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View File 2009 Polaris Ranger 700 4X4 Crew / 6X6 Service Manual
2009 Polaris Ranger 700 4X4 Crew / 6X6 Service Manual
Submitter Ajmboy Submitted 10/31/2020 Category Polaris UTV
2009 Polaris Ranger 700 4X4 Crew / 6X6 Service Manual
I recently purchased the subject UTV for my kids. It's my first Polaris (other wheeler is a Teryx4) - and my first-ever single-cylinder vehicle (even my mower has more)...
Valve lash adjustment values... The operating manual recommends verifying at specific intervals, but does not provide the clearances or procedure. Any idea where I can obtain those? Tach on the display shows about 1500RPM when at idle, and about 6000 when WOT at max speed (30MPH). Does that seem correct? The engine does not SOUND like it's going that fast, but that may just be my unfamiliarity with single-cylinder engines. The idle feels mildly rough - and the tach shows a fluctuation of about 50 rpm. It's not wild, but it is noticeable. Again, without any point of reference, I do not know if that's just the nature of the beast, or if I should be concerned. The front wheels spin freely in the forward direction (mild brake noise can be heard), but when rotating tires backwards, the brake pads grab the rotor with significant force - making it nearly impossible to turn the rotor by hand. Considering the cost of new rotors and calipers, I'm hoping there is a know 'fix' for this issue. Any help would be appreciated! My kids can't wait for me to give it the "all clear". Still waiting on helmets to arrive from Amazon, so I have a couple of days to get all the maintenance and repairs completed.
Hi, I'm new to ATV/UTV's and am looking for any advice that would help to repair my 2018 Ranger 500. I got it from an insurance auction and have never owned one before.
It looks like it was sunk deep. Found rocks and sand in the roof, milky oil in the air filter box, water in the fuse box, etc.
So far, I've cleaned the air box out, vacuumed most of the rocks and sand, checked the engine, trans and diff casings for cracks/leaks.
The battery would not charge while connected so I know there is some short somewhere...probably the wet fuse box.
I plan on drying out the fuse box and all connectors with a hairdryer tomorrow, check the fuses, remove/dry out the ECM and disassemble/clean the air intake. Then install the battery and see if i can get it to key on and see what kind of lights I get.
Need to know what to expect with the engine/trans...
So, I got this 07' Polaris Outlaw 90 in the shop to rebuild top end and transmission. Replaced all bearings and gears in the transmission. Replaced cylinder and piston with brand new parts. Put the engine back on the frame and fired it up. Started great, but had a taping sound in the lower crank case. pulled the flywheel cover off and found the flywheel was wobbling and hitting the stator. I then replaced the stator and flywheel with brand new parts. Timing is all set on the timing marks now, but when I turn it over it kicks back when it fires and ends up stripping the starter idler gear. I've replaced the starter gear once already and now have to replace it again. Is it possible that the timing marks on the flywheel are off or maybe this flywheel is not for this exact model? Thinking of advancing the timing to try it, but don't want to keep going through idler gears.
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After purchasing a lightly used 2018 570SP (300 miles on it) I noticed that the display was flashing on and off. I remember reading awhile back that this was a common problem on the 18 model. I can't remember what the fix is. It also turns over slow even though the battery is charged. Anybody know what the fix is on this issue?
So this’ll be long I’ll give all the background first to see my issue skip to the ***
Hey I picked up a pit bike and a foreman for 800 the pit bike was running but the foreman was locked up. Sold the pit bike but when I took the top end off the piston I only found half a piston left. So knowing the rest of the piston was down in the crankcase I knew it had to be pulled and gone thru completely.
to pull the motor I went ahead and pulled the rear end off and unbolted the front diff to pull the drive shafts and pull the motor. Now I have the motor torn down completely and have all the parts of the piston removed. I know the rod and crankshaft is shot (heat discoloration and too much up and down play rod to crankshaft).
***so I’m wondering while I have the motor apart what should I check for? I know this motor died from heat as the oil in the head smelled like popcorn. So what should I check to make sure I fix the issue (overheating I assume) and not just the symptoms (blown up motor lol).
so put simply I don’t want to just rebuild the motor to have it overheat and repeat the process after 5mins of running
Here’s some pics
these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
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