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By jimybud
Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
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By therealjohnsmith
I just bought these in the fall as a pair and of course they were running awesome with no problems at that time.
One of them now will only start with starting fluid. It runs great once it's started, but absolutely refuses to start without a squirt of the good stuff. The other one starts just fine, but dies after it gets warm. The only way to keep it running is to keep the throttle up. It won't run at an idle, and keeping it running has the throttle too high to shift. Any ideas or suggestions are very much appreciated!!!
Thank you,
John from Shelley, Idaho
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By mrfartsalot
I have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 that has a rev limiter when it is in any gear other than neutral, i have already fixed a bunch of stuff on it and would love to just bypass it if anyone knows how. Thanks for any help.
video-1583184277.mp4 -
By Stephanie Webb
please help cant figure out how to bypass rev limiter in my suzuki quad master 500
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By mrfartsalot
i have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 that the primary cvt clutch is rusted on any ideas on how to get it off i want to try to reuse it if possible.
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By Blenderite
Hello guys! New to the forum, and fairly new to ATVs. I've driven them, but never owned one. Now I do own one. Just picked it up today. It's a 1999 Yamaha Big Bear 350. It's been through some stuff. The guy I got it from told me the previous owner removed the front diff because he didn't want to replace the half shaft. So it's 2wd, even though it's supposed to be 4x4. Lovely. I can deal with that for now.
More importantly, I need to get it running. The carb needs to be rebuilt. The guy I got it from said he sprayed it all out and it still didn't work. I'm concerned he might have damaged it or not put all the parts back. I was looking at a replacement carb, and the OEM parts is $600. I'd rather not spend $600 if there are any other options. I have seen carbs on Amazon and eBay that are in the $40 - $100 range that say they fit. Anyone have experience with these? I'm going to get a rebuild kit for the current carb just to make sure that won't fix it.
Thats the first thing with it. Secondly, it was completely rewired. I need to find a original wiring diagram so I can put it back how it was, with a key and all. Currently it's wired with just a rocker switch. Any sources for a service manual that would include wiring diagrams?
Thirdly, is the Big Bear 350 a good atv? I picked it up for $700. It does start and run when you spray starting fluid into the air intake, so I am not concerned about the engine being bad. I plan to use it for the farm, running around and carrying things with it like minerals and feed and such. Not really for mudding and things like that. How good is the 99 350?
I am certain I will have more questions as I examine it more, but that's all for now. Thanks in advance for the assistance!
-Blenderite
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By Arizona
Just a couple of things since i get various atvs.
They always need seat cover and always need oil and other minor items.
My question is Do you buy any specific motor oil for them, i heard you must get atv oil or will mess up the clutch.
Not sure if correct but didnt want to find out hard way. Is there a cheaper oil or can you use regular motor oil?
Next they always need a new seat cover, any good places to buy bulk or cheap vinyl to re do the seats with out spending
30-50 dollars on a specific cover?
whats you go to places for parts, i use amazon, ebay any others that offer a good deal?
that goes for hard parts or just cables and or clips, wiring, bolts etc no wrong answer here.
always looking for new ways to find parts for the older atvs. TIA Az
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By PolarisRich
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
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By weblex
Friends, being the owner of a far from new ATV, I often come across a search for various owner's manuals, service guides, parts manuals, etc. It is not easy to find suitable documents for every quad. Therefore, I present to your attention a website that contains various instructions for ATVs from well-known manufacturers: https://www.ATVownersmanual.com
Currently only 3 manufacturers are represented here: Can-Am, Polaris, Yamaha - and only about 1200 instructions for various models. Little later other brands and missing instructions will be added.
What will be convenient for you: all documents are in PDF format. If necessary, you can download them to your computer and use offline. The documents are structured by brand, year and model. There is no advertising (yet).
I am happy to hear criticism and recommendations. If you have missing or rare instructions, send them to PM or to the website's email: info [...at...] atvownersmanual [...dot...] com.
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By Ed Morris
I have a 2001 Quadmaster. Bought it from the original Owner. Its in Excellent condition for a 2001. The guy said there was a carb problem when I bought it. It seems like it is not getting fuel. I took off the tank, cleaned it, replaced the gas with fresh Gas, Installed a New Gas Valve. Then rebuilt the carb with a Carb Kit. Started it up and same damn thing, seems like its starving for gas. It will also backfire out the exhaust while trying to accelerate. Now the weird part. I started it the other day and it ran great. We went for a ride and it ran as if nothing was wrong with it. Started it the next day and back to running crappy again. I was like WTF !!! ... Anyone have any ideas of what the problem could be?
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