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So this’ll be long I’ll give all the background first to see my issue skip to the ***
Hey I picked up a pit bike and a foreman for 800 the pit bike was running but the foreman was locked up. Sold the pit bike but when I took the top end off the piston I only found half a piston left. So knowing the rest of the piston was down in the crankcase I knew it had to be pulled and gone thru completely.
to pull the motor I went ahead and pulled the rear end off and unbolted the front diff to pull the drive shafts and pull the motor. Now I have the motor torn down completely and have all the parts of the piston removed. I know the rod and crankshaft is shot (heat discoloration and too much up and down play rod to crankshaft).
***so I’m wondering while I have the motor apart what should I check for? I know this motor died from heat as the oil in the head smelled like popcorn. So what should I check to make sure I fix the issue (overheating I assume) and not just the symptoms (blown up motor lol).
so put simply I don’t want to just rebuild the motor to have it overheat and repeat the process after 5mins of running
Here’s some pics
I've always been a craftsman tool guy because I worked for sears auto for about 10 years. I was in Lowes the other day and they have pretty much everything craftsman now, for some time. They'll even warranty old tools I'm told, like sears did. So I'm happy about that.
Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
Product warning: Lighting products manufactured by Larson Electronics LLC 9419 E US HWY 175, Kemp Tx. 75143
Hi, I’m G. Randel and I have a small business that does boat and motor service and repair and rigging. I also service and repair off road 4 wheelers, lawn equipment and small engines. I have been doing this type of work for over 40 years, so I have accumulated some knowledge about the accessories and products needed to support those things.
I recently installed two high intensity LED lights on the T-top of one of my customers boats. He bought the lights after he had done considerable research and consultation with manufacturers. He wanted to make sure he was getting something that would serve his needs which was to see where he was going at night while underway on the water. He decided on lights manufactured by Larson Electronics out of Kemp, Texas. They were reported to be rugged, weatherproof, waterproof to 3 meters and were warrantied against workmanship or component failure under normal use for 3 years. One light quit working within 10 months, the other is still working after about 16 months. I removed the defective light and sent it back to Larson Electronics for warranty repair or replacement and they denied the warranty claim. Their reason was “failure was due to environmental damage”.
At the time of purchase these lights sold for over #365.00 each and the representative that my customer talked to at Larson Electronics assured him that these lights were well suited for the purpose in which they were going to be used.
So, if you are looking for electronics, as in lighting, for your ATV, SUV. Boat, or any other outdoor application you might want to keep in mind that Larson Electronics LLC
9419 E US HWY 175, Kemp, TX 75143 might not fulfill their warranty claims if you have a problem with their products.
By Frank Angerano
Got out with the boy the last two weekends to do some riding and set up for hunting on the new property.
42 degrees this am up there! Set up some new tree stands and cameras to see what’s moving around last week. Got up to pull the card from the cams, well surprise surprise there were some big bucks running around!
Anyway back to the big city grind for another 5 days and we are out of here again Friday night!
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