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Similar Forum Topics
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By LMI
Hi all. New to the forum & quads. Seems like a great place full of info.
I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700. I need a battery. I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types. I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire. RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140. Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS. How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
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By tflack500tbx
Background,
This winter (Dec.) I was plowing and everything just died, just quit. No lights, no pull start, No nothing. I've had this problem before and I changed the voltage reg and it ran fine for over a year. Then this. So I changed it again, thinking this was the same problem. Tried to start it and a small pin hole in the CDI appeared with electrical smoke.
Months go by and I finally decide to just replace parts (I'm Horrible at electrical issues). I changed the stator, new CDI, new Voltage reg, new starter solenoid, tested the starter (prefect), charged the battery.
Went to start it and the solenoid rapidly clicked. All the dash lights on, headlights work. Pull stared it and it fired right up no issues. Looked into the rapidly clicking starter solenoid and it was not enough juice in the battery. Took the battery completely out and hooked up a jump box to it turned the key, light on, everything looks good. Pushed the starter button and it fired right up ran great. Turned it off to test it again, Turned the key and nothing. No dash lights nothing. Took the jump box off and pulled started it. Started it right up. Re-hooked the jump box, still nothing.
Any Ideas?
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By tds7
The battery on my Big Bear drops completely down in the battery compartment nothing sticks up to grip too, plus there is only 1/8" clearance along the sides, no way to get a grip on it to pull up out of battery compartment. I thought about putting a piece nylon strap under the battery and leaving enough up each side to give me something to pull it up out ff the battery compartment or using a big zip tie around the battery.
Any others have any ideas or have had this issue.
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By hunky
This old boy has been coastal so lots of rust. But when I turn the key, nothing. Green neutral light works, head/tail lights work. Was running fine when I parked it for a few months.. no issues with starter. This did happen once before (last year).. not sure what overcame it.. maybe playing around with gear shifter.. but not sure if that was what did it. But doesn't seem to do anything now when I play around with it while hitting the start button.
I did take apart the handlebar mounted start button housing and looked it over. Couldn't figure anything out there, but looked the same as when I had the problem last year. Put my probes on various wires there but didn't learn anything.. not sure how it is wired.
So this first image there is a connector with 2 wires coming from forward (the male part of connector) - one blue and one blue w/ red stripe. The blue continues down to a post near where the gear shifter enters the housing. (Second image). I was wondering about that.. I opened up the connector and the 2 wires (coming from forward) show continuity when I put my probes on 'em. Thought that was weird, but maybe supposed to be like that? I turned on the key and tested for voltage but didn't find any.
I'm just unaware of how to test for anything. Would be interesting to put 12 volts to the starter, but not sure about doing that or how. The wires going in are kind of hard to get to. I suppose I could take out the starter.. but wanted to ask if there is something easier to check first.
Thanks for looking!
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By Sha35297
I have this bike in my shop for a customer. It was sunk completely under water and left running until it killed. I did a complete engine rebuild. Replaced all bearings, crank, oil pump, and various other components. Engine starts and runs great. It will shift up through all gears perfectly in automatic and in ESP, but when slowing down it gets to 3rd gear and the MIL "-" light comes on and stays on. No flashes or anything and it will not shift gears. Kill the engine and restart in ESP mode and it is able to shift to neutral and start over. Does the same thing while down shifting in ESP mode. I replaced shift angle sensor with no improvement. Checked oil pressures as per repair manual "74psi" and higher with higher RPM's. With no MIL codes to point at an issue. I am at a loss as to what else to check or replace. Has anyone else ran across this issue?
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