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  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadcrazy
      If you are a new member, why not introduce yourself? This community thrives and grows with you and all our current members! We all want this community to grow and encourage new member registrations. That being said please help out QuadCRAZY by inviting other atv'ers to the community.
      QUADCRAZY NEEDS YOU!
    • By Frank Angerano
      So I decided to pick up a small trailer if I could get one for the right price.  I found this one for a few hundred bucks on Craig’s list.  It is  a galvanized trailer which is exactly what I was looking for. The wood was shot and needed some minor repairs which I could care less about as long as the chassis was good. 
      I striped it down and put a new deck on. I had some vinyl realtree graphics that I had laying around so I added them to the fenders which I think worked out well. Very happy with this little guy.  
      I'm having the iron workers at my jobmake me up a few lightweight side rails that will have a 22 degree bend in them to accommodate the tires that slightly hang over the edge and will incorporate some tie down points as well. 








    • By flyinbrian365
      View File 2002-03 Series 11 Polaris Ranger service manual
      2002-03 Series 11 Polaris Ranger service manual 9918071
      Full service manual
      Submitter flyinbrian365 Submitted 10/18/2023 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By Jd101506
      Hi all! 
       
      So I’ve got a early model (86? Maybe?) (slide carb)Suzuki Quadrunner I’m working on. I’ve having a series of really wild fuel problems and I’m hoping someone could point me in the right direction. 
       
      So when I first got it the fuel pump and carb were both toast. Rusted, awful, unrebuildable messes. So I bought a pair of cheap Chinese ones of eBay and worked on the rest of it. 
       
      Carb arrives first. I install it, hook a battery up, mainline some fuel into the carb and it runs. Sounds great actually. Ok, cool, runs good, I’m fine. Wait a few days and the fuel pump shows up. Install and the quad runs like absolute dog crap. It would hesitate, stumble, stall, the works. It does sit and idle and start up quickly though. So I assume it’s the fuel pump, so I end up saying screw it and I buy an OEM one. 85$. Meantime I can still get it to run well with drip feeding it fuel. 
       
      New pump comes in and installed. Same thing. It stumbles, acts like it’s dying, may stall, etc. This new pump is an OEM Suzuki so my assumption is it’s fine? 
       
      I ended up swapping the carb wondering if the float or something is actually my problem. This is a different carb, a WELL REVIEWED Kipa carb from Amazon. I install that and I have a whole different set of problems… this carb will run at mid to high RPM, idle adjustment screw be damned. All the way in or all the way out it runs at the same RPM. I ended up taking the main slide and needle out and I swapped it for a different one and the RPM dropped. Not a lot but a little. So I try and drop the carb needle as low as I can and it’s still funky. Something isn’t right. 
       
      So after swapping that carb again I end up rebuilding the Mikuni carb from my Suzuki lt300, and swap the jets over from the Quadrunner rebuild kit I had ordered. Put that carb in and it does the same stupid high idle. I take the choke cable off the bike entirely and it makes no difference and the throttle cable has plenty of slack. As I’m standing there staring at it, it just suddenly drops the idle and sits there idling pretty happy… so I climb on, and it has the same annoying jerky, slow throttle response that the first eBay carb had. 
       
      So to recap:
      1x Kipa fuel pump kept pushing way too much fuel in. 
      1x OEM Suzuki fuel pump made the carb from eBay smoke like crazy and idle adjustment did absolutely nothing. I could go a full 2 turns from the stock setting of 1-3/4 turns out in either direction and get the same awful running 
       
      1x ebay carb worked well on a mainline of fuel right to the carb gravity fed. But runs like dogshit around the yard. Jerky and low idle and smoking on both the Kipa carbs and the OEM carb. 
      1x Kipa carb runs at super high RPM and won’t settle down no matter what I do with the cables or anything else. 
      1x rebuilt mikuni did the same as the Kipa but then randomly dropped rpm to idle and then started running like the ebay carb. 
       
      So I’m appealing to the brains here. I find it hard to believe I’ve tried this many carbs and such and I haven’t found a working solution. As an aside, I’ve swapped the plug, done an oil change, and done a general inspection. Compression test I haven’t done, and I haven’t adjusted the valves but it starts easily. And runs easily mainlining fuel.
       
      Sitting in the garage it sounds fine. I’m attaching a video of it running with the eBay carb and the OEM fuel pump. It’s just really weird. It feels like I’m flooding it because when it’s idling I can smell it and there is a little smoke from the tailpipe.
       
      Ill add more video tomorrow of it running like crap around the yard.  
      IMG_7396.mov
    • By DayBreakJim
      So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
      Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
      Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!

      20230725_171507.mp4    
       
       
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