Quantcast
Jump to content


'03 Yamaha Kodiak 400 not taking throttle


alexwv1863
Go to solution Solved by alexwv1863,

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I have an issue with my dad's 03 Yamaha Kodiak 400. It had been running great but he left it sitting for a short amount of time. When he started it, it ran fine for a little bit but all of a sudden it quit taking gas. I thought it may have been the carb because it him not running it. The carb ended up being pretty clean. He put it back on and after taking it off and cleaning again, I'm beginning to wonder what it could be. It'll start and idle just fine, but when you go to give it throttle, it'll die out. It sounds like it's not getting air right but idk where to look or what else it could be. I'm stumped and need to figure this out before I go crazy. Anyone have any ideas???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does still sound like a carb problem. The mixture screw is under a plug at the bottom front of the carb, sometimes trash will make its way in there and you have to take the plug out to remove the mixture screw to clean it. Also the emulsion tube could be dirty its under the main jet, kind of have to push on it to get it out. You might have already done that, just a thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank y'all. I've cleaned the carb twice. I guess a third wouldn't hurt. I thought it was a carb issue too and maybe we put something back in the wrong place. It's my dad's 4 wheeler and he got it off some boy, so there's some tubes hanging down that I don't know where they're supposed to go. It also has a regular petcock on it and not the factory one that has an extension for the knob to stick out under the gas tank. If that was changed before he got it, come to think of it, I believe the carb is a generic one. I don't remember Seeing Mikuni on it anywhere. If y'all think of something else I could check, please let me know. this is driving me crazy because I know it's something simple I'm overlooking. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not that this really matters, but it's an 01 not 03 Yamaha. Just wanted to make that known in case someone needing help comes across this thread later on. 

I have tried everything that I know of to get the carb to run correctly. I've used the brush cleaners, carb cleaner, checked visually after cleaning, blew thru jets, adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw both ways. I couldn't get the screen tube out that's under the float needle. In the process of trying to get it out, I created grooves inside where the belt valve slides and now the carb leaks a little because the float is sticking. I tried everything to get that little sucker out and it wouldn't budge even a little. I have given up and ordered a new carb. Even though it's a Chinese carb, I hope it'll be alright in the end. It should be here any day now. I'll let y'all know what happens when I get the new one installed. 

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions. It's greatly appreciated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chinese carb should get you running probably have to do some major cable adjustments, don’t throw your original mikuni away, that part I think you are referring to is the needle seat I’m sure it’s replaceable I just can’t remember if it pulls out or screws out I will take a look I have a similar big bear carb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll try that with the other carb. I don't think it's a mikuni tho. So, he got the new carb, put it on yesterday and still having the same issue. It sounds like it's not getting enough gas or too much. Also, when I went thru the carb before installing it, the needle valve doesn't move up and down in the needle seat like it does on other carbs. All the float does is push in on the button on top of the valve. Is this a normal thing or not? I don't know what I'm missing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it not an original OEM Mikuni carb i would just put on the new carb you ordered and see how thats works out, it will be fine. Its not normal for the needle to not move with the float there should be a little wire holder to attach it to the float, as the float moves up and down so does the needle. Sometimes inside the seat can get a little sticky and gummy and cause it to get sticky, i put a qtip in my drill with a little tooth paste on it to polish it up a bit and do the same on the needle sides, it slides a little smoother in the seat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I reread the thread and didn`t see if you drained the fuel and added fresh. Maybe you did and didn`t mention it? If not, catch some from the float bowl in a clean container and see if is laden with moisture. With gasohol, it can suspend quite a bit of moisture before it separates. In earlier stages it just gets somewhat cloudy. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Solution

I just wanted to post saying I finally figured out what was wrong. After putting on the second new carb, it still wasn't taking throttle. So, trying to problem solve, I placed my hand on the air intake boot that's right in front of the seat between the seat and gas tank. I cupped my hand over it and it took throttle.. Took it for a test drive and realized that it needed the plastic tank cover on because it was sucking too much air into that boot and causing it to stall out. 

So if anybody comes across this thread that's having a similar issue, try putting the gas tank cover on and see if it connects the issue like it did mine.

Thank you to those who commented trying to help me figure it out. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Need-help-with-quads
      So I have an 89 Yamaha moto 4 250cc and when I ride it, itll get hot after like 10-15 mins and then will just die and turn off.
      It's has new carb rebuild, new air filter, new battery, new spark plug so I don't think it's a crack in the spark plug
      Can anyone help me?
    • By Brantley11
      Hey everybody,
       
      My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED!
       
      This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds. 
       
      Here is where we sit:
      Brand New Fully Charged battery
      Carb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner
      New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version)
      Cleaned out petcock and gas tank
      New 93 Non Ethanol Gas
      New Spark Plug
       
      It gets a spark through the spark test light every time
      Bluish white spark
      When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head
      Good Compression
       
      Here are the readings:
       
      Pickup Coil 519 Ohms (range 459-561)
      Charging Coil 266 Ohms (range 270-330)
      Lighting Coil 0.700 (range 0.702-0.858)
      Spark plug Cap 10.58 Ohms (10kohms
      Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms)
      Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.48 kOhms)
       
      Would y'all think stator and pick up coil, rectifier or CDI are the culprit?
       
    • By oxidized_black
      Yamaha ATV manuals are located in the downloads section here at QUADCRAZY.
      Please visit the downloads section at https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/
      Get 15% at emanualsonline.com with coupon code EMOAFF
      Get 20% at emanualsonline.com with coupon code BLAZE and $50 purchase
      Clymer ATV Manual - Yamaha Raptor 700R
       
    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi guys
      My 87 Bear 350 won't start and could use a hand.
      Turn key on and Oil light turns on and then slowly fades out. (I think this is key to this) No start, not even a tick.
      battery and connections good
      A Solenoid post jump turns it over
      Neutral Safety Switch wire attached and seems good
      It has not had a wire/switch on Rear Brake Pedal ever since I had it.
      Any thoughts on some other things to troubleshoot this??
×
×
  • Create New...