Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Passing thought here and thought I'd pitch it to the group for debate.  I'm working through a Kodiak which is basically a Big Bear in a heavier bike and the same as about anything Japanese made for 30 years as far as clutch function and design goes.  This Kodiak is odd though in that the centrifugal clutch slipped a bit with good clutch material remaining and the main clutch pack seems to slip a bit as well at high RPM but also still has good clutch material left.  Much like the Kawa race bikes from what I've read.  Do you think it's an option to add a thin washer to the pressure bolts to put a bit more pressure on the main clutch and force it to use a bit more of the clutch material before having to replace?  There's seriously like 50% of fiber left on the main clutch pack and it seems silly to replace it all before it's truly worn down.

Posted

I didn’t even see this post for some reason.   I don’t think it would work since the washer you could only really fit in would be a 16th of an inch think ? How much grab do you think you would gain ? And how long would it last anyways? 

Posted

Given that the clutch packs are maybe 1/8th of an inch thick and those have lasted 26 years, i would think 1/16th of an inch might buy a couple of years.

Just thinking outside of the box.  It just doesn't make sense that it would be slipping with 50% of clutch material left; but it doesn't seem to be all that unusual.  Just seems like odd planning on Yamaha's part.

Posted

Yeah well planning is not always on the forefront with these people. If you go back and look at one of my threads on my Bayou, there was a neutral safety switch. Worst design everrrrrrrrrr! So I could see it on Yam behalf also.  

Posted

I've read the kFX450 wears out at 50% and you need to put stronger springs in it so it doesn't do it again. That's where I'm getting the idea that maybe the kodiak is the same. The 220 bayou though would grab fine with just enough fiber remaining to cast a shadow. Crazy how they are about all the same but have little behavior quirks. 

Posted

if it is the clutch PACK slipping, then yes, a set of washers may help for a while. stronger springs would be a better choice.  it also could just be improperly adjusted.  but if its the centrifugal clutch slipping,  you may be out of luck. 

Posted
4 hours ago, XWrench3 said:

if it is the clutch PACK slipping, then yes, a set of washers may help for a while. stronger springs would be a better choice.  it also could just be improperly adjusted.  but if its the centrifugal clutch slipping,  you may be out of luck. 

Centrifugal clutch I regrooved and worked the drum smooth. Seems to pull fine until you hit WOT so I'm pretty sure it's a clutch pack issue. Thanks for the input. I'll try readjusting when it's back together and if that doesn't work shim the springs a bit. 

Posted

Mystery somewhat solved. The threads in the case for the adjustment screw are completely gone so adjusting is best guess based on feel. Without threads it's also not keeping pressure on the clutch. 

Posted

Gonna pull the side of the case again and inspect. Hopefully I can drill and tap a size up and use a bolt nut combo to replicate the current function. Not sure as I've not looked at the way it's made but surely I can replicate the function. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So the clutch still wants to slip a bit if you throw it WOT in middle gears but doesnt slip if you ease it to WOT. Probably centrifugal clutch. But anywho, here's a couple shots from yesterday's ride. 

IMG952976.jpg

IMG952975.png

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Update on this one: rear ujoint on the front driveshaft took a crap, got the yoke in a bind, and dropped the middle drive gear on the ground, shredded the yoke, snapped the transfer case in half.   Yes, completely broke it off and it hit the ground.  On the plus side though, i picked up a complete transfer case from Grumpy's for $85 and another $30 for yoke and ujoint and started putting it back together last night.  It's going on the market as soon as it's back together.  This one is a turd, too many previous "mechanics" have about ruined it.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By fwsamm
      Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
    • By DPDISXR4Ti
      I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
      The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
      Thanks...
    • By mans
      Were is the neutral safety switch on 03' Kodiak 400 4x4 . How xan i check it to see if it's good for a no neutral light no power to machine. Ty
    • By wheeliewayne
      my  2012 big bear 400 is hard shifting  can anyone help me
    • By Ejwill
      Well while I was waiting for new parts for the choke, I decided to adjust the clutch. When I removed the lock nut, I found the guy I bought it from or someone else had stripped the threads on the adjustment rod. I couldn’t get the adjustment rod to turn without putting a pair of channel locks on the screw driver, this was telling me something was wrong. So now the rod pushes in and out and spins freely too freely. So guess I’ll have to take the clutch housing off to see what’s going on and replace the adjustment rod, it’s threads are beyond repair, and there is something going on with the adjustment rod. If there’s another way please let me know. The further I go the worse it gets. Thanks for any help.
×
×
  • Create New...