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SpringValleyCycles

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Everything posted by SpringValleyCycles

  1. I have a quadrunner 230 (1988) that I just bored and put a new piston/rings in. Bike was running fine except for smoking before rebuild. Cleaned carb, new battery and it fired right up. But, it idles great, but won't take throttle. It acts like it is hitting the rev limiter when giving it throttle. (like they do when the voltage regulator is bad) Replaced the VR, still same problem. Shot fuel straight through carb to make sure that wasn't problem, no difference. Well, to get to the end of it, I have replaced the voltage regulator, the stator, the CDI, the fuse holders (they were kinda dry rotted), the ignition coil, basically everything electric related except the wiring harness itself. I have had 3 other mechanics in here to look at it, and still have not come up with a solution. You can't get the OEM wire harness anymore, but am looking at building a new one, thinking that there is a bad wires (or multiple wires) that is causing the ignition to be fooled because of resistance. Has anyone had an issue like this, or any suggestions? It has driven me nuts, especially since I have had other units just like this one, where either the CDI or usually the voltage regulator has been the solution when they had similar symptoms. Thanks, Anthony
  2. If it still leaks past the float needle, take a Q-Tip with some brass polish or something like crest toothpaste, put the Q-Tip in your cordless drill and lightly polish float valve seat for about 45-60 seconds. Use carb cleaner and spray off polish and use compressed air to get it all out. I have done this on carbs that looked ready for the trash.
  3. I use Amsoil Powersports 0w40 in mine, it runs cooler, oil lasts longer, oil stays clean. I use Amsoil marine 80w90 hypoid gear oil in differentials as well. It will handle up to 10% water to it without loosing lubricity and prevents rust/corrosion. In my TRX450FM which gets ridden daily, after 18months riding, oil still looks like new. It is a little pricey, but the extra protection is worth it.
  4. I have a stock 2001 TRX 350 rancher 2 wheel drive. Been going rockcrawling on it and have had backfiring on downhills. Pulled carb and went from stock 130 main jet to a 142, replaced slow jet from 42 to a 45, reset the jet needle from stock 3rd slot to 4th slot and have the A/F screw at 3 turns out. Have Uni filter in stock air box. Bike is now hitting rev limiter in all gears, and will pull front wheels off ground. Can go from full throttle to no throttle and not noticing any popping now. My question for anyone, has anyone done similar changes? Any suggestions for other improvements? Don't really want to change exhaust, don't really need any more power and don't want anymore noise, but, would consider a quieter pipe. Also, I see that the thermosensor on this bike is set around 308 degrees, I have noticed that I can ride the heck out of the bike and I don't hear the fan come on. I have tested the fan and just replaced the thermo switch because I thought it wasn't working. Anyone had any issues with this? Thanks, Anthony Oh, ride in NW Arkansas, elevations between 1200 and 2000 feet.
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