Quantcast
Jump to content

Another Bayou 220 no spark


Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I've been scratching my head over this for most of the day.  I bought a couple of Bayou 220's, got them running (they've both been sitting), and started tweaking and fixing small things.  One of them is mostly done, the other had an aftermarket carb on it and I've been trying to sort that out.

 

Anyway, while adjusting the carb it died a few times, I restarted and moved on until it died and wouldn't restart.  I figured maybe I'd flooded it or something - after further attempts I realized I had no spark.  Since I have two identical machines I have many parts at my disposal.  I've swapped the CDI, spark plug and coil with no luck.  I have good resistance readings from the stator and pick up (135 and 110 respectively),  I don't have a peak voltage meter but I measure around 53VAC on the stator when cranking.  I have a 4 wire stator, not an alternator like the newer ones.  Grounds look good, I've checked the kill switch by verifying that it and the ignition switch grounds the black/yellow wire to the CDI.  I can turn the engine slowly and see the pickup short the meter as well, seems normal right?  So far everything I've checked looks the same on both machines.  I've got the service manual and wiring diagrams.  Do these readings make any sense?  I'm obviously missing something but I'm stumped.  thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I swapped the regulators and still no spark, so far I've swapped CDI, spark plug, coil, regulator.  I've checked resistance on stator, and pickup.  I have lights, starter, etc, it's just an ignition issue, not sure what I'm missing, I'd like to make sure I test everything I can before I start taking side covers off.

 

Thanks!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man that’s a tough gremlin you got going on.  So the only few  things that could be doing this then is a short within the wiring maybe along the frame ? 
Could be a bad connection on one of the plugs even the single pin and sleeve plugs that are all over the harness. Maybe take them apart, clean up and add some dialectic grease and reconnect. 
Check to see that your ignition switch is ok, I’ve seen some people find that wiggling the switch allowed the bike to fire up due to poor contacts within the switch that sends voltage to the cdi.  Some only have two wires, a brown and white, if so then it’s good if your getting dash lights but check thats your model.  

You tested continuity on the kill switch that it’s opening and closing yes ? 

You checked continuity from each phase of the stator to ground yes ? (Should get no continuity) 

Main fuse on the starter relay?

Im just throwing random sh** out there and trying to jog my memory from my bayou. 

 

 

Edited by Frank Angerano
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok thanks, 

Stator not shorted to ground, fuse is good, (starter works).  I tested the ground side of the kill switch but not the hot side, but I don't think the starter turns with the switch off.  Also, it's a 1995 model, I don't see where the CDI actually gets any power,  I tested my good bike and I don't have 12V anywhere on the CDI with the key on.  I'll keep probing....  thanks for the input!!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...Also, the way I read it, the CDI will function as long as it has a ground, AC from the stator and a pulse from the pickup, as long as the yellow/black wire is open.  The kill switch and the key will both ground the yellow/black if in the off position.  I've tested this and it all seems right.  Also, now I'm getting a spark every now and then, usually when I just start the starter or when I just let off.  Continuous cranking yields no spark.  I swapped the coil and CDI from the good one again tonight, no luck.  

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cdi needs voltage to work.  
Take a look at this pic.

If this is your diagram for a US made 1995

I circled and arrowed the area.   The brown wire coming into the switch should be 12v +. It should send voltage to the Y/R wire which goes to the cdi. That Y/R wire should have 12 v at the cdi.  The cdi gets its pick up coil signal from the Bk/W wire coming from the pick up coil  and gets amplified and sent out of the cdi via G/W to the secondary ignition coil that supplies spark to the plug. 

Make sure your grounds are good including the main frame ground and on the secondary coil at the spark plug.  
  
The cdi has diodes inside them that can go bad and create stray voltage. 
Not sure if you tested the cdi on another bike but I have. A feeling it’s the cdi.   

2A49462E-606F-4BD1-A0EB-56E692439323.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Frank, Mine must be an 'early 95' because that is not the wiring diagram for my quad.  I don't have an alternator and I have a 4 wire ignition switch.  Completely different CDI as well.  My Y/R wire is grounded when either the kill switch is off or the key is off (or both) and open when in 'ready to run' mode.  I don't see any constant 12v feed to my CDI, and as I see it there shouldn't be.  I've swapped the good bike's CDI to the bad but I don't recall swapping the bad one to the good, I can try that tonight but I'm pretty sure it'll work.  I get the same intermittent spark with both CDI's and both coils.

