will spark and I am showing around 80 volts to the coil that is pulling the pull rope because
  15. I need help on a 2006 Artic cat 400 fis 4x4 automatic no spark I need to know the ohms that the trigger should have , I have replaced the spark plug,coil,battery,and rewound the magneto ...

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