Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

2006 Arctic Cat 400 TRV 4x4


Recommended Posts

Please bear with me as this will be a long post.  Here goes... This summer I started working on a 2006 Arctic Cat 400 TRV (green).  I replaced the carburetor because the electric choke wasn't working.  After doing this and checking the fuel pump and gas, I was able to get the atv running.  It would idle great and sounded great, BUT when I tried to give it gas, it would bog down and die.  I thought the carb may need adjusting, but when fooling with it and trying to solve the throttle issue, the starter got hot and busted a magnet.  So then I replaced the starter with a brand new one.  Then it would act like it was going to start but wouldn't.  When I started inspecting further and looked that the stator and flywheel, the flywheel had a loose magnet.  So then I replaced the stator and flywheel with a brand new one.  I also replaced the solenoid, and the ignition solenoid.  I replaced it because i was getting fire down to the starter solenoid, but not to the spark plug.  I was getting fire to the plug but lost it.  So, from the time the starter got hot and busted a magnet, I have not been able to get the atv to run.  Sometime between replacing the flywheel and stator and starter, I have lost power to the start button.  I have looked at all of the wires and made sure there wasn't a naked wire or something causing a short.  When testing wires with a tester, I believe I was getting fire to pretty much everything.  I can't remember if I was getting fire to the start button. but I'm assuming I'm not.  Don't hold me to that though.  When testing the stator, I'm not getting fire.  I know you can get bad parts even if they're supposed to be new.  What are yall's thoughts on what can be the problem?  I have literally worked on this bike for going on 4 months in between waiting on parts to arrive.  I don't know what else to check.  I have another stator that I know is good that I'm going to try (maybe tomorrow).  With all of the problems I've had, I swear this atv is cursed or something.  LOL!  Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are two known issues with that model year machine, one is the magnets coming loose on the flywheel and wire harness problems. (wires rubbing through)

You can get a service manual and the schematic for free from this website:

https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/

 

This should help you trace out the problem to figure out the electrical issue.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I replaced the flywheel with a brand new updated one that doesn't have the magnets like the original. I have physically looked at every wire in the wiring harness. There was a few that had some rubbed places. I fixed and taped those. Still no fire and start button still doesn't work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rubbed wires was a problem with the 2006-2007 models, I had a 2007 model. Wires still could be broken even if it looked like they did not rub through.

Your going to have to use a multimeter and the schematic to verify the wires, I am betting you have broken wires if you have no power to the start button. Best bet is to solder them and use marine grade heat shrink tubing then where the harness has problem spots, wrap them with plastic spiral wrap for protection. I would add this wrap to any area of the harness that looks like it can rub on rough spots. I did this with my 2007 machine and never had an issue with the wires again.

Mike

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its handy to have the schematic with you on paper, but its too hard to read on one sheet of paper. this will help:

 

The website that has the schematics located here.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/

The file is large and includes a whole slew of schematics, the question is how to extract out the one you need and print it? The diagrams don't print well on a regular sheet of paper due to their size so here is a procedure to get the diagram you need and make a nice print. This will be with utilities you can get for free (the best kind image.gif.f7d6f796ce1c968546d43730824d25e7.gif

After downloading the large PDF of the schematics, go to this website here...

Tracker Software Products :: PDF-XChange Viewer, Free PDF Reader

Download pdf-xchange (its free)

Open the pdf file with this program. by clicking on the selections you can get to the exact schematic you need. Once its displayed do this:

File -> Export -> Export to Image

Select "Current page" , Image type "JPEG", choose your folder to drop the image, give it a name like "2006 400 auto" set page zoom to 100% and resolution to 300 or 400 dpi Then click export. You will now have a JPG of the page.

Next step is to go to this website...

posteriza.com - Home

Download the program (free) What this will do is allow you to tke this large JPG and break it up onto several pages. I use 4 for the schematics. Its pretty easy to follow and I print them without a border. Print them out and use an old fashioned "cut & tape" and you will now have a nice large printout of your schematic.
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Dave Randolph
      I have been working on a couple projects that require electronic fuel injection conversion. I would like to know how much interest there would be in aftermarket EFI conversions. There are huge benefits to converting carbureted machines to EFI. I have found a few systems but they can be quite expensive and difficult to install. Hopefully that is about to change. So if anyone is interested or has experience with EFI conversions, I would like to hear about it. 
      Thank you
      Dave Randolph


