Quantcast
Jump to content


Clutch slip - ever tried a little more pressure?


MarkinAR

Recommended Posts

Passing thought here and thought I'd pitch it to the group for debate.  I'm working through a Kodiak which is basically a Big Bear in a heavier bike and the same as about anything Japanese made for 30 years as far as clutch function and design goes.  This Kodiak is odd though in that the centrifugal clutch slipped a bit with good clutch material remaining and the main clutch pack seems to slip a bit as well at high RPM but also still has good clutch material left.  Much like the Kawa race bikes from what I've read.  Do you think it's an option to add a thin washer to the pressure bolts to put a bit more pressure on the main clutch and force it to use a bit more of the clutch material before having to replace?  There's seriously like 50% of fiber left on the main clutch pack and it seems silly to replace it all before it's truly worn down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Given that the clutch packs are maybe 1/8th of an inch thick and those have lasted 26 years, i would think 1/16th of an inch might buy a couple of years.

Just thinking outside of the box.  It just doesn't make sense that it would be slipping with 50% of clutch material left; but it doesn't seem to be all that unusual.  Just seems like odd planning on Yamaha's part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've read the kFX450 wears out at 50% and you need to put stronger springs in it so it doesn't do it again. That's where I'm getting the idea that maybe the kodiak is the same. The 220 bayou though would grab fine with just enough fiber remaining to cast a shadow. Crazy how they are about all the same but have little behavior quirks. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, XWrench3 said:

if it is the clutch PACK slipping, then yes, a set of washers may help for a while. stronger springs would be a better choice.  it also could just be improperly adjusted.  but if its the centrifugal clutch slipping,  you may be out of luck. 

Centrifugal clutch I regrooved and worked the drum smooth. Seems to pull fine until you hit WOT so I'm pretty sure it's a clutch pack issue. Thanks for the input. I'll try readjusting when it's back together and if that doesn't work shim the springs a bit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Update on this one: rear ujoint on the front driveshaft took a crap, got the yoke in a bind, and dropped the middle drive gear on the ground, shredded the yoke, snapped the transfer case in half.   Yes, completely broke it off and it hit the ground.  On the plus side though, i picked up a complete transfer case from Grumpy's for $85 and another $30 for yoke and ujoint and started putting it back together last night.  It's going on the market as soon as it's back together.  This one is a turd, too many previous "mechanics" have about ruined it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By lester
      I picked up a 2000 Big Bear 400 4X4 that was sitting around that I know nothing about. It will not start. I do have a red light when in reverse. When I take it out of reverse, I do not get a green neutral light, and when I push the start button the red oil light comes on but there are no noises, nothing else happens. How do I test the neutral switch and/or bypass it to see if I can get it to at least crank? And does anyone have other suggestions for me to try?
    • By 86ccord
      Starting this build thread to keep up with everything on my build and hope to motivate someone!
       
      I picked up this 2008 Yamaha Big Bear 250 2 weeks ago. A guy that I hunt with parked it at the hunt club for a year or so before I asked him if he wanted to sell. He said " fill my feeder and throw some batteries in my cameras, and you can have it". Sounds like a deal to me! 
      I have attached some pictures of how it sat under a tarp in the woods and when I got it home and cleaned up a little. 
       
       



    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi guys
      My 87 Bear 350 won't start and could use a hand.
      Turn key on and Oil light turns on and then slowly fades out. (I think this is key to this) No start, not even a tick.
      battery and connections good
      A Solenoid post jump turns it over
      Neutral Safety Switch wire attached and seems good
      It has not had a wire/switch on Rear Brake Pedal ever since I had it.
      Any thoughts on some other things to troubleshoot this??
    • By utvboard
      2009 HONDA BIG RED
      Honda enters the MUV (multi-use vehicle) market with a side-by-side machine that leapfrogs the competition to set new standards in utility and recreation. With numerous automotive-based technologies, Big Red features a powerful 675cc OHV liquid-cooled PGM-fuel-injected single-cylinder engine and an automatic transmission with three selectable drive modes plus Reverse, front and rear independent double-wishbone suspension, a roomy cab featuring rubber-mounted bucket seats with adjustable backs, and a specially designed, highly durable, tilting cargo bed. A broad selection of Honda Genuine Accessories will also be offered.
      Big Red
      KEY FEATURES
      - Powerful OHV, liquid-cooled, PGM-fuel-injected 675cc, mid-engine design.
      - Automatic transmission with Reverse.
      2009 Honda Big Red in Camo
      - Three selectable drive modes.
      - Front and rear independent double-wishbone suspension for an impressively smooth comfortable ride.
      - Roomy cab and rubber mounted bucket seats with adjustable backs designed to comfortably fit a wide range of body types and reduce fatigue on long drives.
      Specially designed, high durability, tilting cargo bed
      - Specially designed, high durability, tilting cargo bed.
      - Wide variety of Honda Genuine Accessories.
      - Summer 2008 release. More information to come soon!
      Board Message - UTV Forum - Online UTV Community and UTV Forum
×
×
  • Create New...