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By cavry
O3 sat a while. Engine is running fine. I got it into neutral, did some general tune-up and cleaning then pulled the shifter pedal up and it locked up and will not release into neutral again. Does anyone have experience with this problem? Thanks for looking and any help.
Cavry
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By jay41198
I am missing a cdi box for my 1988 Suzuki quadrunner LT 4WD is there a rplacement box that i can wire into this bike to get it back running beings that the cdi box is no longer made
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By Shorty51
Good morning, I am new to the forum. I'm 75 years old and love getting ATVs back to usable condition. I particularly like the 2006-2009 Arctic Cat 250 Utility. I currently own 6. The 2006 I am working on only has reverse and low gear. The "drive shaft" in the transmission is completely stripped where the high gear would mesh. Has anyone on here replaced the shaft. I'm told I have to split the case. I was hoping that someone on here could let me know how hard it will be. I already have it stripped down to where the shaft coming in from the clutch side is the only thing left. I was hoping I could just remove the driven clutch and drive it out from there. Directions say different. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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By flyinbrian365
View File 2023 Yamaha RMAX4 Wolverine 1000 service manual
Factory service manual
2023 Yamaha RMAX4 Wolverine service manual
Submitter flyinbrian365 Submitted 06/08/2026 Category Yamaha UTV
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By LMI
Hi all. New to the forum & quads. Seems like a great place full of info.
I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700. I need a battery. I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types. I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire. RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140. Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS. How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
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