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By cameron walton
Hi Guys, I'm a newbie but pretty handy with a DMM (controls technician). I have been fighting a junker quad i picked up as a project bike, was assured it would run if I replaced the battery and cleaned the carb. I replaced the battery, rebuilt the carb with a OEM kit. FIxed all my switches and foul played circuitry from the last guy.... So I could get it to start long enough to test the quad, it seems okay from a trans/engine point. However I couldn't get the carb adjusted to idle to save my life with the idle air screw or the thumb screw on the card for the slide. I took it to a friend who is much more familiar with yamaha and quads and he double checked my carb rebuild all was fine, he adjusted the float to make the fuel not overfill which i missed.
He pulled the air intake, got it started and couldn't get it to idle with or without air filter. We started looking at the spark plug (new) and he tested it with a spark plug clamp meter, tested good, pulled it and grounded and it had spark but he felt it was weak. I order a working used oem coil to try the easy things first. When I ohm out the coil on the quad with my Fluke i'm seeing .4 ohms on primary (ground lug to male connector) and 18K ohms on secondary (inside boot to ground lug). Seems like this forum is full of bear trackers so I'm hoping someone has some ideas to help me figure where to go with this. His thought was he know I ave fuel and he knows I have air, spark would be next. I have spark but possibly weak. Thanks
By Stacy Hanks
I have 2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 - igniton relay and starter relay both were replaced also the neutral switch indicator was replaced-- bike will not show light on for neutral or start when button is pushed
I know this tooic has been addressed by many, I’ve looked through many forums and pages. I did not find anything like the problem i have.
I have a 2007 Kingquad 450. I have a new fully charged battery. When i turn the key, the dash flashes and seems to struggle before getting fully lite. We can hear a small relay near the computer clicking, i think it is the fuel pump relay. When i turn off the engine kill switch and press the starting button relays click and all the power shuts off, i turn the key off, engine kill switch then start over, power is there. Atv will start with pull start, but not elextricly. if i try to use my winch, all power cuts and engine dies.
Can anyone tell me what it may be? or has anyone fsced an issue like this before?
By Paul Maple
I have a 1999 Sportsman 500, it was running fine, than started to lose power in the winter, I adjusted the idle screw and away I went, than a few weeks ago it died, I have found that i am flooding the engine, compression was at 70PSI and due to the compression release mech. i assume i am good as it compared to the same PSI on a 2000 sportsman 500 i have. i cannot start the atv unless i go full throttle and it starts an runs for about 30 sec than dies, again it is flooded. i ordered a new carb off ebay as i could get one for around $40. put that in same issue, i have checked the timing, (good), valves out of adjustment i adjusted to .006 still same issue, i have found the exhaust lobe and rocker arm to have some wear, i have ordered new ones, but am looking for any other input in this area as well. would the exhaust cam and rocker arm cause the engine to flood? i have used a bore scope and the piston liner has good cross hatching still? any input would be great.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
OK, sooo I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change... This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it. Runs like a top still... Very few issues over the years after buying it used.
But boy I wasn't expecting to see this! Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material. Nothing in the oil but that... Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top. Always has.
Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip? That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there. But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have.
The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even. Been a really good lil workhorse...
Any other ideas?
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be.
It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
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