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2004 Suzuki Eiger wheels locked


Gwbarm

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I just recently acquired a 2004 Suzuki Eiger it will crank and run, but the wheels are locked, I took the drive shaft loose and the wheels will now roll so I know its not the rear end or brakes.. The neutral light is on and when I shift gears neutral light goes off but then comes back on . The reverse high and low shifter was stuck but I got it freed up but doesn't seem to do anything and does not move freely, never had one of these, but I would think that there should be a click when it locks in gear this just moves  no clicks.. The foot shifter feels like its working or maybe I should say not stuck, but never goes in gear. I can see that the left side cover has been taken off at some point and it has a new shift linkage. Im suspecting that something isn't right in there. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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Yup, if the output shaft is locked solid it's either something seized, such as a bearing, in which case you'd probably be able to get a bit of movement out of it by forcing/rotating the output shaft back and forwards, or as Dave says, the gears are stuck in two gears. The later sounds more likely since the shift doesn't seem right.

If it's a four wheel drive.. perhaps the front diff is playing up.. It's a solid drive between the front and rear drives, and four wheel gets engaged in the front diff..  Well that's what our local models are like, but we don't get eigers.

If you can't suss it let us know, and what you have found, and I'll download a manual and have a read..

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Thank for the reply it does have selectable 4 wheel drive and the front wheels are not locked up but don't know if it actually works. I did look at a repair manual didn't really help with diagnosing the problem other than transmission not functioning solution fix transmission, but it is very good at showing how to take things apart and put back together, when I can I will download the one here and see if its better. The eiger doesn't seem to be as popular as some of the other Suzukis but I've been impressed with it so far with all the abuse its had the steering is still tight like new. Im afraid im going to have to pull the engine and go into the trnsmission. 

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It does sound like inside the main cases but it's a good idea to take the control cables off first and check if it can be changed and put out of lock up somehow. They have to come off to get the motor out anyway. Then if you end up taking the engine out it would be an idea to take the side cases off and inspect the gear change mechanisms for some simplish problem, before taking the head and barrel off.

I'll have a look at a manual...

 

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Thanks so much for your help I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I did take the control cable off from the stator side, that cable goes to the fender mount shift, hi, lo, and reverse. The cable is free, so something tight inside the cover, but it does move from end to end, just no clicks or stops to designate what gear you are in. My game plan before I pull the engine is to pull that cover see what's going on in there, the flywheel magnets have a reputation for coming loose . It does run but not for very long, typical symptom of missing magnets. If no luck there, pull the clutch cover there is a little spring on the gear change mechanism that can break. I can do these things without pulling the engine, I think. I did put a magnet down the oil checking hole didn't pull out any metal pieces, so I thought that was a good sign. I really hope I don't have to pull the engine im either getting older or the engines are getting heavier. Thanks again for your help!

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I was trying to imagine last night what could cause it to get two gears at once, because they have interlocks to prevent that, and the only thing I could think of was that perhaps the shaft can get end float causing it. It might pay to check the shafts can't move end-wards if one of the nuts holding the clutch on, comes loose.. or the selector barrel looks like it's located in a bearing that prevents end float, by the detent plate and a small bolt.. If the denent plate was loose, the changes wouldn't work right, and the shifter forks could move the gears along and possibly engage two gears at once. The detent is in the outer case.

Edited by Mech
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