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By wiwild
Hello everyone !
I'm currently rebuilding my carburetor on my Yamaha moto 4 350 1987, first time I rebuild a carb 😅 ! It was leaking fuel from the overflow and inside the intake ....
When I took off needle (the platic top part was stuck like crazy) I had a spring and inside the kit there is a spring, an O-Ring and a washer.
Left is the needle that was in the carburetor and right is the new set (I already tried to mount it but it didn't felt right and I accidentally broke the o-ring)
Anyway, I saw in some videos and diagram that there is no spring in here. So should I put the spring back ? And where ? On top of the needle or bottom ?
This is an original Mikuni carb :
Thank you ! Also if you have any additionnal tips please feel free to share I want to learn the proper way !
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By Edgar5656
Looking for a carb for 87 moto4 200. Just bought the machine and it’s got a Chinese one that’s not working right even after I cleaned it out. Looking for the original mikuni vm22sf.
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By Steve Bethany Poston
I just got an old YFM200DX Moto 4 and upon checking the oil in the rear differential I took out I assume the fill plug and it fished out old nasty oil. I plan on flushing the oil and replacing but was wanting to make sure if you drain bottom plug and just fill up to the check plug. Only thing I can think of someone filled it up by the breather on top? Plan on unhooking the hose and blowing it out tomorrow. I also do not have a service manual yet. Also right now the diff vent hose just goes up under the tank to nothing. Does it plug into back hole in the air box? Thanks
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By Diesel Dave
Hi there, I am a new member and have never used a forum before. I own a 250 moto 4, has smoked since I got it.
Oil consumption has increased, I removed the crank case breather pipe and have a catch can under frame at front. Smoke has not changed. also after more than 20 hrs use during lock down there is a very small amount of oil come out the breather.
Compression seems very high, engine turns not too bad if stopped for up to 20 mins but much more than that it is difficult to turn engine past tdc. (poss almost hydrolocked?) if left for a couple of hours or more it then turns over easier. Also if spark plug is removed. I would have expected oil to come out when turning engine with spark plug out.
I suspect oil is getting down valve guides? smoke is worst during warm up. The starter motor has not worked since before I owned it and I have modified pull start as the pressure on it was causing problems. I am about to check valve clearances this morning before I get going. I do not want to dismantle while lock down is on as I am using it daily.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, Dave
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By BuckBilly
I like to ride in wooded and grassy areas. It takes my mind off the everyday routines and helps me deal with my father's cancer. Also gives me a reason to get involved with forums like this one.
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By wiwild
Hello everyone !
I'm currently rebuilding my carburetor on my Yamaha moto 4 350 1987, first time I rebuild a carb 😅 ! It was leaking fuel from the overflow and inside the intake ....
When I took off needle (the platic top part was stuck like crazy) I had a spring and inside the kit there is a spring, an O-Ring and a washer.
Left is the needle that was in the carburetor and right is the new set (I already tried to mount it but it didn't felt right and I accidentally broke the o-ring)
Anyway, I saw in some videos and diagram that there is no spring in here. So should I put the spring back ? And where ? On top of the needle or bottom ?
This is an original Mikuni carb :
Thank you ! Also if you have any additionnal tips please feel free to share I want to learn the proper way !
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By 92BayouB
Hey there all,
First off thanks for the board. My Bayou 220 has survived 3 teenagers and is on its 4th now. Up until recently it has been a virtual tank....until I decided to fix it;)
Noticed some smoking from the engine block (not exhaust) so figured it was time for a quick top end rebuild. Now that I have it all back together, it fails to start. I've pulled the starter rope until my arm is tired.
So I will be as detailed as possible and hopefully get some help.
Completed:
-New Head gasket
-New Valve seals
-New piston (standard)
-New rings (standard)
-All new seals
-Cleaned up head and valves (didn't do any resurfacing, as it all cleaned up pretty easy)
-All torqued to spec
-Piston ring gaps all checked out
-Valve clearances (Intake: .18mm, Exhaust .20mm). Not too tight, not too loose.
Pros:
-Engine IS making decent compression
-DO have spark
-Will fire for a split second if I drop some gas in the spark plug hole and pull start. Will NOT from carb and or intake valve.
Timing:
So I followed the guide of: TDC
-Flywheel aligns on the “T” mark on the engine site hole
-Cam gear mark aligned with the cover mark
Seeing as this is my first time doing a top end rebuild on an ATV. Here are my questions and concerns:
-I didn't realize (dummy me) that there are 2 TDC's. 1- Compression, 1-Exhaust.
How do I know if I'm on the right one?
-Does the cam need to be aligned a certain way when put back in? I just aligned the cam gear dimple with the cam and put it in. No alignment.
Thanks ahead of time. I feel like I'm 90% there, but I'm missing an important step for completion.
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By Bryzan3
Looking for advice on what to try next I bought this quad and it’s has spark and fuel but won’t stay running only fires when I hold the starter button in even when spraying gas into the carb it still dies right away oil was milky white so I was thinking it maybe went under water 150 psi compression so I might be wrong but not a head gasket I am stuck Cause it should stay running with the straight gas through the carb so what should I try
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