Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Been slow in starting up, in the recent past it would start up in <1/2 second of the button press with a snap. Now it takes several seconds of cranking to get going. Once going runs as it always did. Replaced the plug no change. battery is good.

Before I tear it apart and look things over was hoping others might have had the same experience and have a quick fix for me

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions to get this old machine starting quickly again as it has for 20 years.  

Posted

Probably needs a valve adjustment would be my guess.   You can check this by taking a simple compression test. I would also check the fuel delivery system. Maybe a little bit of dirt caught up in the needle where the float is. This could cause The gas from getting up into the intake port of the carb.  

You could have gotten some bad or dirty gas.

Hows the gas in the bike fresh ? Is the tank clean and maybe a fuel filter if you clean the carburetor. 

Last thing is make sure there are no leaks on the intake boot where the carburetor is mounted and make sure your vent hose on the gas cap is clear.   

Posted

Might be a valve adjustment - don't believe its ever been done - Will try a compression and leak down test this afternoon

Always used fresh gas with NO alcohol - only thing is that it's 91 only way to get no alcohol around these parts 

Will also take a close look at the carb

Anyone know what the KV of the spark should be?  I have a Pico Scope with the pressure transducer for so can easily see the compression, spark amplitude, dwell, etc..  

Strange this starting issue happened almost overnight about a week ago - Guess it's time to get my hands dirty 

Posted

My guess would be a fuel delivery issue that can be solved with a good carburetor cleaning and add a fuel filter as well.   But I’m sure a valve adjustment is long overdue.  

As far as spark goes if you can clearly see a good spark when you pull the plug and test it then you don’t usually need to dig deeper into that.  

Might as well double check your timing as well while your adjusting the valves. 

Posted

Our 1990 Fourtrax 300 starts instantly in less than a full crank. But our 1985 250 cranked on and on but it would start quicker if we shook the machine. It ended up being a plugged screen in the sediment bowl on the bottom of the fuel shutoff valve. It wasn't getting a good fuel flow to the carburetor. 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By LMI
      Hi all.  New to the forum & quads.  Seems like a great place full of info.
      I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700.  I need a battery.  I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types.  I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire.  RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140.  Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
      from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS.  How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
      And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
    • By Jdeaton011989
      Hi all. I have a timberwolf 250 2nd that will not start.. I thought it was out of time bc the guy I got it from said it just quit on him. The tensioner had a nut welded to it and it was like2 teeth off. I installed new tensioner and chain and it still will not start. It has fire and it will not hit off brake cleaner. It has compression. Haven't put a gauge but I'm sure it will crank and run with what it has. I double checked my work and it's still in time. Spot on. Both valves move. I'm about to put a feeler gauge on them and I'll cone back but other than that any ideas?
    • By HoldenBoy
      Hi all,
      Looking for some help on a starter/bendix issue. Can Am outlander 450 2017. While cranking to start, the starter spins and engages into the ring gear. After a few seconds the bendix retracts while still spinning and there is no damaged teeth on the drive pulley.
×
×
  • Create New...