Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm working on a 95 300 kingquad and wondering about the aftermarket carbs. There sure is a price spread -is the OEM recommended or is 'cheap' ok.Off shore are way cheaper but is the quality that bad

Thoughts

IMG_20190510_135053.jpg

Posted

The cheaper carbs look, fit, and will work to get the bike running.  The minute you take off and ride  the bike starts to sputter and break down.  You will spend hours trying to dial it in with very frustrating results.  

Not worth the aggravation. 

What’s wrong with the OEM carb? It looks like it’s all there.   Take it apart and rebuild it.  

Posted

if you replace the valve seals, I would recommend new valves as well as the old ones sometimes have a hard time re-setting into the head.  Also, I have had two bikes with aftermarket carbs and am satisfied with how they perform.  I say they are worth a shot at least, but @Frank Angerano and@06kfx440 have much more experience than i do.

Posted
4 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Good idea by rebuilding.   Nothing like the real deal. If you need any help let us know.  Take a compression reading and see how that goes.   Maybe just valve seals might be in order.   

gotta get the proper adapter for my compression tester - the universals got dry rot :) . Its been over 30 years since I used it.. I got an 'All Balls ' rebuild kit directly from the Suzuki dealer. Now I got to wait to find a manual to get the settings.

6 hours ago, 06kfx440 said:

I would say for your best bet, buy oem. You can't go wrong. Off shore carbs work but you'll never truly dial it in.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

Well I went to the dealer and he suggested the All Balls rebuild kit so I picked one up

Posted
4 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

if you replace the valve seals, I would recommend new valves as well as the old ones sometimes have a hard time re-setting into the head.  Also, I have had two bikes with aftermarket carbs and am satisfied with how they perform.  I say they are worth a shot at least, but @Frank Angerano and@06kfx440 have much more experience than i do.

oood points Jacob Tx

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Wow thats great.  What did you wind up doing on that.  You have to be super careful with that situation  to not bark the corner off. If you can’t get a screw that fits then carefully drill it out and use a small screw with a nut and lock washer.  

Posted

used a electricians tri tap to gradually learn it's threads -it's all good. I put it on this morning and the blue smoke is gone but the carbs popping (lean?) and reving too high with the idle adjuster not even touching the cam. This is where I ask for help. Attached a small clip of her purring. Off to town but going to bring back some refreshments and work on it this afternoon. Hopefully one of you fine gentlemen will have a solution for me..Cheers

Posted

Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse.  What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point  then turn the screw back Just a hair. 

If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs. 

 

 

Posted

That's the problem, the idle cam isn't touching the adjustment screw but it's revving to high...

1 hour ago, Frank Angerano said:

Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse.  What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point  then turn the screw back Just a hair. 

If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs. 

 

 

 

Posted

1.5  / 1.75 turns approximately. Took it for a boot yesterday and it is very responsive to the throttle and idles about 800(by ear) so I think I'm good ? I'll do a little vid today.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By kawasig
      Hello there
      I'm having a problem finding a quality carburetor for a 1993 Suzuki Quad Runner lt-f 250 2x4. I find a lot that have 3-4 star ratings. And all so far don't have the right throttle Cable inlet at the top. The last one I got 4 star on Amazon has a threaded cable sheath rest that could be partially drilled to work. I would prefer to get one I don't have to modify. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!
    • By captnunu
      I have a 2007 kingquad 450 fuel injection. I try to start it with the hand crank and almost flip over the quad. I have taken the hand crank off and cleaned it but this did not fix the problem. I believe there is a decompression valve that is supposed to engage when pulling it over by hand. How can I check this?
    • By Zrach
      I wanted to share a successful workaround for a "no-spark" issue on a 2009 LT-A400.
      This is specifically for cases where the CDI has been diagnosed as faulty, but the age or condition of the machine makes the cost of a brand-new OEM unit hard to justify.
      Note: This modification compromises the factory “no-start” circuits.
      On some malfunctioning CDI units the internally damaged circuitry is only partial.
      Feeding full time power to the Parking Brake pin, the unit is triggered to bypass the internal fault and produce a healthy consistent output to the Ignition coil.
      The Modification
      See the second diagram attached below for the wiring specifics.
      The Result:
      The machine has clocked over 1,000km since this repair and is still running strong with no ignition dropouts.
      ⚠️ IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNING ⚠️
      Please be aware that this modification compromises the factory safety "no-start" circuits.
      The machine will now start in gear. The safety interlock involving the handbrake is no longer functional. The machine can move unexpectedly if the starter is pressed while in gear. Proceed at your own risk. If you sell the machine or let others ride it, ensure they are fully aware that these factory safety buffers have been removed.
      Faulty CDI Workaround.pdf
    • By Callaway
      I am trying to diagnose a no spark issue with my 02 Big Bear 400 and I am really hoping it is not a CDI.  I have done the test on the stator and I believe that is faulty.  I ordered a new aftermarket one from a the jungle website and it tested bad right out of the box so I am waiting for a different one to arrive from an ATV parts supplier.  I started looking out of curiosity at CDI units and it seems if it is for a big bear you are SOL.  Kodiaks, no problem.  Big Bear. No such luck.  
    • By TravisCr
      A year or so back bought a used 2003 Polaris Sportsman 700 Twin with a plow for keeping the gravel road around the house snow free-
      I've used it for the last year and it works well- have a bit of water in the oil I started a separate thread on.

      Are there any "gotcha" on using these things with plows?
      I took off the small polaris winch and added a Warn 2500, with synthentic rope so I wasn't getting poked by the wire-
      Looking for folks thoughts on these.
×
×
  • Create New...