Quantcast
Jump to content


1992 quadrunner 300 4x4 engine not spinning free


97kingquad
Go to solution Solved by 97kingquad,

Recommended Posts

I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable. 

 

So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase. 

I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.

 

What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.

So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.

It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner. 

I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine.  I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.

So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket) 

So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that. 

So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is? 

1701462772462702321225018585689.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first thought is the head from the parts bike might be not be an exact fit, especially after you said it seemed tighter after installing the valve cover, or are the valve covers different from head to head, might check that. I would take the valve cover back off and see if they are any shiny areas where it is rubbing.  That engine was a mess you have done an amazing amount of work to get it right. Very impressed with your dedication!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting, since you have the old head back on , try running it and see how it goes, if problematic you could try rebuilding it, or you could use the other head and double gasket the valve cover and see if it gives you enough clearance, but there might be discrepencies other places that would cause problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Gwbarm said:

Interesting, since you have the old head back on , try running it and see how it goes, if problematic you could try rebuilding it, or you could use the other head and double gasket the valve cover and see if it gives you enough clearance, but there might be discrepencies other places that would cause problems.

I can not find any gasket kits for the valve cover. I have bought 3 rebuild kits for different bikes and none come with a valve cover gasket so I can't double gasket. I did think that maybe there is supposed to be some room between the two mating surfaces so I ok it some rtv and let it sit finger tight overnight so I'll tighten it down and see how it is. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Solution
On 12/2/2023 at 2:11 AM, Gwbarm said:

Interesting, since you have the old head back on , try running it and see how it goes, if problematic you could try rebuilding it, or you could use the other head and double gasket the valve cover and see if it gives you enough clearance, but there might be discrepencies other places that would cause problems.

So I have come to admit my wrong and in the event anyone else is suffering a similar issue. 

I put the starter gear on backwards lol I switched it around and now everything is working as it should. Putting the stator cover back on now and we will see if she will fire up then 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did see your revival of the Arctic Cat. Very nice. I have not had the oportunity to own an Arctic Cat, but i understand the 2 suzukis i have share the same engine as the Cat. Im in the south and while there are a few around, mostly the 4 Js, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, and Suzuki. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By hardcastle
      My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Louznmemind
      Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues...  It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle?? 
    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...