    • By Jimjam
      Hello all,
      I'm about to service my big bear and have a few questions,
      1. Transfer case oil- I believe this is the same as the engine 10w40? How much do I need for the transfer and the engine?
      2. Is there a link for the oil in the transfer case to back and forth between the transfer and engine?
      3. diff oil- I'm looking at doing both best viscosity and how much will I Need?
      Thank you
    • By Jimjam
      Hi all, I have purchased a 92 (i think) big bear 350, that wasn't running, i have just got it running and now in the process of seeing what else is needed to keep it running and serving it. I was checking the rear diff oil and opened the filler plug and water came out. The question is how did water get in there without going back out the same way it got in?.
      So I am going to drain it and put in new diff oil, what type of diff oil is best (viscosity) and how much is need for it? I'll do the front diff at the same time as the bike doesn't look like it has been maintained well.
    • By 06kodiak450
      I turn the key on and the dash lights up, the head lights work... I push the button to start and nothing happens, no click/crank, no noise at all. It will pull start, I can jump start it from the battery to the starter, and I replaced the starter relay. IWhat could it be??? 
      Oh , and it is in Park,and I tried the kill switch several times in both positions, that does make a faint click, and sounds like it’s working
    • Check out with coupon code "BF15" to save 15% Off over $119 for Black Friday Shopping Gala 2021 on Kemimoto
    • By tjakes680
      So I have a 86 Quadrunner LT 230GE machine runs great for its age so I know I have to clean my carb witch  im prob going to just rebuild with a Shiny rebuild kit that  ill do this week .But I started quad 2 days ago after  not starting for about 10 days and it was running real bad it was pretty cold out about 45 degrees F so I did some carb adjustments to pilot screw and pilot needle ( air and fuel screw and idle screw ) and got it running pretty good ,I also put the winter summer knob to winter position per manual. So now  quad keeps stalling when fuel petcock is in on position but when in reserve position works fine I topped off tank with True Fuel its all I use (no ethanol) so I guess the fuel filter in the tank is most likely clogged or the fuel petcock may be clogged or not working correctly. My question is do the fuel filters come right out of the tank i see in manual that they are right in tank off the rubber bushing do they pull right out or does the rubber busing grommet have to come out ?And do you think I can blow the line out with air witch im not sure ill do because the filters are very thin and may break or tear any one ever change these filters ?Any help would be greatly appreciated .Im also going to clean and possibly replace fuel valve as I ordered one on Partzilla. Can quad run on reserve? Beside picking up bottom of tank gunk can any harm come from running on reserve as im waiting for fuel cock  to be delivered .Thanks again 
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Lance Workman
      I have an 07 Arctic Cat 400. Non DVX. It’ll turn over and backfire through the carb. I have verified timing, tried in both positions. 180 out. Carb is clean but it’s an EBay special. But I have tried another carb (different from a 350 Rancher) with the exact same results. I have also verified valve lash, good fuel, good plug, compression is about 110. I’m about to my ends with this things?!? Any ideas? 
    • By Steve Howard
      Hey I was thinking about buying this 400 cheap The way it's smoking I think the cylinder will need bored? can this bored or re sleeved
    • By Chris Owens
      I have an 04 arctic cat 400 fis 4x4 manual changed the centrifugal clutch,  changed the clutch discs and adjusted the clutch. When shifted into gear forward or reverse it will leap a little but will not go it was moving with the old centrifugal clutch but it was worn out. Any help would be appriciated 
    • By Chad Dickerson
      I am goin nuts here! I have a 04 400 air cooled 4x4 , I'm a atv,car,truck,mower mechanic for yrs,just sayin. Ok it cranks and kinda fires now and again then after 5 min of cranking and stopping itl start if u touch throttle itl did then u start all over! If u let it warm up sumtimes u can throttle it up other times it just does! Just depends on it? When it stays running it runs awesome,no problems except it just does randomly like u shut key off? Sumtimes itl start right back up others itl do the no start thing! IV put new plug,adjusted valves and hot tanked carb? I'm at a loss here guys! Please any other ideas? I don't think it's anything to do with flywheel? It's not the auto it has a hi low reverse lever on left fender and foot shifter? Help please lol
    • By axleshaft1
      dead  electric   2004 arctic cat 400 4x4 auto      wire was coroded off man in harness in front of  regulator      two  red  power wires  where they join  into  one   was pulling hair out on this     start removing  tape -  low and behold  problem solved 
  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...