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Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already. When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there). it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start. I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things. I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap. Enough background on it, the problem is this: It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly. It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold... It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold- does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal. A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression. I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis.. I have never adjusted valves before- the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this. My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top- should i tear down and rebuild the top end? What should i try first? I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed. I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon. Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit- Id rather not sink too much more into this machine.. lol
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Have a 2000 Yamaha Grizzly YFM600FWA with no spark. Checked the troubleshooting chart, and all checks were within specs. CDI has part # 5GT-00 F8T36071. Friend has a 1998 Grizzly 600 but his CDI part # is 4WV-00 F8t34671. Are they the same? Thinking about taking my CDI and put it on his ATV and find out if it works, but don't want to damage something if not interchangeable. Thanks
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hi all first post just found forum and the manuals / wiring diagram BIG THANK YOU im struggling to find the vin number on my frame? I m told left side of frame , lower, nr. in front of the gear pedal ?? haven't found it yet , is it numbers stamped on the frame or a commission plate ?? main prob. no spark no power to coil , off to study the wiring info I've just found thanks again. tom
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can someone tell me what could be the problem if the electric start doesn't turn the motor over but sparkplug fires like crazy but the pull rope turns the motor but no fire on spark plug. thanks for any advice in advance . cbbubby78
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Evening folks I have a 1988 bayou 220 quad that has a damaged stator and been lying about for a few years. Recently I got the chance of a 1996 bayou 220 that had also been sitting for a few years so I decided I would try and make 1 good bike out of the 2. The 96 frame was rotten so I decided to use my original 88. I swapped the magneto and stator over from the 96 bike but then noticed that the magneto and stator wiring was slightly different so I decided best thing to do would be to change the wiring loom over. Having done this I ran into issues connecting my original run stop switch and push button start. The 96 loon had a connector with 6 wires where as the 88 had a 4 wire connector and a 3 wire connector. I sorted this by making up a conversion harness using the 2 looms but still the push button start would not work. I have now solved this by using some of the spare wires left beside the ignition key connectors and a relay. So now I have the engine turning over with the starter button. But sadly I have no spark. On checking the Cdi unit I have found that I have 6 wires going into the cdi unit but all the wiring diagrams I've seen only show 5 for the 96 model. The extra wire I have is a grey wire which has a loose unattached end beside the ignition switch. Does anyone know where this grey wire needs to be attached. Thank you to anyone who has read this sorry it's so long but wanted to try and give the full story.
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Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile. When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end. When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing. fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day. What I know.
Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin. When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad. now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out. But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.
Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives? I even thought large computer case brushless fan. smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300. They run standard 12v DC.
Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
By Guest Fox300exchic
The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
I live in Minnesota and bought a 2016 CFORCE 500 HO. I am in hope to see if there is anyone in the US that is experiencing this sudden drop off in RPM below 4000 RPM. I have uploaded some videos of my issue on YouTube. I will list three of the four I posted. The fourth can be found on my channel but it is a comparison between my Polaris 570 and my CFORCE 500.
I quit on my first dealer because we just did not mix well together. I brought it to another CFMOTO dealer that just became a CFMOTO dealer in January 2016. They are in a large ranch and agriculture area in a neighboring state that is pretty close to where I live. They have close to every brand available. They are a much larger dealer than the first one I bought the unit from.
I brought the unit three weeks ago to them and they have worked on it a good solid week and have given up on it. I have read reports from owners in Canada that the dealers there were aware of the issue and have had success in fixing the herky jerky drivability issue.
I am picking it up tomorrow and bringing it back home. It has been to the trails of the Black Hills this year and was new in late April. 300 miles on it. It has never changed. Very hard to ride on the trails or when I herd livestock.
Here are the links to my videos.
I can't accept that this is normal operation. Does anyone from CFMOTO China scan these posts?
I need help that CFMOTO USA has not provided.
I'm wanting to run Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in the 700 Griz but I can only find it in either 0W-40 or 5W-40 weights, and the manual says it's ok to use everything BUT those weights...5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40 and 20W-50.
Would it be ok to use the Rotella 5W-40 or do I need to stick to what's specified in the manual?
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