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I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
I have a Yamaha Timberwolf 250 2x4 that I purchased a while ago as a project. I fixed it up to where everything was working great in my opinion, however when I showed it to a potential buyer he complained about a vibration from the rear drive shaft. (Which I ridiculous seeing as he tried to wheelie it before that) Anyways I took the rear diff apart and found most of the seals and bearings where bad. So I bought a kit off of amazon only to find that it doesn’t have all of the bearings and seals. After finding that I decided to try to find a used good condition replacement but they’re all to expensive for me so is there a better alternative for me, or can someone point me in the right direction to get the rest of the parts?
Looking for Yamaha ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Yamaha ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Yamaha ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.
The following Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
Hi, I just bought a used 1990 warrior and the rear is sagging low like it has a lowering kit but I’m not sure, does anyone know what it could be?
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