-
Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
-
Similar Tagged Content
-
By TwistingDicksThrottles
I dont even know what year it is yet but are these worth restoring?
was there a recall on these?
-
By Admin
Looking for Polaris ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Polaris ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Polaris ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Polaris ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.
The following Polaris ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
CycleVin.com - Use Our Off-Road Vehicle Search to look up ATVs and more!
KBB.com https://www.kbb.com/vehicle-history-report/
CARFAX https://www.carfax.com
autoDNA https://www.autodna.com
VinAudit http://www.vinaudit.com/
decodeTHIS https://www.decodethis.com
VINCario https://vindecoder.eu/
NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
-
By oxidized_black
Victory VIN Decoder @ Motoverse.com
CycleVin.com - Use Our Off-Road Vehicle Search to look up ATVs and more!
-
By jwline
Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was.
Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks.
-
By quadcrazy
1985 - 1995 Polaris ATV Service Manual (All Models)
Covers the following models:
1985 Scrambler Trail Boss
1986 Scrambler
1986 Trail Boss
1986 Scrambler
1986 Trail Boss
1987 Trail Boss
1987 Cyclone
1987 Trail Boss 4x4
1987 Trail Boss 4x4
1987 Trail Boss 4x4
1988 Trail Boss 2x4
1988 Trail Boss 4x4
1988 Trail Boss 250 RIES
1988 Trail Boss 250 RIES
1989 Trail Boss
1989 Trail Boss 2x4
1989 Trail Boss 4x4
1989 Big Boss 4x6
1989 Big Boss 4x6
1990 Trail Blazer
1990 Trail Boss 250
1990 Trail Boss 2x4
1990 Trail Boss 2x4 350L
1990 Trail Boss 4x4
1990 Trail Boss 4x4 350L
1990 Big Boss 4x6
1991 Trail Blazer
1991 Trail Boss 250
1991 Trail Boss 2x4
1991 Trail Boss 2x4 350L
1991 Trail Boss 4x4
1991 Trail Boss 4x4 350L
1991 Big Boss 4x6
1991 Big Boss 6x6
1992 Trail Blazer
1992 Trail Boss 250
1992 Trail Boss 2x4
1992 Trail Boss 2x4 350L
1992 Trail Boss 4x4
1992 Trail Boss 4x4 350L
1992 Big Boss 4x6
1992 Big Boss 6x6
1993 2502x4
1993 3502x4
1993 2504x4
1993 3504x4
1993 Sportsman
1993 2506x6
1993 3506x6
1993 Trail Boss
1993 Trail Blazer
1994 3002x4
1994 4002x4
1994 3004x4
1994 4004x4
1994 3006x6
1994 4006x6
1994 Trail Boss 2W
1994 Trail Blazer 2W
1994 Sportsman 4x4
1994 Sport
1995 3002x4
1995 4002x4
1995 3004x4
1995 Xplorer4x4
1995 4006x6
1995 Trail Boss
1995 Trail Blazer
1995 Sportsman 4x4
1995 Scrambler
1995 Magnum 2x4
1995 Magnum 4x4
1995 Sport
-
-
-
Similar Topics
-
By dctaz37
I recently replaced the oil in my ATV and now I smell oil burning which it didn't before. I used automotive 10w30 full synthetic. I used the same oil on the previous oil change without issue. I had researched the oil before to decide if I needed to pay up for ATV oil and there were many posts that stated automotive synthetic oil would be fine. Now I'm not sure what to do. The only thing I did different this time was replace the filter cartridge rather than clean it and I believe it was the same brand of oil.
-
By Hagbard
Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there...
Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!" and hauled ass to this dude's house with 3 crisp Benjamins to wave under his nose. Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co.
Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional (for long). Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads!
Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it. The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes. Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles.
PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much. And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged. So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery. Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing. Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. put everything back together again, turned the key, got green light, and starter cranked! Then nothing again. Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Thing was full of powdered remains of spade terminals, so I installed a NOS replacement model from RADIO SHACK that had been swimming around in my toolbox for nigh a decade. Sure of my fix, I tried the starter again, and NOTHING again. More fiddling revealed that the OTHER fuse holder (15A) was the same. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good.
Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb!
So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do. I'm thinking maybe he wiped down the OUTSIDE of the thing, and was shocked that it had little to no result. That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match. A quick perusal of the Amazon bargain bin turned up a carb (BST31SS) and non-vacuum petcock for $25, with a caveat that the carb required minor modifications to fit. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins. Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it. Safety first, amirite?
Now with definite spark, and reliable fuel delivery, I started cranking and fiddling with the idle and air screws, managed to get it to fire up - almost literally~ There was a LOT of smoke coming from near the exhaust port on the head, thought I had loose header studs for a minute, then realized it was just more of the old oil mud I had missed while cleaning, burning off between the fins on the head and the exhaust heat shield.
First fire up - lots of smoke
While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little.
Testing reverse
Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Oops. Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Here's the quad, up on the lift, minus the LF wheel (due to a seized cylinder I've since replaced) with range set to HIGH, and Differential Lock engaged. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire Dog under the tire. Again. I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues.
Testing Diff Lock in High Range
Put the wheel cylinder in, (Dorman w38750 for a 1991 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift was a precise fit and only $10) to replace this crusty POS:
put the wheel and hub back together, put seat back on and fired it up. Made sure it would start again after turning it off.
Long Live The King
All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet (it came with a 145 installed, which I swapped out for the 120 OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but 145 seems like a big jump.
I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week. Pretty sure it's going to be yellow, no camo or green bullshit for me thanks Hope you didn't hate my post.
-
By Otter9099
What battery type is best wet cell, agm or lithium? Who makes the most reliable battery for atv's? I need to replace a battery on my qtv. It had a wet cell lead acid. What doe you recomend for a replacement battery that is not a fortune and that is reliable?
-
By PolarisRich
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
[ATTACH]1021[/ATTACH]
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
[ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
[ATTACH]1022[/ATTACH]
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
[ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
[ATTACH]1024[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]1025[/ATTACH]
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
Thanks Rich
-
-
By rocket455
My 1991 polaris trail boss 350L right wheel seems to be engaged while in 2 wheel mode. this causes the steering to pull hard to the right. Anyone know where to start trouble shooting this problem?
-
-
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.