Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Shane76

2007 Honda Foreman 500ES won’t downshift

Recommended Posts

Foreman 500 electric shift won’t downshift unless you turn the quad off and turn the key back on. Then it will downshift. Anyone ever have the same problem and know of a fix?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Are you getting any codes on the dash? 

Unfortunately with these bikes there are quite  a few things it could be and most likely one or two in particular. 

First off is take all the plugs off and check for moisture.  Get some dialectric grease and apply it to the inside of each connection before you plug them all back In. 

Second thing and the most likely culprit is the angle sensor, it’s located at the rear lower section of the motor.   It has a plug going to it most likely grey. The wires on it are blue, yellow maybe brown as well and a black.   This sensor may be bad.  

Third may be the sensor on the carburetor if it’s carborated.  It’s called a throttle positioning sensor. And some times the screws loosen up and it moves. It’s located on the side of the carburetor and has a plug as well. Two screws hold it in place and you will find slots where the screws are to adjust it. But be sure you mark it before you move it so you can re set it where it was should it need to go back to that spot.  

There is the mechanism that changes the gears   It’s a small motor  sometimes the brushes act up in the motor. 

The battery is also a big factor as far as voltage goes. Make sure your battery is up to par. 

You should be able to find all of this info and the exact location on your bike in the manual. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What you need to do is check your voltage to the shift motor when trying to down shift, if you have voltage will need to check brushes inside of shift motor And also check the grease on the gears. If there is no voltage will need to check resistance to angle sensor and sensor itself. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Thanks I will check that stuff out.  The tps sensor on the carb looks like its riveted on. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That would suck should that be the problem.  Most likely not but still wtf? Why rivet something into a carb that may need replacement down the road.  Makes no sense.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I would check the idle first- had a friend that has a recon es and his wouldnt shift out of reverse unless you turned it off- simply because the idle was too high and the clutch wasnt disengaging.  Turned the idle down, been working like a champ since

Also, when did it first start this?  Any event that might have caused it like taking it through water (maybe go into the shifter motor or something...)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Dwight Williams
      I have a 99 Kodiak 400 4X4 that I picked up for $300.  The previous owner had modified the foot shifter by welding a piece of rebar to it so he could hand shift while plowing.  As you can imagine, the allows for much more torque on the shifter than it was designed to have, and he broke the stopper off of the the shift mechanism.  No big deal, I ordered the part and put it back together, went through the carburetor and off we go, it runs pretty good.  
      The first thing I noticed is that when I put the shifter all the way down it goes into reverse, I'm supposed to twist a knob to get it to reverse but this seems to be disabled.  Also, once in reverse, it's a bugger to get back out.  I have to hold the shifter up, then quickly back down and up again to get it to come out.  All forward gears work fine, clutch is tight, no problems.
      The reverse cable and lever are in tact and seem to move freely.  
      My question is this:  What does one normally have to do to get this thing into reverse?  I assume put it in neutral, twist the knob, kick the shifter down.  Does the brake need to be applied?  I'm not sure what's going on here, I suspect it's been 'modified' as it goes into reverse without the proper precautions, just not sure if the mods were external on internal.
       
      thanks
    • By Steve Howard
      Ran find shut down the quad next day would start and idle when you try to accelerate it would start popping through the carb got a rebuild kit soaked it in chem clean after break down for 12 hours on slow vibrate reassembled and adjusted per manual still the same thing any help would be really appreciated thanks and happy ridding  
    • By Venom
      Hi All,
      I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...

    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
    • By gouletp
      When it is  cold outside, say 35 deg F and colder, it is very difficult to shift to Reverse from neutral.  Engine temp doesn't have an effect.  I apply the brakes hard with the hand lever and the foot pedal.  In another post I read that high idle can affect shifting when the engine temp is warm. 
      I will try it with lower idle speed once I find the screw.  In the interim, can you tell me if there is some sort of adjustment for the shifter?
      Thank you
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...