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Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
I just bought these in the fall as a pair and of course they were running awesome with no problems at that time.
One of them now will only start with starting fluid. It runs great once it's started, but absolutely refuses to start without a squirt of the good stuff. The other one starts just fine, but dies after it gets warm. The only way to keep it running is to keep the throttle up. It won't run at an idle, and keeping it running has the throttle too high to shift. Any ideas or suggestions are very much appreciated!!!
John from Shelley, Idaho
I have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 that has a rev limiter when it is in any gear other than neutral, i have already fixed a bunch of stuff on it and would love to just bypass it if anyone knows how. Thanks for any help.
By Stephanie Webb
please help cant figure out how to bypass rev limiter in my suzuki quad master 500
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
Hi i bought my first atv last week, mostly for plowing. its a 94 yamaha big bear 350 4x4, with plow, new front axles, carb rebuild and some other stuff for $900. in todays prices, i think it was a pretty good deal. I plan on tearing it down and doing a semi restoration in the summer. its been clearly neglected so i suspect i will need to do a fair amount.
1. parts and manuals, so far i know it needs front shocks, tie rods, brakes, cables, lots of small stuff, whats your guys favorite online atv parts store? where can i find a good repair manual?
2 - starts and drives great, shifts a bit hard? not sure whats normal because i dont have a point of referance. i have to almost lean back in the seat and lever my foot up to get it to shift, seems like there is either alot of play in something (shift lever itself is tight) or there is a long travel, or it just dosent want to shift. also the hi / low / reverse lever needs to go past the gate a bit to actually shift into gear, and seems to need me to shift into nutral before shifting into reverse (not sure what your supposed to do). also wondering a bit about the history of the machine, because the plastics have a slot for a dash mounted shifter, but the one on it is a gated shifter right above the pull starter.
3. seat and plastics repair, seat is quite torn up with a seat cover over it, plastics are pretty cracked up, these items i havent found replacements for for any reasonable price, i dont care a whole lot about asthetics but whats the best way to functionally repair these things? is there reasonably priced replacements somewhere? i plan to bedline the whole thing after im done.
4. there was no title, but i did get a bill of sale, will it be difficult to get it titled / registered? (im in mn)
thanks in advance for your help, looking forward to being part of the community
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