Quantcast
Jump to content

Quadzilla XLC 500 Engine Issues


Zilla28

Recommended Posts

While riding my Quadzilla XLC 500 I was cruising along about 60 mph then opened it up, but once I hit 70-75 mph it died on me so I rolled to a stop and it wouldn't start for about 20-30 seconds. I then noticed the Temp light occasionally flashes on but its so quick you wouldn't notice in the day so not sure how long its been happening. The engine has started pinging when I accelerate which can be caused by many things so I drained the fuel and replaced with hi octane, fitted a new spark plug, adjusted the little washer on the high jet in the carb twice to make it run more lean which made no difference.  I tested the thermostat which opens at the correct temperature, I removed the radiator cap and started the engine and no bubbles were showing and the oil is on maximum and very clean as I have not long serviced it.

The last time I took it out I went 14 miles and the coolant in the bottle has dropped about 1/2".

I am now leaning towards a head gasket and have purchased a full gasket kit but was wondering if there's anything else it could be before taking the engine apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Frank Angerano said:

Have you checked to see that the cooling fan is coming on ? And if so is the radiator clean ? Also look up and see if the engine shuts down on the hot side. When it’s at that point is it killing he engine. And btw dam that’s fast ! Slow down a bit brother! 

Yes the fan does come on but not every time and I have not had a close inspection of the radiator but it should be clean as I pressure washed it and have only used it on the road. I have no temperature gauge on my display so I can't see how hot its running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok great.  What about the water pump it could be possible that there is no circulation? You can buy an infrared thermometer and shoot the head to see temperature under the same circumstances. 

There can only be a few things going on here 

1. Thermostat 

2. Water pump

3. Cooling fan/temperature sensor that brings fan on.

If you have a bad head gasket the oil will be discolored (greyish) in the crank case and a lot of white smoke.  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But I don't know what its suppose to run at and what is classed as too hot. The thermostat is fine as I tested it and it opened at 71 degrees which is stamped on it. If the coolant on the tank has dropped by 1/2" after 14 miles of riding it must be going somewhere which is leading me to think the head gasket but im hoping its not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It’s not supposed to really go over 160 I would think on a good day. Have you checked the oil for color ? And also is there a leak you are not seeing ? And the water pump... you should see that coolant flowing with the cap off the radiator after it’s good and hot. If not I’m thinking the water pump. And the seal on the water pump as well and that’s why your loosing coolant. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've not checked the oil for colour, only looked at it on the dip stick. I will try and find time to check the water pump tomorrow as I do have a new water pump seal in my gasket set.

I just remembered, last time I warmed the engine up the pipe from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator was warm and I could hold it but the pipe from the top of the radiator to the engine was too hot to hold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea brother I think it’s a pump issue. Never know but that’s where my guess is. The good thing about these problems are the limited things it can be when it comes to a water cooled system so get after it and narrow it down so we can get this figured out and get back to riding!!!  Let us know how you make out.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK today I removed the water pump cover, dained the engine of coolant and turned the engine over and the impeller is spinning ok. The gasket on the cover was knackered but I didn't want to replace just that gasket as I had not seen any leak from the cover which makes me think it must be leaking internally. I have managed to remove some of the internals but cant get any further.

What I expected to take a few hours looks like its going to take much longer.

Do I need to split the crank case to remove the rest?

20181203_142858.jpg

20181203_152601.jpg

Crank.png

Edited by Zilla28
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was the impeller spinning or just the shaft?  I’ve seen the same thing and when the bike was being cranked the owner was able to hold the impeller and the shaft spun not the impeller  so make sure that the shaft and impeller are not slipping   

That back end of that shaft looks chewed up. What goong on in there ?

Heve yiu checked the oil ? Any coolant in there ? 

That seal on the back of that impeller looks shot and could be leaking fluid into the crank case.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I am aware the impeller was spinning with the shaft as it was locked on to the shaft, not overly tight but tight enough.

I saw some videos online of people removing the pump seal and the only way they could remove it was to prise it out with a screw driver so that's what I done, hence the reason it looks a mess.

The oil does look a little watery and I done a test with dropping the oil in a hot saucepan to see if it bubbled which it did, so this confirms there is antifreeze in the oil 😞 

20181203_173143.jpg

20181203_174230.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

OK, I have finally got somebody to change the head gasket on my quad and also needed to have the valves seated as one wasn't closing. All is now back together but when I took it for a test ride it's still pinging and the Temp light still flashes on.

I guess the engine will need to be taken out again and to split the crank to inspect the water pump? 

1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The water pump seal has also been replaced after me trying to remove it and making a mess of it. I am beginning to think it's something internal within the case that's making the impeller not function but im no mechanic so have no idea. Just very frustrating having only owned it for 5 months and its been off the road for a month.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the impeller was before (video posted above) but I didn't check the shaft.

I just removed the thermostat and took it for a 10 mile test ride, it's still pinging but I didn't notice the Temp light come on. I will have to check the shaft on the impeller tomorrow.

