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By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
On Wednesday, September 18, our ATV was stolen from in front of our house after the locks were cut. This was around 2-3:15 AM.
We realize the likelihood of ever finding the four-wheeler again is slim to none, but we had to try and put the word out there. We have put countless hours in to restoring this Banshee. It was more than just a passion project, it also was our investment for a down payment for our future house. We are devastated and beyond heart-broken. If you see any suspicious postings on Facebook Marketplace, Letgo, Craigslist, etc., or have any other information, please contact us or the Prince William County PD.
*Update* We received a tip last night that it was possibly posted on Facebook Marketplace around 8AM yesterday morning with only pictures of the front and of the back of the ATV. The description only said: PM for more details. This came up in someone’s FB Marketplace feed that has it set for a 50 mile radius from Hartwood, VA. She also has her feed set to automatically translate everything into Spanish, so It could also possibly be posted in Spanish.
WHAT WAS STOLEN:
2004 Yamaha Banshee YFZ 350
White plastics with bright green and pink graphics/stickers
Prince William County, Triangle, Virginia
$500 REWARD FOR INFORMATION LEADING TO RECOVERY. BONUS FOR CONVICTION.
The post Stolen From Our Front Porch – 2004 Yamaha Banshee YFZ 350 appeared first on STOLEN 911.
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Hi guys I have a 2003 Arctic 250 4X4 it starts idles and runs great for about 10 min. then it spits and sputters and dies but it starts right up like nothing happened idles good till you give gas and it does it again let off the gas and it's idling great again this goes on for about 15 to 20 min. and then it takes off runs good all day like nothing was wrong.
I cleaned the carburetor it looked like a new one inside found a little gunk in one orifice, new air filter no crimped lines air line to tank good I did put a meter on the battery idling it said 16.5 V that's high I think would a voltage regulator cause this?
Suzuki shop wanted to sale me a stator for $556.00 but said it could be something else also thought I'd see what you guys say about it
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Recently, I changed the timing chain. I lined up all timing marks and set valve lash at TDC. The mark on flywheel was on point as well when I looked through sight hole. I started the engine and starter turned it over then it hit and stuck. I did it one more time and the same thing happened. I took everything off and saw no damage. I tried to turn it over by hand and same thing. It turns halfway or so and hits. I loosened valve lash and took crank gear off and it does the same thing. It will turn over clockwise fully but not CCW. It seems like the crank sub assembly weight is hitting the gear balancer weight. I can turn crankshaft CCW while turning the gear balancer CW and get it to go but feel it hitting something. I also can spin crankshaft CCW without crank gear on and force the engine to break past the stick. It’s not the piston.
Please give me some suggestions thanks
I registered on this site because I just purchased a new to me 2005 Yamaha Bruin 250 2wd. This seems to be the only place to get diagrams so I'm hoping I can download them sooner or later. The guy I bought it from said it had no spark. And it truly does not have spark...lol
I haven't looked into much on it. Looks like he replaced the ignition switch and the stator. I'm thinking CDI box but I want to check the coil first.
I look forward to helping others out on the electrical end of the world. I am an ASE certified automotive electrical technician. If it's 12v, I can usually figure it out.
2005-2006 Yamaha 250YFM Bruin 2007-09 Yamaha BigBear 2WD
2005 - 2006 Yamaha 250YFM Bruin/2007 - 09 Yamaha BigBear 2WD
View File 2005-2006 Yamaha 250YFM Bruin 2007-09 Yamaha BigBear 2WD
Submitter oxidized_black Submitted 12/14/2016 Category Yamaha ATV
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