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Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was.
Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated.
Well I finally decided on the trailer to fit my needs , i decided on the “ Yutrax “ trailer, watched a few good reveiws on it , reasonable price , I ordered it online through my local tractor supply.
Hauling brush, and general on the property use , its for offroad only ,looks like a great trailer for chores on property
By Frank Angerano
So I decided to pick up a small trailer if I could get one for the right price. I found this one for a few hundred bucks on Craig’s list. It is a galvanized trailer which is exactly what I was looking for. The wood was shot and needed some minor repairs which I could care less about as long as the chassis was good.
I striped it down and put a new deck on. I had some vinyl realtree graphics that I had laying around so I added them to the fenders which I think worked out well. Very happy with this little guy.
I'm having the iron workers at my jobmake me up a few lightweight side rails that will have a 22 degree bend in them to accommodate the tires that slightly hang over the edge and will incorporate some tie down points as well.
I recently purchased the subject UTV for my kids. It's my first Polaris (other wheeler is a Teryx4) - and my first-ever single-cylinder vehicle (even my mower has more)...
Valve lash adjustment values... The operating manual recommends verifying at specific intervals, but does not provide the clearances or procedure. Any idea where I can obtain those? Tach on the display shows about 1500RPM when at idle, and about 6000 when WOT at max speed (30MPH). Does that seem correct? The engine does not SOUND like it's going that fast, but that may just be my unfamiliarity with single-cylinder engines. The idle feels mildly rough - and the tach shows a fluctuation of about 50 rpm. It's not wild, but it is noticeable. Again, without any point of reference, I do not know if that's just the nature of the beast, or if I should be concerned. The front wheels spin freely in the forward direction (mild brake noise can be heard), but when rotating tires backwards, the brake pads grab the rotor with significant force - making it nearly impossible to turn the rotor by hand. Considering the cost of new rotors and calipers, I'm hoping there is a know 'fix' for this issue. Any help would be appreciated! My kids can't wait for me to give it the "all clear". Still waiting on helmets to arrive from Amazon, so I have a couple of days to get all the maintenance and repairs completed.
Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
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