I notice the top pipe on the radiator gets very warm but the bottom pipe is hot. Surely it should be the other way around 🤔

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you took that bike for a 10 mile ride and the temp light didn’t come on and the bike didn’t over heat then it should be good.  I’ve seen instances where you have what’s called an “air bound” system.   It’s essentially a stuck airball in the system that takes a big push of water pressure to push it through the system.   Much like an air bound radiator in your  house on a hot water heating system.  Only difference is that home radiators have bleeders on them to get the air out.   It’s very posable that this happened.  So just keep an eye on it and you can look inside the radiator cap for fluid movement which will only happen after the thermostat  is open.  Take the cap off and start the bike and after about 10 min or so the water should start to flow.   Is the cooling fan coming on properly also ? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I let the bike idle from cold for 6 minutes to gently warm up, took it for a 10 mile ride and turned it off when I got back. After a few minutes I started it again letting it idle and the fan kicked in so I turned the quad off and let the fan do its job but it's the engine pinging which is worrying me as I can't afford to spend much more money on it if I end up knackering something else by riding it with a pinging engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I noticed the coolant in the radiator was filthy so I drained and flushed the radiator and checked the colour and spark on the plug which seems fine and also tested the water pump by touching the impeller when the engine was running and by removing the cap on the radiator I can see its pumping fine.

 

20190121_103913.thumb.jpg.d83fcb6896824d10044fa7167be549da.jpg20190121_104905.thumb.jpg.ec8d0ec11a95e4866ad4690c8f75afef.jpg20190121_135042.thumb.jpg.e4d0f6f37d44dddfde436dc1754a792e.jpg

 

I called Quadzilla and they said it must be a fueling issue.

As running lean can cause pre-ignition I adjusted the needle to run as rich as I could then took it for a 10 miles ride and still the engine is pinging. I added half bottle CVL turbo octane booster which is suppose to prevent pre-ignition but no luck.

 

20190121_134655.thumb.jpg.b5ef15cdf994a1b71d287d39cbf7bdd2.jpg20190121_165241.thumb.jpg.63c09c9e52cbeb044be03a6298183f0d.jpg

 

20190121_111543.jpg

Edited by Zilla28
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was a new plug.

I then set the jet so it was running richer and put a new slightly cooler plug in which came out very brown.

20190121_134655.thumb.jpg.b938587183f1075d7db0ebfdc5793ed4.jpg20190123_140003.thumb.jpg.ff1b9a920199448ce96e56664e3e19a7.jpg

Now I have leaned the jet off a bit, took the carb off and tried to give it a wash with petrol and blow it out but couldn't really get to much. I took it for a ride and the Temp light flashed once and the engine pinging is still there. Not quite as bad but still noticeable 😕 

20190123_153414.thumb.jpg.f914fcbcf650149c34c425dff87635a4.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow that’s a funky color plug.   So not to confuse the two, the temp light and the pinging are two separate issues and one should have nothing to do with the other.   

Having said that it seems like your slowly making improvements and getting it dialed in.  The only thing I can add at this point is to keep making small changes in the carb and get it as close as possible and keep track of the changes so you can go back should any new changes make things worse.  

As for the temp light thing it’s just a matter of coolant running through the system and creating dead/hot spots where the sensor is would be my guess. Especially since you said you took it out for a few 10 mile rides without over heating.   

I hope your keeping some tools and extra fluids like coolant out on these long rides. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I usually always ride with a backpack with all the tools I need for removing screws and adjusting the chain 🙂

I have just been reading about the carb settings and I may have found the issue. I remember when I removed the pilot jet I wound it all the way back in as (I think) it was already like that. I will have to remove the carb again and set it to 2.5 turns out which is factory setting. Hopefully this will cure the pinging, although it use to run fine when I bought it and before I took it out 🤔

Only one way to find out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Gwbarm
      Just aquired this Honda 4514. I had heard of them and seen them but had never really looked at one. Amazing machine from the 90s.
      It has a 14 HP inline 2 cylinder engine. A cute little fan like the old school cars had and a little radiator. It has a timing belt on the back of the engine running the cam and a water pump. Just like a miniature car engine with  electronic clutches to turn blades on and off. Pretty hight tech for the 90s not a small thing and built like a tank weighs in at 600 pds hydrostatic trans. I have found out that almost anything you have to do to it the engine has to come out starter timing belt water pump. Very expensive parts i think most got junked for that reason, i did find out they were built by John Deere except for the honda engine.
      Does anyone here have any expierience with these. 
    • By USRaider
      Hello all!
      I was given a 2000 Suzuki Quadrunner 500 (Quad 500 Runner?) and its current state is a bit of a mystery!  
      Kept indoors but hasn't been run in 5 years.  We're not trying the engine until the gas is replaced, and the tires are reinflated. But the previous owner said their only issue was stalling when shifting to reverse without giving some throttle.
      I'm optimistic!  See y'all around!
    • By mga
      My 2000 big bear 400 4x4 has 26x10x12 tires in front and 26x12x12 in the rears. Trying to find replacement tires those sizes are hard to find, or, when i do, they cost a lot more than i want to spend.
      But, there's a lot of 25" tires out there the same size, just 25" and not 26". If i got the 25" it should not make a difference....right?
    • By tater
      Hey all, I have a new to me RSX850i that has a lot of exhaust smell in the cab and seems overly loud. I did check the pipes to the can and they seem tight, but you can't see much as they have a heat shield on them. Looking online these machines are loud in the cab to start with, but not too many posts regarding broken pipes and or exhaust smell in cab.
    • By flyinbrian365
      The files it too large to upload so here's a link to my dropbox.
      https://www.dropbox.com/s/boeo3kewqeuj7td/2016-20 SXS Pioneer 1000M3-M3P-M3LE-M5P-M5D-M5LE service manual.pdf?dl=0
      https://www.dropbox.com/s/z6kjj2to6yyneip/2015 SXS 500M2 Pionneer service manual.pdf?dl=0
       
      Hope this helps someone!!
       
×
×
  • Create New...