Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello.

I'm new to the forum, I live in the UK. I have just bought a 1995 Yamaha Moto 4 350.

Generally the condition isn't too bad (I paid very little for it!), it looks quite original and all the plastics are quite good. The bad bits are no brakes, the rear axle bearings are shot and the transmission won't shift through the gears properly.

I'm not planning on a full rebuild but I would like to sort it out a bit. The transmission is my main concern. If anyone has any ideas on what might be the cause I would be grateful. I can explain what's happening in more detail if required.

Thanks everyone,

Kester

 

20241220_163647.jpg

20241220_163204.jpg

20241220_163142.jpg

Edited by KdlH
Edited title
  • KdlH changed the title to Hello, I'm new to the forum
Posted

Hi. Welcome along.

You'd better explain in more detail how the shift's working (or not).

I take it you're used to bike shifters ? Know about using the throttle to get them to change nicely etc.. ? Rocking the bike to get it to go in or out of a gear sometimes, (especially if the engine's not running) ?

Posted

Hi Mech,

I rode a 1987 Kawasaki klf300 growing up. I assume the yamaha will shift similar? 

While rocking it, the first shift up from neutral most times doesn't find a gear, second shift does and then the next shift might find "neutral" (the light doesn't light).  

Thanks for the help.

Posted

Well rocking the bike as a way to get the gear's to change isn't the most reliable. It's a bit hit and miss which way the bike needs pushing to get the last shift fully done, and the next gear attempted, and sometimes you need to push hard enough to get the engine to turn over. To test a suspect shift fault I always jack the bike up and turn the wheels, or run the engine. If you rocked the bike enough and kept on trying it, and sometimes shifting down a bit, pushing, then trying the shift again, it should eventually shift through all the gears.

If it really can't get each gear after a lot of turning the wheels, and sometimes turning them quite forcefully if needed to turn the gearbox input shaft, then it's perhaps got teeth missing off several gears, or, the shift ratchet mechanism isn't working properly. The ratchet mechanism is I think on the left side on that bike, under that cover.. If there is bad damage in the gears, the oil will have metal, either dust, flakes or even chunks. The dust and flakes might be obvious if you use a wire to dip a bit of oil out of the oil filler, or, take the oil filter out and inspect it.

You could also test carefully to ascertain which gears it is and isn't getting, then figure out whether it's the shift mechanism or the gear teeth that have the fault. The fact that each cog us used for two different ratios will be how you tell if it's cog/tooth broken. If you check and tell me which gears you can get and which you can't get, I'll look at the exploded parts diagrams and figure if it's a gear or not.

If you haven't got a service manual yet, Babbits parts have exploded diagrams of the gears and the shift mechanism.

Posted

Thanks Mech.

I will check it out some more and report back.

The engine does run but with the combination of absolutely no brakes, the rear axle bearings being completely destroyed and not knowing the condition of the oil/filter, I didn't want to drive it too much to keep trying to shift it.

I haven't got a service manual yet. Thanks for the info on the Babbits parts diagrams, they will be very useful.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

You should be able to get all the gears if you jack it up and turn the rear wheels enough.

When you are looking at the parts diagrams you'll find they generally have the gears, and the gear shift mechanisms on separate pages. The fault will be in one page or the other. It's unlikely to have problems with shifting as well as the actual drive.

The shift mechanism is a ratchet mechanism to let the shift lever return to center between shifts, a start shaped washer that helps it move fully into gear once you've moved it over half way to the next gear, and another short lever and swash plate and ball bearings that disengage the clutch as you shift gears. The problem if it has one in the shift mechanism will be with the ratchet (lever, spring or pins the lever engages with), or spring loaded star washer part. The clutch operating part you can ignore in the diagrams. The pins the ratchet engages with may be shown in the gear section because they are on the end of the shift barrel which is normally in with the gears.

Edited by Mech
  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By fwsamm
      Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
    • By P_syko
      I’m brand new to 4 wheelers and just bought a 1987 Yamaha Moto 4 350. It has good compression and fuel, but no spark. I’ve looked high and low trying to find how to test all the components of the ignition system, but can’t find anything. This has a new CDI box on it, but I suspect it might be the stator. How do I test the stator on this? Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
    • By kaidella
      Bought 4 wheeler for kids. Used to run and soon as it was put in gear it died. I have put new carburater, new plug and battery. The neutral light won't come on. I replaced the solenoid, then the positive battery cable and today put new relay assembly on. Still no neutral light. Not getting any juice and I don't know why.
    • By P_syko
      Hello all! I’m new to the 4 wheeler world, but not new to the mechanic world. I was a diesel mechanic for many years and last year got into jet skis. I just bought a 1987 Yamaha moto 4 350 and now learning the ins and outs of 2 stroke engines. Looking forward to learning all the things. 
    • By P_syko
      Does the 1987 moto 4 350 have a low oil sensor that kills spark? Or are these too old for that kind of thing? 
×
×
  • Create New...