Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Ed Zeppeli

KQ 300 Choke Cable adjustment

Recommended Posts

 

The play on my KQ 300 (1998) choke doesn't allow for the full movement downward on the thumb lever. So it goes about halfway down and if I push a little too far the cable pops out of the plastic setting it sits inside of. Then of course I have to take the control unit apart and put it back into position.

 

Is it normal for the thumb lever to not go all the way down?

 

I have no play left in the adjustment screw on the cable in the correct direction. The only play I have left would make it worse.

 

It'a a new-to-me quad so I'm not sure if it's a replacement cable or OEM.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


It's a cable issue. It stretched. I'd replace it with oem but aftermarket sometimes works. While your at it. Replace the choke guide as well. Might as well do it since you'll be in there

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply.

 

If the cable had stretched, wouldn't the thumb lever get full play but the choke wouldn't be fully engaged though?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Andrew Baker
      I need help with wiring on a 1998 (I think, 10th digit of the VIN was W) Bayou. I'm not getting spark, I'm pretty sure it is due to grounds being off because the harness is pretty hacked as far as the electric start and charging system goes. I'm needing a good wiring schematic. I found one online and there are a few things that don't add up on it so I'm skeptical that it is really for my year and model. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. 
       
    • By 06kfx440
      . That’s 2 7 20
       
       
      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • By Dra O
      Looked at this one-owner 1998  454 today.  Pics below.  Do you see TONS of cash being tossed into this thing?  I like the low miles but I don't like the electrical "arrangement."
      1360 miles - one owner that used it for hunting - owner said it has been outside, as is, for 5-6 years (he originally told me 10 years).
      -a marine battery charges EVERYTHING (I didn't think this was possible) - he did this primarily for the wench  - a charged 12v battery didn't turn anything on the instrument panel - a charged marine battery would help but I didn't have one in my back pocket
      -no oil detected after taking off cap and I put my finger in DEEP.  no gas in tank.  brake fluid reservoir not dried up but has dark/old fluid
      -tires w/ good tread but cracking walls - some rims rusted but appear to be straight           -air box dry but filter old/useless       -original carb - didn't take out to inspect
      -foot shifter felt good/cycled through the gears      -pull start worked but I failed to check for spark
      -and then there's the WIRES... and WIRES... and WIRES.   Basically neuroanatomy 101.  More like Arctic Cat Nightmare 101.  New wiring harness on ebay runs around $70 - but this guarantees nothing.
      But the plastics are good
      Thoughts and opinions welcomed.  "Run away" -- "You're an idiot if you pay more than $XX for that piece" -- "Don't even THINK about it"
      Pictures below - may involve a second/third page
       
       





      more pics





    • By Gunny
      Hey, Hey, Hey ... I'm lov'in winter ...... ... Hope you enjoy the video !! 
       
       
       
      ...
    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...