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By canamKID
Anybody familiar with this noise from my quad? Just started. It temporarily goes away when I attempt to shift into another gear but shifting has gotten harder too.
Thanks
20260711_150338.mp4 -
By realpilot
I am unable to find a wiring diagram for this UTV. When I turn the switch to on, the contractor does not engage. The Brake pressure switch and the parking brake switches work correctly. What else should I be looking for? All of the diagrams I have found are for newer models and the wire color coding is different.
Thanks
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By OldATVowner
Just getting into this issue really. Been replacing solenoids but now I'd like to track down the problem. This time I'm not getting neutral/reverse lights or start button. Was on a creek ride when it started doing this recently. It cranks by arcing the solenoid and gives me no light or start button but if I crank with the pull cord....the neutral light and the button work. Turn it off and try to crank with the key and nothing. I'm looking into the safety switch issue tomorrow and re charging the battery. Just figured this was odd enough of a problem that you guys might be familiar. Thanks
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By Mikey509
Hey guys, so I've been messing with my quad, and between all the starts, the battery is dead. Is there a certain way to charge these? Can I just throw a trickle charger on it and call it a day? can i also jump it like a normal car with a battery pack or is that to much voltage
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By LMI
Hi all. New to the forum & quads. Seems like a great place full of info.
I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700. I need a battery. I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types. I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire. RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140. Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS. How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
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