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I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
By Scott Sirr
I need to figure out how to clean/fix or replace my neutral switch assembly On my 2008 Yamaha big bear 400 as generally the neutral light doesn’t come on when it is in neutral. To get it to come on I have to wiggle the foot shifter and hold it in just the right spot.
I have googled it and can’t find much on the 400’s. I can’t find a service manual online and the parts manual is super vague.
I think it is in the right side engine cover area, but not certain.
Any help would be great. thanks
By Bronson Weddle
I have a 1999 250 Yamaha bear tracker was told it needed a coil to run got into it to day found out that the kill switch was wired together then I found were they put a new cdi on it they cut all the plugs off the stator wires and the cdi wires I found bits and pieces of wireing diagrams blue pick up wire to red and white green wire to white and green wire rolled it over Had a test light on the coil wire it showed there was juice going to it but no spark on the plug and the coil is a brand new one put it on before trying to test the spark did I miss something or have something hooked up wrong already have plans on a new cdi and stator and pick up coil before I go that far like to hear it run. Thank you for the help in advance
By Andrew Baker
I need help with wiring on a 1998 (I think, 10th digit of the VIN was W) Bayou. I'm not getting spark, I'm pretty sure it is due to grounds being off because the harness is pretty hacked as far as the electric start and charging system goes. I'm needing a good wiring schematic. I found one online and there are a few things that don't add up on it so I'm skeptical that it is really for my year and model. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Just picked up a BB for $650 as the PO just threw in the white towel. There is no spark with either the electric start or pull start. The stator is new, new battery, new key switch, new plug.
I have gone over every wire and cleaned everything and checked all I could with multimeter.
I'm stumped myself why I wouldn't get any spark with theh pull start.
Could this be the pickup coil?
wires coming out of stator are red and white, green and brown, and 3 yellow wires
I get continuity from red and white but nothing from green and brown or the yellows
Its a hair puller and hoping its just the pickup coil and not the cdi
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By Gary Ferguson
My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck.
Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again.
Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short.
Here are my readings:
Source coil- 325 ohms
Pickup coil- 225
Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next?
I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!!
Gary in SC
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
By Wolf Studios
Hi guys so I'm looking for any help or advice with a yamaha big bear 350 1997 (i think) it's fairly dirty and just been say for many years, boss says it's a non runner and I've tried and it will not start, ideally would love to do it up and get it running but have been told the engine has gone, cannot find a new engine anywhere. Anything I should check first before just taking the entire thing apart?
Working on my oldest son's buddy's 2000 Big Bear. He was having some power loss at WOT so i thought it worth while to clean the carb and put at kit in it...or at least clean the OEM jets and use the new orings that come in the kit. It starts and idles like a champ, but dies and wants to backfire with any throttle at all. I assume lean because it will run decent with the choke on. Air screw adjusted fine, nice crisp idle. This one has fuel/air screw, low speed jet, mid jet, and main jet. I was assuming just trash in the low speed circuit so pulled it and cleaned again, still does the same.
Two questions I guess:
1. Does it sound most likely trash in the off idle circuit? This one has a few more passages and jets than I'm used to...and a darn diaphragm.
2. It now really wants to leak at the bowl drain screw. It doesn't seem to tighten enough to completely stop the flow. Seat looks good, screw was dirty but cleaned up fine with a touch of 2000 grit paper. First for me. Any idea here?
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