Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

TheJester517

2001 TRX250EX Rear End Rebuild

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, about to start working on my step father's 2001 Honda TRX250EX Sportrax, I need help with the rear end. The quad runs and rides, but the tires wobble like crazy and I'm pretty sure it's the bearings, trying to get a manual

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



The wheel berings were bad on an old Honda that I picked up. The wabble like you said and also put a good beating on the nuts that hold the hub in place.  Try not to ride until you get the bearings replaced. The damage to the axles and the big nut that holds in in place (castle nut) was pretty significant. Although the axels were salvageable the bearings and nuts were shot but not hard to replace.  Lots of grease as well when reassembling.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks man, I got the service manual and took apart the whole rear, every set of bearings was shot, and I had a hell of a time getting the old races out of the swingarm on the left side. I just had the drum machined and I'm gonna put it back in in the next day or so and hopefully that solves the issue.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Curtis01
      OK, sooo  I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change...  This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it.  Runs like a top still...  Very few issues over the years after buying it used.
      But boy I wasn't expecting to see this!  Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material.  Nothing in the oil but that...  Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top.  Always has.
      Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip?  That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there.  But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have.
      The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even.  Been a really good lil workhorse...
      Any other ideas?

    • By billyz57
      New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
      1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
    • By bradleyheathhays
      '96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.

      So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.

      Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.

      Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?

      All ears
    • By Spike976
      So I dug my warrior out of storage replaced the carburetor with one off Amazon & it was running great. Last week it didn't want to start it would crank & I could smell gas but nothing. I replaced the starter,stator,solenoid,spark plug & coil & resistor but still not starting. Checked the stator and its at 30 ohms tried using starter fluid but nothing. I am completely lost and could use some help thank you
    • By robdoyle
      Hey guys, new owner here of a 2001 Honda Rancher 350 4x4 manual shift and I am loving this little machine so far! 
      However, the previous owner has mounted a Kimpex Nomad storage trunk/passenger seat and some random passenger pegs.  The side bars that carry the passenger pegs are only bolted to the cargo rack - the lower ends are not attached!  They end with a small triangular plate with a hole for a mounting bolt, but there is no place to bolt it to the Rancher foot peg - so they must have been designed for a different ATV.
      The Nomad is a pretty nice looking setup, but it has clearly overloaded the rear cargo rack and broke two of the rack mounting ears on the frame.  I am planning to take it all apart and repair the mounting ears and beef up the cargo rack.
      What is your opinion of running one of these "passenger seats" on this size of ATV? 
      Are there any potential problems besides exceeding the weight limit of the cargo rack?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...