Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2011 Linhai 28 bighorn with a slipping clutch

it has a Dr Pulley HiT201206 in it

i dont have the tweak springs that came with it

Any help on where i can buy then and possibly new shoes?

And bell?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadnut20
      Just picked up a 2025 Yamaha Kodiak 700 fixing to do a EPI Clutch mod to it since I dropped bigger tires on it !! Air box , exhaust , and programmer next ! 

    • By sunn
      The clutch engagement on my 2021 cforce 400s was approx 2700 RPM, very abrupt/not smooth.   I obtained a "kit" from RNG consisting of a blue painted spring (spring force unknown) with 12 gram weights, as measured on my postal scale.  Installation was easy; 18 mm and 30 mm (not 32 mm as seen on other writings) impact sockets for clutch housing removal.  The resultant clutch engagement was still up to approx 2500 and very abupt/not smooth.
       The original spring was labeled p/n 0951-1021 (specs for spring force 300/1600) with 18 gram weights.
      I called RNG who told me the kit should work fine for my ATV, but that wasn't the case as I found.  
      The RNG spring was slightly longer than the stock spring, but felt slightly easier at initial downward force but had more resistance than stock as I continued to push down.  RNG would not tell me what the spring force was.
      I then tested the clutch with the RNG spring and the OEM 18 gram weights with the resultant engagement RPM of about 2050 RPM, a little smoother engagement but still not good.
      I am really struggling to get any answers on the best combination of spring / weights to achieve a smooth engagement of maybe 1800 RPM.  Note; idle RPM is approx. 1600.
      I have searched all the forums and cannot find good information, and RNG appears to be not willing to share information.  What gives here?  Anyone with experience to share?
    • By Coyote251
      I'm trying to help a buddy out with his bike (he's not really on the internet or familiar with these forums) and I'll admit that I am not super familiar with the transmission and clutches in these bikes. I owned a Brute a few years ago, but never had an issue like this that I had to troubleshoot.
      So basically my buddy bought a group lot of 650's to build one good bike out of. He got it all put together and has it running but when he pushes on the throttle the clutch doesn't engage till the RPM's are quite high and even when its moving it doesn't really speed up, almost seems like its in "limp mode". He's tried 2 different transmissions so I don't think that's the problem. 
      Is there any adjustment on the clutch engagement? Anything else I can tell him to look at? Let me know if you need anymore information if you think you can help.  
    • By Baldwin
      I’m brand new to 4 wheelers and just bought a 1987 Yamaha Moto-4 350 4X4 to use for hunting. I say 1987, but not positive. The owner is not positive about the model year, but he said 1987 sounds about right. He also gave me his son's Clymer manual that covers 1987-1999. The frame has rusted just enough that the full serial number is no longer readable. I can read some numbers/letters, but it is spotty. Anyone know how to determine model and year if you cannot read the serial number? I have included photos.
      So it started fine when I got it home, but it would only stay running if the choke was open even when warmed up. No identification numbers are stamped on my Mikuni carb to determine specific model. The choke is controlled by cable connection on dash, so it is not a model that has the choke lever right on side of carb. Since it would only start and run with choke open, I decided to rebuild the carb using the OEM rebuild kit. Took it apart, cleaned jets, orifices, replaced o-rings, gaskets, etc. After reinstalling the carb, the engine will still only run with choke open, but now the engine sounds like it wants to shut off and there is a consistent low volume backfire from the muffler. If I rev the engine, it sounds better, but still continues backfiring.
      The fuel screw was seated at 2.5 full turns before I cleaned it so I put it back at that setting. 
      I’ve looked high and low trying to find a video of someone rebuilding my specific carb, but it appears there are many variations. Appreciate any guidance to get it back to running like it should. I have included photos.
      Any guidance on figuring out model year would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks for your time.  













    • By JustCrazyNoQuadNeeded
      'Gidday.  An issue I can't find discussed already - my Bear Tracker selects into 1st gear fine. Selects other forward gears fine too but all above 1st gear are slipping. Can select reverse but nothing engages/happens.
      Any ideas what I might be dealing with?
      Cheers,  Jim.
       
×
×
  • Create New...