Quantcast
Jump to content


MIKUNI carb question and problem


fyredude

Recommended Posts

Recently acquired a 99 Polaris Sportsman 335.  Spark plugs foul within 45 minutes of operation.  Suspect carburation as the problem.  Keep reading that it is most likely a plugged pilot jet and needs to be cleaned or adjusted.  I have a Mikuni with ID numbers of 33F02A and underneath those there is E812.  The problem:   there is no pilot adjustment screw.  Nothing but a brass plug with a tiny hole where I would have suspected the screw to be.  There is no other adjustment other than the idle adjustment screw.  How does a person adjust air/fuel mixture on this carb?  Thanks for you help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to drill a small hole in the brass plug(sounds like it's already been done) and screw a self tapping screw into it and use that to pull the plug out, then there is an adjusting screw under there.

It would be unusual though for the idle mixture to foul a plug after 45 minutes operation. Does it idle ? Does the choke work, and turn off properly ?Are you sure it's fouling with petrol ? Does it smoke at all ?

Edited by Mech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your response.  In response to your questions: it idles and starts fine.  The chock does work and is required to start it when cold.  The plug is heavily coated with soot after running for a period of time.  When cleaned or changed, it runs like it is a new engine.  When operating, it starts smooth then it will start to miss occasionally then the miss becomes more consistent until it almost stops running.  If I pull the plug and change it, it runs well again before a repeat performance of missing.  Gas has been changed, fuel and air filters replaced, vacuum lines have been checked and the only thing left is to change out the carb.  Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. That's a much more informative explanation.. It does sound like carby, not the idle but possibly the needle or main jet, or float height, but before I went pulling it off again(since you sound like you know your stuff), I'd check the spark was a good one at the plug. If the plug cap comes off the lead, you could take that off and jury rig the wire on the plug for a while, a small split pin can be poked into the wire and fitted to the plug end perhaps.

The other thing is, are you sure you have the right heat range plug for your riding conditions ? Have you tried one one step hotter ? Are you using NGK plugs ?

 

Edited by Mech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the input.  It really helps.  I am going to try a hotter plug.  I am running NGK - currently a 7 and will try a 6.  I have acquired a replacement carb also.  When I removed the original one, I spoke of the brass plug preventing access to the pilot adjustment.  As suggested, I removed the plug.  The screw was there but that sucker will not budge.  I tried everything.  I think MIKUNI glued that thing in.  Anyway, I appreciate the help and rest assured, I will have it running like new shortly.  One problem is consistent and that is some engineer designed these carbs so you need magical powers to adjust the pilot screw with the carb installed.  Most have worked for Ford at some point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes screwing it out makes the idle richer.

They are mongrols to adjust alright.  I made a tool to do it.. there's a picture in here somewhere. Probably a bit much trouble for occasional use, but the recommended settings is just a starting point really.they do run nicer with the mixture fine tuned.

https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/16053-carby-adjusting/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Flash_fella
      I had a sudden loss of spark in my 1988 Suzuki LT300E quadrunner and we tried a new plug but still no spark. Then we checked the boot and there was no issues with it. I then took off the coil as I was going to get a resistance reading with a multimeter however I cannot find anywhere what the readings should be. The coil is a Mitsubishi F6T 411. Any help would be appreciated. 
    • By Werewolf
      Oil is getting in the air box from crankcase vent tube, I put the two hoses that go to the air box together then something started to smoke on the front of the engine. There is a filter? In the line I blew that out.
    • By Brantley11
      Hey everybody,
       
      My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED!
       
      This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds. 
       
      Here is where we sit:
      Brand New Fully Charged battery
      Carb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner
      New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version)
      Cleaned out petcock and gas tank
      New 93 Non Ethanol Gas
      New Spark Plug
       
      It gets a spark through the spark test light every time
      Bluish white spark
      When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head
      Good Compression
       
      Here are the readings:
       
      Pickup Coil 519 Ohms (range 459-561)
      Charging Coil 266 Ohms (range 270-330)
      Lighting Coil 0.700 (range 0.702-0.858)
      Spark plug Cap 10.58 Ohms (10kohms
      Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms)
      Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.48 kOhms)
       
      Would y'all think stator and pick up coil, rectifier or CDI are the culprit?
       
    • By Spritee1
      having an issue with the unit when running under a load up a hill or in high gear, seems like the belt is slipping, there is a clapping sound coming from the primary clutch like it releases and snaps back in. i don't think I should have a noise like that. this is a friends unit and he has already replaced the primary twice with the same result.
      not sure where to look next
    • By justent_88
      Hello, im looking for some input on this situation i have. My 94 Mojave has no spark, and i have no idea what it is. Ive replaced/tested the magneto, the pickup coil, cdi, the ignition coil. Even the key and Killswitch. I haven't tested the harness its self, but i have tried another harness and still nothing. The only thing i can think of is the fly wheel itself. I have found a lot of metal shavings in the fly wheel and have cleaned it the best I could. But nothing happened afterwards. I am truly stumped here and hoping some of yous could shed some knowledge/ideas that could help get this thing to fire. 
×
×
  • Create New...