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Posted

Just bought this machine for $250 thinking should be good for parts, but now I want to see if I can make it run and ride. It turns over with compression when I put power to the starter, so that made me want to try. It was flipped and then sold to a parts guy who hacked the wiring BAD and left to sit for several years. They tried to bypass everything on the ES by cutting the main power wires from the fuse box and running a new power wire to the dash and straight wiring the fan. It is crazy bad. I need a wiring diagram and will try to get power back to everything that should have it and then do the electric shift manual bypass. Right now it is missing the coil/wires, the dash and shift buttons/start switch is smashed, ignition wires are twisted together... Yeah, it is a mess. Pics to follow! Any help, ideas, manuals, pics, drawings, etc are welcome! 

Posted

If you're searching for used parts to fix this beast, try PSN (PowerSportsNation) out of Norfolk, NE.

They are a big outfit that specialize in parting out quads & UTV's, like 30+ machines a week. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I am gathering parts now. So that will be a great tip to follow up on, thanks. What I really need right now is a wiring diagram so I can see what all has been hacked out of the system. 

IMG_20250118_115224459[1].jpg

Edited by pastorjeep
misspelled words
Posted

That sounds like a fun project, glad you decided to revive it, definately worth the attention, first thing i would do is get the ignition circuit working and see if the engine runs. It sounds like it has been parted out for some reason with so many parts missing.

  • Like 1
Posted

I believe it will. Thank you. The first step is to get power t all the right places and then establish spark. Once I get it running I will work on a way to manual shift the electric shift motor. 

Posted

The shift lever fits on a shaft down the left side of the engine, near the back... You can use it to get home, and they say to see if the shift motor is trying to work but weak, use the button while you put gentle pressure on the lever. You can check there are all five speeds too, and other tests..

  • Like 1
Posted

Found it, the PO has jammed a socket on it. I was looking at a manual "electric" shift override kit on ebay for $20. It is supposed to allow you to shift with the button by overriding the the ecu and angle sensor as best I understand it? Anyway for $20 it sounds like a neat trick. 

Posted (edited)

I think it's just a short wiring loom.

We don't have any reason to suspect the computer or anything else at this stage so I'd carry on fixing the electrics.

The computer will stop the gear shift working if the dash isn't plugged in.. There are probably other things that will also deactivate or disable the gear shift.

I'd jack the bike up and try that manual shift while I was rotating and rocking the wheels. It might take a lot of rocking and turning to change right up to top and back down. I think I've "seen" people in the forums misdiagnose their gearbox because they didn't rotate the wheels enough to allow the shifts to work. Sometimes you have to muscle the wheel around by force causing the engine to rotate as well.

Sometimes you need to leave it in gear and turn the wheels and after that it slips into the next gear, sometimes you shift it while turning the wheels and it slips into gear, and sometimes you need to go back a gear and rotate the wheels and after that  you carry on and it will slip into the next gear either with or without rotating the wheels. Test it a lot with lots of turning.

Edited by Mech
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just a little update for everyone. I traced all the wires repairing any cut wires along the way. The two main power wires from fuse box and the fan wires were cut. The carb heater wires are cut but the harness plug is there. I don't think I need it right now. The starter solenoid wires broke off right at the body of the solenoid with not enough left to repair, new one should be here Monday. Took me a while to find the coil wires as they were under the rear frame cross member. I installed a new coil, ignition switch, multi/shift switch and a battery today and turned the key and the dash lit up! Yes!! The shift indicator was flashing as was the clock. Jumped the solenoid to see if I had spark...nope. Removed the ECU and cleaned all connections and heated it with a heat gun hooked it back up and spark! Poured a little gas into the carb and boom she runs!!!!!!! I did the code check and I am getting code 5 and 11. I am amazed this thing cranked right up. My son and I looked at each other in disbelief, Lol. 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

You have been busy, great work getting it rewired and started

This is a list of the honda trouble codes

 

Code 1 - Ignition Pulse Generator system 
Code 2 - Speed Sensor System 
Code 3 - Gear Position Switch System 
Code 4 - Throttle Sensor System 
Code 5 - Angle Sensor System (Motor lock i.e., angle sensor, wiring, ECM, control 
motor, motor transmission section, transmission unit) 
Code 6 - Angle Sensor System (swash plate angle, sensor / wiring) 
Code 7 - ESP shift switch system 
Code 8 - ECM EEPROM 
Code 9 - ECM voltage converter circuit 
Code 10 - ECM fail-safe relay circuit 
Code 11 - ECM motor drive circuit 
Code 12 - ECM CPU

  • Like 1
Posted

Turning the ignition switch off will reset the computer for temp. codes. To initialize the computer have the switch off, tranny in neutral, and mode select switch in D1 or D2. Hold both the up and down shift buttons and turn the switch on. then release and press up - down - up, move the throttle lever from fully closed to fully open and then back to fully closed. This all has to be done pretty fast and should here the control motorcycle.

This step is extremely important hold you jaw to left a little bit but not too much and grit your teeth a little.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hope to take it for a ride tomorrow. Looks like I probably need a shift motor. 

Edited by pastorjeep
It keeps posing the same video?
Posted

haha.. I dunno but I had the same problem.. I went to make a post and it somehow got that vid in my post.. I cancelled the post becuase it kept doing it.

The site has another problem the other day too. I reported to the Admin and he had it fixed in about an hour.. Contact the Admin..

I'd try using the manual shift lever and the buttons at the same time. If the shift motor is a bit weak your manual input will assist it to make the shift.. If the motor is trying to do the shift, you'll feel it assist your manual shift. If the motor isn't working at all, you will hopefully notice that. I think if you try a manual upshift, while pushing the down button, the two will fight oneother and you'll feel that.. I think.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hit clear editor and it will go away then you can type in your new post, been happening to me also. I also didnt get new notifications for a few days but seems to be working right now. Really appreciate the Admin for keeping this site running good.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

#17.. That's for another transmission Gw..  That's a variable ratio hydraulic transmission they call an "auto".

(Edited to correct my confusing forums and bikes.).  haha

Edited by Mech
Posted

Not sure I follow you, this is a two clutch system in 2004 but isn't it just a centrifugal clutch and a shifting clutch? Isn't the DCT system in a lot newer quads than this one?

  • Like 1
Posted

Doh..  I'm an idiot..  The DCT is in another forum..  I really must pay more attention.. 

This bike is a five speed with an electric shift, and the usual centrifugal clutch and a plate clutch for shifting..

  • Like 2
Posted

The starter solenoid came in today but I was busy at the office all day and then had to go tonight 3 hour drive to pick up a 2001 TRX350TM to rehab, that will be another thread. I was able to use paint striper on the plastic and get it pretty clean. Tomorrow I have a busy morning (podcast filming on Tue/Thur) but should be home by noon or 1 and will hopefully take it for a test ride. I did ohm test the shift motor tonight and got 13 ohms. I need to see what the acceptable range is. I don't here anything at the motor so I will test voltage while hitting the shift button as well. Thanks for the encouraging words! 

Posted

It seems that the ECU may be bad. When i turn the key to the on position the gear indicator blinks five times. It I do the test procedure (hold buttons, turn key on, release buttons, press and hold buttons for 3 seconds) I get 1 blink, five blinks, and five blinks which I am interpreting to be code 11. That is the test procedure, but when I simply turn the key on normally it blinks five times continually. 

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