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Posted

Hello! Yes wiring can be quite the headache. It helps if you have a wiring diagram so you know what is what, but honestly I have been able to replace partial sections without them.

I tend to acquire a lot of old projects or barn finds, with mouse damage to the wiring. If i cant find a good diagram online, I will mark the front (headlight) with some tape, and then just take the harness off the bike completely. 

Take a picture of the harness laid out with all connectors visible, then very carefully open up the tape and casing from the harness, then take another picture.

At this point you will be able to assess melted wires, mouse damage, corrosion, pinched or rubbed wires, etc. 

Measure the total length of the harness, and then determine the wire gauge required for the repairs (If you cant, you can take a small piece of the damaged wire section with you and compare.

It is best to replace as much of the wire as possible in the event of Corrosion or melted wires. Any exposed copper should always be heat shrinked, and protected, and dont stress about the factory connectors, Most of them have the terminals clipped into them, it is possible with a small pick or flat blade to release the finger holding the terminal in place. I was able to do this on all of my previous harnesses. Remember, TAKE PICTURES before pulling out your terminals from the connectors.

If a repair was needed close to or at the connector, i would remove the terminal and try to solder the connection to the old copper and metal terminal, then heat shrink and clip back into the connector.

If you are patient, organized, and meticulous with your connections you will have a perfect harness in no time, and probably save yourself a lot of money too!

I just finished my 1987 Quadrunner harness that had melted itself together from a short circuit, which created more short circuits, which ultimately was what got it into my possession. It took me about a week, after work when i had time in my garage with a solder gun, heat gun, heat shrink tubing, wires, and some crimp connectors for less than $30. I also replaced the casing with a new one since it had caught on fire previously. 👨‍🚒

 

Let me know if you have general electrical questions. Ive done 4 harnesses previously, and spent about 8 years as an industrial electrician making harnesses for robots. I dont know much about your particular machine, but we can repair or replace anything we put our minds to. 🤙

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, vaneleus said:

Hello. Wiring is my weak spot too. I find reading the wiring diagrams nonsensical. 

Its definitely not easy, it took me awhile to get the hang of reading them. It wasnt untill i did it for work that it finally clicked.

Posted

NEW TO SITE AND WAS TRYING TO GET TORQUE SPEC ON ONE WAY STARTER CLUTCH BOLTS ON 2007 BAYOU 250   PICKED UP CHEAP AND SOMEONE PUT THE THREE BOLTS IN WITH IMPACT GUN AND WEAKENED THE BOLTS SO THEY STRIPED AND BROKE.

Posted

I agree at first you just see lines diagrams and color codes that dont make sense once you look at them long enough and hard enough everything begins to come together.

  • Like 1
Posted
23 hours ago, RONZZONI said:

NEW TO SITE AND WAS TRYING TO GET TORQUE SPEC ON ONE WAY STARTER CLUTCH BOLTS ON 2007 BAYOU 250   PICKED UP CHEAP AND SOMEONE PUT THE THREE BOLTS IN WITH IMPACT GUN AND WEAKENED THE BOLTS SO THEY STRIPED AND BROKE.

Welcome to QC from Colorado !! Impact gun on these machines is nuts ! Did you get the bolts out ? 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

WELL GOT 2 OUT AND LAST ONE WOULDNT COME OUT   FOUND USED ONE ON EBAY  INSTALLED ALL AND SHES GOING NOW   SET BOLTS WITH 271 AND 16 NM TORQUE.

THANKS FOR THE SHOUT

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 4/26/2026 at 2:22 PM, Dutchaaron said:

New to the site. Im rebuilding a Kawasaki Bayou 300. The wiring is my biggest challenge.

Welcome to the forum Aaron!

I've also got a Bayou 300, My Dad bought ours new in 1986, first model year, had it my whole life I'm just a bit older than it is lol. 

For a wiring diagram check out my 3 posts at this other topic, I show my (Complicated) OEM Wiring Diagram and the SAME diagram re-drawn and simplified by my late Dad, as a tribute to him (lost him last May....:o), we're both electrical engineers. .  Same thing, believe it or not.

Now that is a "Schematic".  The OEM one is a "Wiring Diagram" (pet beef)...:o)

Hope this helps Aaron, do let me know if I can further assist!

Bellarmine

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

i picked up what was a Kawasaki 300 Bayou 4x4. something wrong with the engine. so we pulled that off and now put a 220 on that frame. basically the same engine. it will be just a 2 wheeler now. had to redue rear drive shaft to fit but thru the old harness on there for the220. somebody had already messed with it.  we all know chasing someone elses work sucks. Specially with a short somewhere. i checked the harness and rewrapped it. it tested alright. but when i start checking continuity. the starter main bolt both pos and neg have continuity to that positive bolt. the on/off switch seems to have continuity no matter where you put the switch. i'm wondering does anyone have like a voltage print what voltage is suppose to be where and when.

Posted

I t sounds like you may have a short to ground, i would pull the starter put 12 volts to it and make sure it spins properly and recheck your continuity readings. The start stop switch should not have continuity in both positions check the switch itself and not through the harness and see if you get the same reading.

Posted

Well remember that measuring continuity thru a good starter motor from pos to ground will be near 0 ohms, better to check for 12v thru the circuits.  Just a suggestion, let us know which circuits are giving you trouble, what works and what doesn't.  Cheers!~. Bellarmine

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