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New member here,
I have searched here and other places and have not found an answer to my problem. As the title says I have a 2014 420 Rancher that recently started having an issue were the revs before the clutch engages.
I have checked the oil level (per the service manual) and replace the Valvoline ATV 10w40(less than 5 hours) with 10W30 GN4 for good measure. I have used the "pin" method to pull a DTC. I shows a 8-1 which is a TPS error. This makes some sense, as if the computer doesn't read throttle position correctly, it could have this symptom. I have checked the source voltage, and tested the TPS off the quad with a Fluke and a power supply at 5v. It is smooth and does not seem to be a bad sensor. I am confused by the DTC, because the PS light blinks the code, not the check engine light. However, there are no PS codes of that value. This condition appeared after a couple days of driving in the cold (~32°) and driving though some water/bogs.
A couple questions. First has anyone seen this issue, and do you have any suggestions? I have followed the troubleshoot right up to the point of replacing the ECU, which I don't seem to have one on the shelf :)
Second, anyone used a OBDII reader with an a 4pin adapter to pull codes? If so, what system do you use?
Beyond the rev issue, the quad runs and starts perfectly and when it decides, the clutch grabs tight (no slipping)
Hey guys! Stoked to be here because ive found its pretty hard to get help for mini quads
I recently bought a mini quad (it's a piece of poop so i have no clue the make) and it ran perfectly fine. I was running it a few weeks ago all day and it worked fine and the next day when i went to start it, the kickstart bar was super hard to push down but i could still do it, then it would skip and finish off hard to push down.
I have fairly intermediate mechanic abilities so i was able to pull off the cover and start playing around. it seems the kickstart spring is fine but i noticed a bunch of metal shavings. long story short i posted pictures and took a video of how things are kind of running. i assume the gears started grinding and now they wont catch fully, hence the skipping?
Also, im aware the main gear on the left has broken teeth, i found out the hard way when i tried to take off the nut and the teeth broke.
IMG_7447.MOV IMG_7445.HEIC IMG_7446.HEIC
So I changed out the steel winch cable on my CForce 800-2 to a synthetic I had gotten when I had my old outlander and just never put it on. That wasn’t too difficult but I had to open up the hole in the spool a bit to get the tail thru. But I got it thru put the set screw back in and wound it up. It’s one of those Amsteel type cables, 50’ with an 8’ sliding protection sleeve on the hook end. And I put on an aluminum hawse with a rubber stopper and new hook. (Which is like the Warn Epic hook. Might be a little big. Haha ¯\_(ツ)_/¯)
And right before that, I pulled out the halogen headlights. Replaced them with these nifty dual color LEDs. (But because of the heat sinks on them I had to widen out the holes for the bulbs a little and then vacuum all the dust out of the light housing with an improvised headlight vacuum. Haha)
But they fit and the lights are yellow on regular beam and high beam switches them white).
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Had fire start in muffler due to failing fuel pump &/or fuel pressure regulator. Must I spend the $750+ for a new assembly from Arctic Cat?!? Here's what I've tried so far.
Replaced fuel pump & regulator - both from Quantum. PSI is 60 rather than the 42 the dealer advises it should be, so problem persists. I've now twice replaced the Quantum regulator & discussed w/ Quantum. They advise that they don't have an alternative regulator that would bring PSI down to 42. I've tried several in-line, adjustable pressure regulators but they either didn't work or I couldn't get a constant pressure from them. FYI, I've only tried the adjustable regulators for Fuel Injected engines however, it seems that they require vacuum to function properly. When I can temporarily get the PSI right, everything works great. Anyone else ever dealt with this problem, and, if so how did you fix it? Perhaps I should adapt the fuel system to include a gas tank return line?
Any insights are greatly appreciated, Don
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