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By Chase Cook
I have a 2001 yamaha yfm350x and it has a brand new top end, new carburetor (stopped the leaking problem and is now getting gas to it), new CDI box, new stator, handlebar switches work, off-and-on switch works, new starter solenoid (works), new neutral relay (works), ordered a new Rectifier on its way, good strong blue spark. Has compression, valves are right. Timings is right and is TDC. When I try to start it it just makes a loud popping noise like its backfiring but it's not because its not running when I push the throttle all the way and when i barly push the throttle it try to start but won't, so I'm trying to figure out what could be the problem not starting now, Getting very fustrated with this thing and put some work and money into it and it's not still not working. This is the only atv I ever had that I can not figure out the problem to get running. Need help please..
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
By Chase Cook
I have a 2001 yamaha warrior YFM350x and started to work on it. The person who I got it from put a new top end kit in it. I already took the top end off and checked, brand new still. Had to clean the valves so it can get better compression. Put it back together and turned it over and and made good compression but also had a loud clanking noise at the bottom, put hand over carb and stopped making the noise when I turned it over. And won't start. I know it is not the top end. Just cleaned it and valves. Need help trying to figure out what's the problem.. thinking it's the crank rod but don't know. If it is the rod can i just get a new rod for it?(would be great if so). Or does it need a hole bottom end . In need of help.
By Alois Specht
Hi there , have a KAZUMA 500 JAGUAR the rear diff is permanently locked , how can I get it out of lock just about tried everything I think, ?? . Thank you your help is appreciated.
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