 

Thanks!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No alternator, I have a stator and two wires come off of that to the rectifier/regulator for the charging circuit, two wires provide AC to the CDI box and two wires provide the pulse from the pickup to the CDI box.  The later models have an alternator that provides DC to the charge circuit and the CDI I believe.  I've attached the schematic I've been using that seems to match what I've got.

 

Thanks

bayou220_schematic.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any luck ??

Have you tested the two wires feeding the cdi while cranking for voltage  ? 
 

I see your point about the wires feeding the cdi. There is a red/yellow wire coming from the kill switch going to the cdi as well as the ignition? Have you tested this wire for voltage as it comes out of the ignition with the key on ? 
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, the red and black/red coming from the stator have about 53vac while cranking.  the red/yellow wire has no voltage from the kill switch, it's open in the run position and grounded in the stop position.  I took the side cover off tonight to see if there was anything physically wrong, no issues found, the gap on the pickup is correct as well.

 

thanks

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, so I pulled the flywheel off of the 2006 bayou 250 and stuck it on the 1995 and it sparks!  So, I guess the flywheel is bad, still don't understand why.  Kawasaki lists different part numbers for the <95 and 96>.  Any reason they wouldn't be compatible?  All I know so far is that I have spark on the '95 with the '06 flywheel, haven't gone any farther than that.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I compared the two with a screwdriver and there was no noticeable difference, not exactly a scientific test but still, it's weird that it was running and suddenly quit, does a flywheel really just die like that?  The flywheel was literally the last thing I thought it could be.  Anyway, I'm also not sure why the part numbers are different between the two flywheels, I know that the 06 has an alternator vs a mag/stator but the flywheels don't physically look any different.  I'm tempted to put the '95 flywheel on the 06 when I get the  top end done and see if it will spark. 

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to order another flywheel on Ebay for this one and put the good one back on the '06 for now - I'm trying to get the '06 put back together so I can get it out of my garage.  I can't see any difference between them but there must be, otherwise Kawasaki would use the same part number all the way through.  I'm not surprised it fit on the shaft as the bottom ends are exactly the same on the two bikes.  The diameters also look the same but I'll try to get some measurements on them when I pull it back apart.

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

So, the new flywheel didn't fix it, nor did another flywheel off of another newer quad.  Just for fun I ordered a cheap CDI unit from Amazon and bang! Spark again.  I can still put the original CDI on the other bike and it runs.  I suspect a tolerance stack issue, weak pickup/flywheel matched with a weak CDI.  The other bike must have a slightly stronger pickup and/or flywheel so the CDI works with it.  Anyway, now that that works I need to find the source of an engine knock.  

 

thanks

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
    • By Bobbywolf
      I am working on a basket case for a friend.  It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB).  It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
       
      Anyway, first thing is first.  I checked compression, 150psi.  Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time.  I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages.  It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
       
      The bike runs.  It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration.  Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean.  White strap, with no black whatsoever.  So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot.  It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air).  It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on.  The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there.  I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
       
      Anything big I am missing here?  I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue.  This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.  
       
      Thanks for any assistance.
    • By p5200
      I'm assuming, it's alright to test the engine after adjusting valves without the rear axle installed? Can someone please verify this? I'm waiting on axle parts and wanting to get that done while waiting. Thanks! 🙂
    • By marlon smith
      1990 kawasaki bayou 300c idles fine but pops out exhaust and intake when trying to excel, will not take throttle past 1/4 , any one had this problem?
      have replaced carb twice, same thing, fresh built engine cylinder head, same as before, new spark plug, flywheel key is good, pulser test good, good spark
    • By Werewolf
      My wheeler originally had a fuel leak.But on trying to start it no spark. Took front end off, when I try to start it I get one spark then nothing. Come back a while latter one spark,replaced coil and cdi box no help?
×
×
  • Create New...