Quantcast
Jump to content


Snow Pushing


Richard1234

Recommended Posts

Any advice regarding clearing snow with a Big Bear 350? 

I've a long straight driveway to clear at a new hobby acreage and we got lots of fresh snow!  Is it any better to angle the plow and run the length, or push the snow side to side into the ditches? 

I've never plowed snow before and have a steep learning curve as to what will prove more efficient! 

Any advice from the experienced would be appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Angle blade and run the length if you can, if you get large amounts of snow frequently and are able, pushed it WELL off each side of the driveway because it will build up making it more difficult to plow as winter drags on. Of you don't get it far enough off your driving lan will become narrower and narrower as winter progresses.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Freedomflyer said:

Angle blade and run the length if you can, if you get large amounts of snow frequently and are able, pushed it WELL off each side of the driveway because it will build up making it more difficult to plow as winter drags on. Of you don't get it far enough off your driving lan will become narrower and narrower as winter progresses.

Ah, I should have signed in before I went!  It wasn't near as deep as here in the city, so I should be able to expand the narrow lane I cut.  I did end up angling the blade and made 4 passes up/down the lane.  

I was surprised how easy it pushed.  The Big Bear had no issues with tires spinning nor motor loading up even as the blade overflowed heavy wet snow.  With the long straight driveway, and room on each side, clearing the snow doesn't seem as daunting as it did before!

My only issue is that the winch isn't sensitive enough to adjust the blade an inch or two at a time.  I will need to modify how I'm grabbing it so that I can position the blade more accurately.

But over-all, seems an excellent (and kinda fun) way to clear snow!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

It's a bit nasty pushing snow when the temperature drops for sure.  The high today was -9F (-23C) (low at -22F) and with a fair bit of time mucking around trying to get the old girl started (I ended up removing the plug and heating it up) it got a bit miserable on the hands and feet. 

We've enough snow now that the original advice of pushing a wider path than you need has really come into effect! 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have a Yamaha big bear 350 with a plow. I found that the two parallel bars supporting the blade were hitting the ground before the plow blade was all the way down, leaving about 3 inches of snow that wasn't plowed. I had to bore new holes in the brackets that the blade is attached to so that the blade was several inches lower allowing it to go all the way down to the ground. Much better snow removal here in Kalispell, Montana.  My battery also went dead from constantly raising and lowering the blade while plowing. Is this normal? Shouldn't the stator be charging the battery enough that this wouldn't happen?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/31/2021 at 7:30 PM, jamo said:

I also have a Yamaha big bear 350 with a plow. I found that the two parallel bars supporting the blade were hitting the ground before the plow blade was all the way down, leaving about 3 inches of snow that wasn't plowed. I had to bore new holes in the brackets that the blade is attached to so that the blade was several inches lower allowing it to go all the way down to the ground. Much better snow removal here in Kalispell, Montana.  My battery also went dead from constantly raising and lowering the blade while plowing. Is this normal? Shouldn't the stator be charging the battery enough that this wouldn't happen?

I haven't had any battery issues plowing with my 350 Big Bear. 

I try to keep the blade an inch off the ground as I have a rough gravel driveway.  My blade seems to tilt a bit when I rotate it to push on an angle.  I'm not sure if the quad "rocks" or if the mount moves, but the trailing side seems lower regardless if I push left or right.  Any ideas?       

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Gwbarm
      I have been exploring all the options available, so many, its hard to choose. I have kind of narrowed it down to the Honda Pilot, Subaru Outback, and Kind of looking at the Outlander, although its a little small,  the new one is nice looking. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or gripes with any of these rides. I have driven Jeeps for the past 25  years and they have been great, but their price point has gotten to high. Expieriences good or bad would be helpful. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...