Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,

I hope this is the right area to post looking for help.

I've got an old Yamaha Big Bear that I'm trying to get running as a bit of a project between jobs, but I've run into a problem that my novice mechanical skills cannot get around.

  • Compression test on the engine looks good.
  • I am getting spark from the lead when I press the start button. (and the fire suggests there's spark from the plug)
  • Various bits and pieces are spinning (behind recoil starter for example).

So things are not looking bad, but while I don't have the new carby in yet, I wanted to test with a little spray of Engine Start (like I've seen on all the Youtubes :p) and instead of sucking the spray in the intake manifold and burbling to life, it seems to backfire (explosively) and catch on fire.

I know you can do damage if you go crazy with the Engine start, but this happens with even a tiny spray.

What should I look for that might be the cause of this, anyone?

 

Thanks so much

 

Posted

Check the valve clearances. The inlet. It might be slightly too tight.

Try to check the exhaust isn't blocked. Maybe disconnect it at the head.

I'm presuming it did use to go and got parked up in a running state, and  hasn't been rebuilt

Posted

On a 4 stroke engine the piston gets to TDC twice in a cycle. It may be that the timing was set on the exhaust TDC and not compression TDC. Have to make sure the marks on the cam are correct and make sure both valves are closed at TDC. 

Posted

If you were to assume that timing could be set when the piston is at the top, it is possible to set timing on the exhaust stroke and not true TDC which is the compression stroke. This, it's 180 out. I've done that years ago. Both valves have to be closed and the piston has to be at the top to be at true TDC. 

Posted

What timing are you talking about? Engines have ignition timing and valve timing. Most of these types of atvs have a pickup coil on the crank that tells the cdi when to fire a wasted spark ignition.

Posted

Not all spark systems are wasted spark. Some only fire every second rotation.

Some cdi systems that run off the crank, that is get their low voltage off the stator, need more than one rotation before they will fire. They have to see several low voltage pulses before the trigger coil will fire them. The cam might need turning 180 degrees so the valves are closed on that second rotation of the crank.

MarkinAr sounds like he's familiar with these yamahas..  I'm not, but I'd check what he's suggesting.

Posted

I don’t like starting fluid to diagnose or make conclusions about an engine. Get the new carb or clean out the one you got and then see what’s happening. I’d only run it with the air filter on, if possible. When cranking it over, feel for air blowing out the exhaust to be sure there’s no mouse nest in the muffler. Also, when spraying the starting fluid, open the throttle wide open to get the mist past the plunger/butter fly valve. 

Posted

First I say "most of these types of atv's are wasted spark", and then Mech comes back with " not all spark systems are wasted spark. Weird.

Of course not all spark systems are wasted spark, but I am guessing this one is. If the atv only has a pickup coil on the crank then how would it know what stroke it was on?

Posted

You make a good point there about opening the throttle wide open to lift the slide Cookie. If it's right down the ether isn't going to get in there.

And I agree, starting fluid isn't a good test really. It's full of oil or kero or something and can foul the plug. A teaspoon of fuel down the sparkplug hole is better.

Stale fuel can also foul sparkplugs. Have you got fresh fuel CJ ?

Posted (edited)

"Of course not all spark systems are wasted spark, but I am guessing this one is. If the atv only has a pickup coil on the crank then how would it know what stroke it was on? "..

Don't guess, be sure.

If you  want to know how the electronics involved work read up about "voltage doubler", and digital logic "flip-flop".

The stator sends out pulses of alternating power, they get "stacked" to charge a capacitor to a higher voltage, then the trigger coil triggers a discharge of the charged up capacitor. On a two stroke they fire every revolution, and on some four strokes that's fine too and they do run a wasted spark. Some engines though, because of a combination of valve overlap and ignition advance, don't like that, so they count the low voltage pulses as they charge the capacitor, and don't  let the trigger coil do it's thing till more than one full revolution has happened after the last firing, then it triggers at the next trigger signal.

Your backfiring with the engine start spray is likely because of what Cookie was saying..

 

Edited by Mech

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By hengstserepair
      Howdy ya'll. I am working ona 2000 Yamaha Breeze 125. It was in rought shape when I received it and I am working through issues as they pop up. The quad had been sitting for years. I was able to get her running again, but I need your help with the following issue:
      I don't trust the transmission yet and I don't want to make problems any worse. So, I haven't pushed things hard at all. Low rpms, less than 5mph in reverse.

      Nuetral: Runs as expected
      Reverse: She seems to be driving fine at slow speeds. Going into reverse at idle is fine, coming out of reverse back into neutral won't work (the shifter is just stuck). As soon as I turn off the quad, I am able to shift around without any issue.
      Forward: It slips. It seems to only transfer power to the wheels on a smooth surface and going slightly downhill. When shifting into forward at idle, there is a clacking sounds during the transition. Shifting back to nuetral works just fine.

      Other Notable Symptoms: There was old oil in the vbelt and when I was tuning the carb, it starting blowing out of the CVT cooling vent at the front of the quad. Made quite a mess. There is positive crankcase pressure due to piston blowby, that I have not decided whether or not I am going to fix (customer budget dependant).  Since the oil was old, much darker than the new oil that is in the crankcase, I am thinking it seeped past a bad seal while it was sitting for years. The oil that was in it when I first got it had gas in it.

      Thoughts: I am thinking maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I worry about the old oil intermingling with the dry centrifugal clutch. I was thinking my next step would be to take the cover off of the clutch and inspect it.

      Let me know what you all think. Any advice and ideas is greatly appreciated. This is only the 3rd quad I have worked on and I have a lot to learn.

      Lorne
    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By jeffinotown
      Hey guys and gals. I've been working on my friends 2007 big bear IRS. Unfortunately after 3 different people got their hands on it and only made things worse every time.  After months of finding just crazy problems everywhere. I'm finally at the point we're its almost 100% !!! But I'm getting a short somewhere between the 4xW switch I believe. I managed to by searching the internet like a  fiend, got my hands on an official Yamaha wire harness for the year and make. But I don't have the numbered component list and to be honest. After hours of going through and making everything so it's  easy to reference. If anyone has a picture of the referenced components. I would be forever in your debt. I've spent hours marking up the blown up diagram so it will be easy, for any possible future repairs. Please and thank you. Here's a picture of what i have so far.  Unsealed it in plastic so oil and crap won't spill or get smudged. This damn things worth it's weight in gold.              Thanks Jeff                2007 Yamaha big bear 400 IRS.       YFM40FBW
    • By joshualutz
      so we got this little lt80 given to us when we bought my sons dirtbike as kind of a throw in gift it was just sitting not being used and my youngest fell in love with it so the gentleman we bought the bike from said we could take it as well for a little project 

×
×
  • Create New...