Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello, been lurking for a while fixing some of my problems after reading others unfortunate issues. However I can’t find the answers I need. Back story I have a 03 Kodiak 450. A coworker was going to take it to the dump, he said it wouldn’t run. Some mice got in there while it was stored for a few years and chewed up the wire harness. All the wheels were locked up and he didnt want to mess with it. Not knowing if it would run, for a week or so I spliced most of the wires back together. Replaced all the brake calipers and rear brake cable and rebuilt the carb. So far I have put 30ish miles on the bike and seems to run decently. Now my questions. When I put it in gear and the display light showed it is in gear I have to bump the throttle to make it actually go into drive or reverse. It doesn’t slam In gear but kind acts if you let the clutch out to fast on a manual. Is that normal, seems it’s thinking about going In gear then it goes after tapping the throttle. 2nd question, when I use the diff. Lock it acts like it is in a limp mode just by accelerating the lest little bit. It starts to sputter and won’t allow it to have any power. It only does this with the diff lock on. 3rd. The display is stuck on KMH. How do I change it to MPH. I followed all the steps I saw on YouTube with no luck. When I got power to the display it was in MPH but it switched its self and now I can’t get it back. Next are the rear u-joint the same as the front u-joints. I have sprung a oil leak from the rear diff at the drive shaft and need to replace the seal. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help. I’m sure I will find more things in the future. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Most of the things you describe could be related to a low idle speed. You might try increasing the idle speed and see if anything changes. The diff lock takes more power  from the engine, but it should not sputter, hard to diagnose without seeing exactly what is happening, does it get better when you increase engine speed.  There could also be something in the diff lock that is not engaging correctly. There are cables that operate these things that might need to be adjusted. As far as the MPH and KPH there may still be something in the wiring that you put back together that is not exactly right. You might try killing the power to the display then power it back up and see if it reverts back to MPH. Like i said hard to diagnose with actually being there but these are the things i would check.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks. I was wondering if the idle is a bit low. I don’t have anything to compare it to. I will turn it up a bit and see what happens. With the diff lock the more throttle I give it the more it sputters as if it’s in a safety mode or something like that. 

  • Like 1
Posted

If the diff lock is sputtering more the more throttle you give it , it does sound like an electrical contact problem maybe a safety switch i would have to pull up a schematic to see, but for starters i would check all the electrical connectors associated with the diff lock and i will look and see if i can find a manual and take a look.

  • Like 1
Posted

You should get the owners manual and read that because the diff lock might be a safety feature, or a safety feature playing up, but it might have some clue.  Check the brake switches, too, those interfere with running if they are playing up. Could be the two are interconnected with some safety feature.. It might be that you are only meant to operate diff lock at very low speed or gear too..

The not shifting into gear straight away sounds like low idle and no drag in the centrifugal clutch to make the gear's revolve slowly which normally let them align and slip in when you move the lever. If they go into gear if you rock the bike back and forwards a little after you've moved the lever, then it's doing the same thing, rotating gear shafts. If that works then I wouldn't worry about it. Check the idle speed.

The owners manual will probably tell you how to set the speedo's language etc.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well this is useful..

"NOTE:_
Holding in the TRIP/ODO button and then
turning the key to ON switches the display
between mph and km/h.".

And this...

'1. Override switch OVERRIDE
EBU13781
Override switch OVERRIDE
Top speed is normally limited when operating
in 4WD-LOCK. If conditions require more en-
gine power when riding forward, push and
hold this switch to override the 4WD-LOCK
speed limiting function. (See page 4-11 for a
detailed explanation about the differential".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Chucksta
      So.. It has now become cranky about changing from "drive" to "reverse". Sometimes it's seamless as it's always been, other times it just goes "click, click....click, click " when going from reverse to forward, or from forward to reverse..  Then it gives up and just stops at neutral.  Only thing that seems to help is to give it a bit of a bump / wiggle with my own weight. Any ideas as to what to check? It's low miules / hours .. Dealership maintained..  
    • By KdlH
      Hello.
      I'm new to the forum, I live in the UK. I have just bought a 1995 Yamaha Moto 4 350.
      Generally the condition isn't too bad (I paid very little for it!), it looks quite original and all the plastics are quite good. The bad bits are no brakes, the rear axle bearings are shot and the transmission won't shift through the gears properly.
      I'm not planning on a full rebuild but I would like to sort it out a bit. The transmission is my main concern. If anyone has any ideas on what might be the cause I would be grateful. I can explain what's happening in more detail if required.
      Thanks everyone,
      Kester
       



    • By Vlaco
      Hi. I just joined the community. I have a sheep farm and use a Polaris 500HO, Polaris 700efi and a JD Gator 825i for different jobs around the farm. I do all the repairs myself so I am sometimes needing some advice and maybe I can be of some help to others as well. 
    • By Sportsman500guy
      I bought a 1996 Sportsman 500 4x4 about a month ago, and I love it. Unfortunately, I've been experiencing a few problems with the high-range gear. The first problem is that the gear selector will intermittently pop out of high and into neutral. This problem will sometimes occur when starting from a stop and sometimes will also occur while at cruising speed. The last time this happened I stopped and put it back into gear, however, as soon as I tried to throttle the machine would die. I turned it on again with no problems put it back into high and it died again. Once again I turned it on with no problems put it into low instead and it worked fine with no problem. I drove in low down the road slowly for a little and then shifted back into high with no issues. 
         I plan on working on it this weekend and would just like some opinions or feedback from anyone who may have experienced these problems before. I'm very mechanically inclined but im unsure of exactly where to start as this is the first Polaris ATV that I've owned. Any feedback is appreciated and thanks in advance  
    • By disturbedmike244
      I have a 99 kodiak 400 4x4 that blows a fuse under the back left fender as soon as you attempt to put a new one in even with the key turned off. I'm having a hard time finding any wiring diagrams that show what this is for. And I'm trying not to have to tear into the wire harness. Any help would be appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...