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Similar Forum Topics
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By Its-always-something
Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
Any help and information greatly appreciated.
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By Kawinoob
So title tells all. achine was sitting for two years untouched.
I will post a picture with diagnostic path so far.
Replaced defective start solenoid, starter grinding but engaging.
Replaced all wiring in #1 splice with dark green, brown and red/white wires. Checked all other junctions.
Pull start works phenomenally and starts instantly.
Kill switch does absolutely nothing, but the key will stop the bike and allows it to start. Replaced key switch and pigtail at key switch. As of now all lighting is functional (was not before fixing it)
The Good:
-has new spark plug
-valves were adjusted
-key switch
-wiring appears in order after repair
-display functioning
-new battery
-always starts easily on pull rope
-etc switch
-pulsar coil
- ignition coil
I am replacing the bendix due to intermittent failure and gapping the pulsar tonight. Also, replacing battery cables and unplugging kill wire from cdi to isolate. Replacing battery wires to starter and ground cable.
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By matzie
I have my kids Baja Wilderness 90 and when we try to start it the thing goes forward. It is an automatic, when I try to push it backwards it has a lot of resistance and whines like in gear, but will push forward with little resistance. But, when I try to start it the thing lurches forward like in gear. Help please......
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By tkokenos
I just recently purchased a Polaris xpress 300 and have had a number of problems.. I purchased it in none running condition and found that it needed a top end done.. after completing the top end and not being able to find the oil drain plug for the engine, any kind of dip stick to check the oil, or any where that I could fill the engine with oil I was already frustated enough.. and then when i finally did get it started and tried to put it in gear and it would just grind(no matter what gear) My frustation has become monumental.. any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.. i've already tried to idle the engine down to it nearly stauling out and then tried putting it in gear and it would just grind, or if i tried to force it it would just staul out completely.. for fear of tearing up gears I would like some input procede any further..
Thomas,
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By Jeff Comstock
So it's been a while since I was on here begging for knowledge but....here I am again, like a bad penny.
So my 300 bayou was fine and I drive it close to 30 miles a day ( no joke, no license). I pulled over to light a cigar and drove 100 ft and started down a dip in the dirt road and it acted like it was out of gas (just filled the tank) but then when I tapped the brakes it started running fine.
Now it'll start but runs rough unless I turn on the headlights and brake light them it'll even out and at first it'll skip and backfire almost them it'll run fine untill it goes to idle them repeat above. If I sh** off the headlights it wants to die. My boss has the same 300 so I swapped battery and cdi and regulator with his and still the same jazz. Could it be the coil? Don't they do like old cars and just die? Also went I throw my voltmeter on the battery while it's running it sits at 9.87-.99 like it's not charging, did that even with different battery, reg., Cdi. Checked the grounds, all good. It's always been a rule that if a battery has only 9 volts then turning on the lights drains power and it runs worse. I'm confused like I just saw a churchmouse kick a barn cats butt
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